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Showing posts with label Warrane. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Warrane. Show all posts

Friday, March 13, 2020

The Tank Stream – Sydney – From Gadigal Water to Stormwater Drain

Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander readers are advised that this page talks about Aboriginal people who have died, including a burial found beside the Tank Stream, and that some of the old pictures may show people who have died.

If you walk down Pitt Street from Martin Place towards the Quay, you're walking along a creek. You can't see it, you can't hear it, and most of the office workers stepping over it every morning have no idea it's there. But the Tank Stream is the reason Sydney sits where it does. It's the little run of fresh water that made Arthur Phillip pick Sydney Cove in January 1788, it gave the colony its first water supply, it got fouled within a generation, and it ended up as a stone and brick drain under the CBD. It still flows into the harbour at Circular Quay today.

I've written about it a few times over the years, so I've pulled all my Tank Stream posts together into this one page, with my old photos and words, and added a lot more history and pictures.

Tank Stream, Sydney, 1842, sepia watercolour by John Skinner Prout
The Tank Stream in 1842, painted by John Skinner Prout. By then the stream was already more drain than drinking water. John Skinner Prout, State Library of New South Wales, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Before the Tanks: Gadigal Country and Warrane

Long before the First Fleet turned up, this little valley was Gadigal country. The Gadigal (also written Cadigal) are the people most commonly accepted as living around Sydney Cove, and the Tank Stream catchment gave them a bit of everything within a short walk: harbour, estuary, rock platform, creek, open forest and wetland. Sydney Water calls the area by its Aboriginal name, Warrane, and describes the Tank Stream as the main source of fresh water in the Warrane (Circular Quay) area. Nobody knows the stream's own Aboriginal name. The City of Sydney's Barani history site says plainly that it isn't known, but that the stream mattered as drinking water and for everything that grew along it.

Some of that history has survived two hundred years of building. In the late 1990s, archaeologists digging ahead of the Angel Place redevelopment, just north of Martin Place between Pitt and George Streets, found a small patch of soil that dated from before 1788. In it were 54 stone artefacts, most of them less than 2 cm long, the chips left over from making stone tools. As the Barani writers put it, Aboriginal people sat just metres from the Tank Stream and made their tools there. A few more artefacts turned up later further down the stream, along George Street, when the Ivy nightclub site was redeveloped.

People were buried along the stream too. More than a century before the Angel Place dig, workmen building additions to the General Post Office in Martin Place found an Aboriginal skull in the buried banks of the Tank Stream. The papers of the day called a hole in it a spear wound, but Barani notes it could have had a number of causes. What became of the skull isn't known. Back then it was common for Aboriginal remains to be collected or sold to museums and private collectors.

The Stream's Course: From the Swamp to the Cove

The Tank Stream rose in marshy ground roughly bounded by today's Elizabeth, Market, Pitt and Park Streets, just to the west of Hyde Park. According to W. V. Aird's 1961 history of Sydney's water supply, it soaked through the soil between Pitt and George Streets before forming a proper channel near King Street, then ran north to the cove. At high tide it met the harbour at what's now the corner of Bridge and Pitt Streets. Its whole catchment was about 65 hectares, roughly the size of the CBD itself.

You can still feel it in your legs. Barani points out that if you walk west from Macquarie Street down any of the cross streets, the road dips down to where the Tank Stream ran and then climbs again towards George Street. That dip is the valley the whole city is built in.

The stream also split the town in two. The eastern side was kept for the governor, government and administration, and the convicts lived on the western side, out towards the Rocks. That's why Bridge Street, where the crossing was, became the main link between east and west Sydney.

Watercolour of Sydney Cove in 1839 showing the mouth of the Tank Stream
Circular Quay and the mouth of the Tank Stream, Sydney Cove, painted by Frederick Garling Jr. in 1839. Frederick Garling Jr., public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Watercolour view of the Tank Stream, about 1842
A View of Tank Stream, an unknown artist's watercolour from about 1842. Unknown artist, State Library of New South Wales, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

1788: "Near the Run of Fresh Water"

The colony was meant to go to Botany Bay, on the say-so of Sir Joseph Banks, who'd been there with Cook in 1770. When the fleet got there, Phillip found no decent fresh water, so he took boats north looking for something better and found Port Jackson. Cook had sailed past it and named it in 1770 but never gone in.

David Collins, the colony's judge-advocate, wrote the line everyone quotes. The governor's party anchored off the cove on the evening of the 25th of January 1788, and the spot chosen for the camp "was at the head of the cove, near the run of fresh water, which stole silently along through a very thick wood, the stillness of which had then, for the first time since the creation, been interrupted by the rude sound of the labourer's axe".

Collins also gives us the first bridge. In October 1788 "a gang of convicts were employed in rolling timber together, to form a bridge over the stream at the head of the cove". That crossing is where Bridge Street got its name, which Governor Macquarie made official in 1810.

From My 2020 Post: The Tank Stream – Sydney



When Arthur Phillip First Saw What Is Now Circular Quay & The Freshwater Estuary That Ran Into The Quay, He Must’ve Sighed One Of The Biggest Sighs Of Relief, After Being Let Down With What He’d Been Told About Botany Bay, & That The Land Was Fertile. 
Once the First Fleet arrived in Botany Bay, Arthur Phillip was left with no choice but to get in a smaller boat & search the coast to the north, & that’s how they came upon Port Jackson, which had been marked on Captain Cook’s chart from 1770.
 

The Watercourse Named The Tank Stream Was An Important Source Of Fresh Water For Aboriginal People Before European Settlement. As The 19th Century Progressed & The Population Of Sydney Grew, The Tank Stream  Was First Polluted & Then Channeled & Diverted Underground Into A Series Of  Drains & Pipes.
Fifty Four Worked Stone Artefacts Were Discovered In The Late 1990s During Excavations For The Construction Of The City Recital Hall At Angel Place Which Was Built Above A Section Of The Tank Stream.
This Discovery Shows That Aboriginal People Sat Just Metres From The Stream Making Stone Tools.


From My 2016 Post: Tank Stream Bridge & Head of Sydney Cove

Bridge Street, Northern Side, Between George And Pitt Streets







In October 1788 A Timber bridge was built to span the tank stream at this spot, which was then The Head Of Sydney Cove. In 1803–1804 the structure was replaced by a stone bridge. 

When Governor Phillip inspected Port Jackson in January 1788 he was induced to start a settlement there because Of A Rivulet At The Head Of Sydney Cove Where Wild celery parsley & spinach flourished - healthy vegetables for scurvy patients. A Swampy Spring near the western edge of Today's Hyde Park, Was The Birthplace Of This Rivulet, which fell 100 feet as it wandered Eastward Over sandstone Rocks To King Street.  Then nourished by two springs, one at  King Street and another at Spring Street It Flowed to Bridge Street The Head Of The tidal estuary.

To save the life stream, Governor Phillip in March 1788 wisely decreed that 

"the run of water which supplies the settlement was observed to be only a drain from the swamp. To protect it from the sun, the governor forbids the cutting down of any tree within 50 feet of the run, than which there has not been a finer found in any one of the coves of the harbour."

In February 1791 surveyor Alt deepened the stream Near Bridge Street and in April 1792 the governor had ditches dug flanking the rivulet. A paling fence was erected to keep out stock and cherish the shrubs growing on its Bank.

The Rivulet was christened the tank stream in May 1792 after his Excellency had convicts Hew a tank from sandstone which held 8000 gallons of water.

Bridge Street where the Tank Stream turned into the tidal waters Of Sydney Cove became the main link between East and West Sydney. Collins in October 1788 stated that a gang of convicts were employed in rolling timber together to form a bridge over the stream at the head of the Cove. Soon footbridges spanned the rushing waters, followed later by a circular [arched?] bridge. Alas, an overloaded bullock wagon broke through the decking and put the bridge out of action.

The Tanks That Gave the Stream Its Name

The Tank Stream was never much of a river. In dry weather it couldn't keep up, and the early 1790s were dry. So the governor had tanks cut into the sandstone beside the stream to hold water in reserve, and that's where the name comes from.

Collins tells the story as it happened. In late 1791, with the dry weather hurting the water supply, the governor "employed the stone-mason's gang to cut tanks out of the rock, which would be reservoirs for the water large enough to supply the settlement for some time". Then in May 1792 he records that "a tank that would contain about seven thousand nine hundred and ninety-six gallons of water, with a well in the centre fifteen feet deep, was finished, and the water let into it". That's the "8000 gallons" in my older posts.

The State Heritage Register puts the cutting of the tanks in 1790, says there were three or four of them, and gives each one about 20,000 litres and 5 metres deep. The City of Sydney's old water history says three tanks were built during a drought in 1790. Aird places one at what's now the corner of Pitt and Spring Streets, and the other two in Bond Street on the other side of the stream. None of them is thought to have survived. The stretch between Hunter and Bond Streets, where they were, is now a stone arch and a 1962 concrete box under Australia Square.

Keeping the water clean was a battle from day one. Phillip had the stream fenced against stock as early as 1791, and later trenches were cut alongside it to catch the dirty runoff before it got in. The heritage listing says that in 1795 orders were made against grazing stock or cutting trees within about 15 metres of the stream. Collins records that early in 1796 the governor had to repeat in public orders that "when an order was given by him, it was given to be obeyed", because people kept opening the paling fence and dipping dirty vessels in the water above the tanks, "thereby disturbing and polluting the whole stream below".

From My 2015 Post: Tank Stream - Macquarie Street To Circular Quay


In October 1788, a timber bridge was built to span the Tank Stream at this spot, which was then the head of Sydney Cove. In 1803–1804 the structure was replaced by a stone bridge.

When Governor Phillip inspected Port Jackson in January 1788 he was induced to start a settlement there because of the rivulet at The Head Of Sydney Cove, where wild celery, parsley and spinach flourished – healthy vegetables for scurvy patients. A swampy spring, near the western edge of today's Hyde Park, was  the birthplace of this rivulet which fell 100 feet As it wandered Eastward over sandstone rocks to King Street. Then, nourished by two springs, one at King Street and another at Spring Street, it flowed to Bridge Street, the head of the tidal estuary.

To save the life stream, Governor Phillip in March 1788 wisely decreed that "the run of water which supplies the settlement was observed to be only a drain from the swamp. To protect it from the sun, the governor forbids the cutting down of any tree within 50 feet of the run, than which there has not been a finer found in any one of the coves of the harbour."

In February 1791 surveyor Alt deepened the stream near Bridge Street, and in April 1792 the governor had ditches dug flanking The Rivulet. A Paling fence was erected to keep out stock and cherish the shrubs growing on its banks. The rivulet was christened the tank stream in May 1792 after his Excellency had convicts hew a tank from sandstone which held 8000 gallons of water. Bridge St where the tank stream debouched into the tidal waters of Sydney Cove, became the main link between eastern and western Sydney. Collins in October 1788 Stated that a gang Of convicts were employed in rolling timber together to form a bridge over the stream at the head of the Cove. Soon footbridges spanned the [unfinished – John to complete]

From Drinking Water to Open Sewer

As the town grew, so did the mess. More houses, more animals, more cleared land and fewer trees meant more runoff, and it carried human and animal waste and household rubbish straight into the stream. Aird says it was little more than an open sewer for about ten years before it was finally abandoned as a water supply in 1826. The heritage listing says Governor Brisbane disallowed it for drinking that year, and that Governor Darling had seven wells dug around the town and people put to work fixing the drains.

The answer to the water problem was Busby's Bore, John Busby's tunnel carrying water from the Lachlan Swamps (now Centennial Park) to Hyde Park. Convicts started digging it in September 1827. It began supplying drinkable water in 1830 but wasn't finished until 1837.

Standpipe for Busby's Bore at Hyde Park in 1857
The standpipe for Busby's Bore near the corner of Elizabeth and Market Streets, Hyde Park, in 1857. The Bore took over from the Tank Stream as the town's water supply. Attributed to Charles Woolcott, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Section of old wooden water pipe from Busby's Bore
A section of wooden pipe from Busby's Bore, on display at the Powerhouse Museum. Mx. Granger, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

With the drinking water gone elsewhere, the Tank Stream became the town's drain. The heritage listing says it was an unofficial sewer by 1826 and an official one by 1857, emptying straight into the harbour at the Quay. Around 1850, when Semi-Circular Quay was built, the stream had to be extended north of Bridge Street to reach the new waterline. The swamp that fed it was drained around 1850, according to a 1953 Sunday Herald article cited by Wikipedia, and the new Bennelong sewer works of 1857 drained it further. With less clean water flushing it, the Tank Stream got even filthier. Until 1888 it also carried salt water, which the council stored in reservoirs for cleaning the streets and keeping down the dust.

Engraving titled The Old Tank Stream, Sydney, 1873
"The Old Tank Stream, Sydney", an engraving published in 1873, looking back to the days before it was covered over. Booth (1873), public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The 1860s Drain and the Stormwater Channel

The smell is what finally got the stream covered. In the late 1850s work started on roofing the Bridge Street to Hunter Street section, and the sandstone arch over it was built in 1860. The heritage listing describes the channel as part stone and part brick in its lower half, with a sandstone arch roof. In 1866 the section from just south of Hunter Street to Martin Place was built as an open stone channel, and it was roofed over in the 1870s. Through the late 1870s the City Council kept going. A brick egg-shaped ("oviform") sewer went in from Pitt Street to Bridge Street in 1878, through what had been private land, and in 1879 the Bridge to Hunter Street floor was relaid in mortar with a terracotta scouring channel down the middle. By 1880 brick had reached the full width of King Street.

What's down there now is a patchwork of almost two hundred years of plumbing. According to the heritage listing, the old fabric survives from King Street, between Pitt and George, all the way to Circular Quay. There are 1866 brick drains enclosed in 1876 near King Street and between Martin Place and Angel Place. A historic oviform sewer runs towards the old GPO. Under Australia Square there's a semicircular stone arch with a shallow V-shaped floor, then a concrete box put in when the Square was built in 1962. Between Abercrombie Lane and Bridge Street there's a stone arch from about 1860. From Bridge Street the stream turns to run under Pitt Street for the last 185 metres to the Quay. A lot of the channel was replaced with modern pipe after the Second World War, when little thought went into its history, under the GPO in 1940, behind Pitt Street in 1958 and 1962, at Australia Square in 1965, at the old GPO site in 2001 and at Angel Place in 2002.

Today the Tank Stream is a stormwater channel looked after by Sydney Water, and it's on the NSW State Heritage Register, listed on 2 April 1999. Between 2024 and 2027 Sydney Water is restoring the old culvert under First Fleet Park at Circular Quay, and for a while you could actually see a bit of it from the street.

Brick-lined arched tunnel of the Tank Stream underground
A brick-lined section of the Tank Stream, photographed on a tour in November 2008. Shermozle, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Underground stone channel of the Tank Stream with water running through it
Inside the Tank Stream on a November 2008 tour. Shermozle, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Construction site at First Fleet Park exposing the Tank Stream culvert
Sydney Water's restoration works at First Fleet Park, Circular Quay, in June 2026, when a rare stretch of the Tank Stream culvert was opened to view. Aebion, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Tank Stream Way

Up above, the stream has left its name on a little laneway off Bridge Street. The heritage listing says the 40-metre stretch of channel between Abercrombie Lane and Bridge Street is a stone arch from about 1860, and that "on the ground here, Tank Stream Way preserves the name of the stream". Here's what I wrote about it in my laneways series.

From My 2020 Post: Tank Stream Way - Laneways - Sydney - NSW


Tank Stream Way Was Once Part Of Hamilton Street Which Ran Between Bridge And Hunter Streets, Named After Hamilton's Biscuit Factory. Most Of It Disappeared Underneath The Australia Square Development, Leaving Two Remnant Laneways, And This Section Was Renamed In 1981. In Bridge Lane, Once The Site Of The Town’s First Lumber Yards, Look For The Old Warehouse Doorway, Now The Entrance To The Establishment Hotel. As Late As The 1860s There Was Still Vacant Land Sliced Between The Cottages In This Area, But By The End Of The 19th Century It Had Become A Favoured Location for Warehouses, Including Several Tea Merchants Stores. 

Tank Stream Way laneway between city buildings in Sydney
Tank Stream Way seen from the south-east, April 2024. Ymblanter, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

You can read the whole laneway post here: Tank Stream Way - Laneways - Sydney - New South Wales.

The Tank Stream Fountain

The best-known memorial to the stream is down at Herald Square, on the corner of George and Alfred Streets near Circular Quay. The Tank Stream Fountain is a cascading fountain by the sculptor Stephen Walker, with four bronze columns rising out of the pool. All over it are Australian plants and animals, frogs, snakes, goannas, echidnas, crabs, birds and tortoises, that look like they're playing in the water. The kids love it, which is the whole idea. It's also known as the Children's Fountain, dedicated to "all the children who have played around the Tank Stream".

The fountain was a present from John Fairfax & Sons, publishers of the Sydney Morning Herald, to mark 150 years since the first Sydney Herald came out on 18 April 1831. The City of Sydney accepted the offer on 25 June 1979. It was the biggest private gift the city had ever had at that point. The council was already planning to tidy up the streetscape, so the extra work went onto its existing contract with Melocco Bros. The extra landscaping cost $356,154.50, subsidised down to $183,495.50, and the paper matched that and paid for the sculpture as well. The Lord Mayor dedicated the fountain on 16 April 1981.

Walker's brief from Fairfax was "to create an association of water and bronze", and he tied it to the Tank Stream, the settlement's first water supply. Walker was born in Melbourne in 1927, studied painting in Melbourne and Hobart, and started making sculpture in 1952. In the 1950s and 60s he studied in England, Rome, Florence and Prague before coming home in 1964. The fountain is heritage-listed in its own right, and the City of Sydney started cleaning and conserving the bronzes in September 2026, with the work expected to take about two months.

Bronze Tank Stream Fountain in Herald Square, Sydney
The Tank Stream Fountain in Herald Square, by Stephen Walker, 1981. Whiteghost.ink, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Detail of bronze native animals on the Tank Stream Fountain
Close up, the native animals look like they're playing in the pools. Whiteghost.ink, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Bronze lizard on the Tank Stream Fountain
A bronze lizard on the fountain. Tony Hisgett, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Tank Stream Fountain at Circular Quay in 2012
The fountain in 2012. Sardaka, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Herald Square in Sydney with the Tank Stream Fountain
Herald Square, with the fountain at its centre, in 2023. -wuppertaler, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Bronze sculptures of the Tank Stream Fountain, Herald Square
Another view of the fountain and its bronze creatures, 2023. -wuppertaler, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Plaques, the Tours and Where to See It

The fountain carries its own plaques. One, on the western front, explains how Walker drew on the spot's history. Another says the fountain and the landscaping of the square were donated "for the pleasure and enjoyment of citizens and visitors" by John Fairfax & Sons. The City of Sydney's record of the inscriptions includes a little potted history that starts with 1788: "A stream flows into Sydney Cove. The European settlement of Australia begins along its sandstone banks. Soon drought strikes and storage tanks are carved from the stone, hence the name."

Tank Stream Fountain with commemorative plaque
The fountain and one of its plaques, 2018. Collywolly, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Plaque commemorating the Tank Stream, Alfred Street, Circular Quay
The plaque near the fountain commemorating the Tank Stream, which gave the first European settlement its water. Collywolly, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

If you want to actually get down there, Sydney Living Museums and Sydney Water have run Tank Stream tours, usually in April and November. Tickets are limited and handed out by ballot, so you need a bit of luck. The way in is through the basement of the Australia Square tower, which is also Sydney Water's inspection point, and there's an information area behind locked gates at the start of the tour. If you miss out, Barani says there's a small Tank Stream exhibition in the basement of the old General Post Office in Martin Place, with an excavated piece of the original brick oviform drain. You go in directly under the clock tower. Otherwise just follow the street names, the artwork and the pub names, and the dip in the road, from Hunter Street down Pitt Street to the Quay.

Timeline

  • Before 1788 – Gadigal people use the stream for water and resources; stone tools are made on its banks (Angel Place site).
  • January 1788 – The First Fleet moves from Botany Bay to Sydney Cove; the camp is set up "near the run of fresh water".
  • October 1788 – Convicts roll timber together to form the first bridge over the stream at the head of the cove.
  • 1790 – The heritage listing and the City of Sydney date the cutting of the tanks to a 1790 drought.
  • 1791 – The stream is fenced against stock; Collins says the stonemasons were cutting tanks in late 1791.
  • May 1792 – Collins records a tank of about 7,996 gallons, with a well 15 feet deep, finished and filled.
  • 1795–96 – Orders against grazing and tree-cutting near the stream; people still fouling the water above the tanks.
  • 1803–04 – A stone bridge replaces the timber one at Bridge Street (according to my older posts).
  • 1810 – Macquarie names Bridge Street.
  • 1826 – The stream is abandoned as drinking water; Darling has seven wells dug.
  • 1827–1837 – Busby's Bore is built; it supplies water from 1830.
  • c.1850 – Semi-Circular Quay is built and the stream is extended north of Bridge Street; the source swamp is drained.
  • 1857 – The Tank Stream becomes an official sewer.
  • 1860 – The sandstone arch between Bridge and Hunter Streets is built.
  • 1866–1880 – Open stone and brick channels are built and roofed over; brick oviform sewers go in.
  • 1888 – Salt water stops being carried in the stream for street cleaning.
  • 1962–1965 – Concrete box replaces the channel under Australia Square; tour access is built there.
  • 16 April 1981 – The Tank Stream Fountain is dedicated in Herald Square; Hamilton Street's remnant becomes Tank Stream Way the same year.
  • Late 1990s – The Angel Place dig finds 54 Aboriginal stone artefacts beside the stream.
  • 2 April 1999 – The Tank Stream is added to the NSW State Heritage Register.
  • 2024–2027 – Sydney Water restores the culvert under First Fleet Park.
  • September 2026 – Conservation work starts on the fountain's bronzes.

Where the Sources Disagree

  • When the tanks were cut: the State Heritage Register and the City of Sydney say 1790. Collins has the stonemasons cutting tanks in late 1791 and the first one finished in May 1792. My older posts say the stream was "christened" in May 1792.
  • How big the tanks were: Collins gives about 7,996 gallons for the May 1792 tank, which is roughly 36,000 litres. The heritage listing gives about 20,000 litres for each of three or four tanks. These may not be measuring the same thing.
  • How many tanks there were: the City of Sydney and Aird say three, and the heritage listing says three or four.
  • The stone bridge: my older posts date the stone bridge at Bridge Street to 1803–04. The heritage listing (as quoted on Wikipedia) says a stone arch bridge replaced the wooden ones in 1792, and its own timeline lists the "first bridge crossing" in 1792, even though Collins describes a timber bridge in October 1788.
  • When it stopped being drinking water: Aird says it was abandoned in 1826 after about ten years as an open sewer, and the heritage listing has Brisbane disallowing it in 1826 but says it was the main source of fresh water until Busby's Bore was finished in 1837.
  • Busby's Bore: Aird (as cited on Wikipedia) dates the next supply to 1830, when the Bore started giving water, and the heritage listing says the Tank Stream was the main supply until the Bore was finished in 1837.
  • Tree-cutting order: my older posts quote an order of March 1788 against cutting trees within 50 feet of the stream. The heritage listing has the order in 1795, at about 15 metres. I couldn't find the 1788 wording in a source I could open.
  • The Angel Place dig: my 2020 post says 1996. Barani says the late 1990s, and the University of Sydney catalogues the reports as the "Angel Place Project 1997".

My Earlier Posts

Sources

  • David Collins, An Account of the English Colony in New South Wales, Vol. 1 (1798), Project Gutenberg: https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/12565
  • NSW State Heritage Register, Tank Stream (SHR 00636), as reproduced in Wikipedia, "Tank Stream" (CC BY): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tank_Stream
  • W. V. Aird, The Water Supply, Sewerage and Drainage of Sydney (MWS&DB, 1961), as cited in Wikipedia, "Tank Stream"
  • City of Sydney, "Tank Stream Fountain": https://www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/fountains-and-water-features/tank-stream-fountain
  • Paul Irish and Tamika Goward, "The Tank Stream", Sydney Barani (City of Sydney): https://www.sydneybarani.com.au/sites/the-tank-stream/
  • Sydney Water, "Circular Quay Tank Stream work": https://www.sydneywater.com.au/water-the-environment/what-we-are-doing/projects-in-your-area/circular-quay-pump-station-and-tank-stream-work.html
  • Wikipedia, "Busby's Bore": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Busby%27s_Bore
  • Wikipedia, "Bridge Street, Sydney": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridge_Street,_Sydney
  • Wikipedia, "Port Jackson": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_Jackson
  • University of Sydney Library, Godden Mackay, Angel Place Project 1997 Archaeological Excavation Final Report, Vol. 1 (1998): https://digital.library.sydney.edu.au/nodes/view/9364
  • Pictures: Wikimedia Commons, Category:Tank Stream and Category:Busby's Bore (credits under each picture)

Thursday, December 8, 2016

Customs House – 31 Alfred Street – Circular Quay – Sydney Cove – From Warrane to the City Library












Customs House 

Customs House on Alfred Street today, looking across from the Quay
Customs House on Alfred Street today, looking across from the Quay. Enoch Lau, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons


Built - 1843 - 1845
Architect - Mortimer Lewis - Colonial Architect 
Additional Architects - 
1887 - James Barnet - Colonial Architect 
1896 - Walter Liberty Vernon - Government Architect
1915  - George Oakeshott

Sydney's Customs House At Circular Quay Occupies A Unique Symbolic Place On The Site Of The First Fleet Landing In 1788. Today Its Location Is A Physical Reminder Of The Importance Of Circular Quay As The Original Maritime Centre Of The Colony, And The Colony's reliance On Trade. Its Renewal Over The Decades Also Embodies The Work Of Three Government Architects

The Customs Service Was Responsible For All Imports And Exports, Excise On Local Goods, Immigration Control, And Control Of Narcotic Substances And Morally Corrupt Goods (Such As Books And Films)
By 1844, With Sydney's Maritime Trade Booming, The Existing Customs Building In The Rocks Was Packed To The Rafters. This Prompted Governor Sir George Gipps To Commission A New 2 Storey Georgian Building, Designed By Colonial Architect Mortimer Lewis, With A Facade That Included 13 Large Windows Offering Commanding Views of Shipping Activity In Sydney Cove. 


In 1887, The Building Was Partly Dismantled And Expanded To Three Levels By Colonial Architect James Barnet. It was Further Expanded In 1896 By Government Architect Walter Liberty Vernon, Who Staged Alterations Adding Two New Levels And A Rear Wing In The Courtyard. In 1915, Architect George Oakeshott Added A New Framed Internal Structure That Opened Up The Ground Floor With An Atrium. 

Despite These Later Additions During World War 1, Significant Parts Of The Original Building Remain Today, Having Been In Continuous Use For 145 Years As Headquarters For The Customs Service Right Up Until 1990. in 2003 The Historic Building Became The Venue For The City Of Sydney Library, Along With restaurants, Bars And Offices. 

There Is A Scale Model Of Sydney's CBD, Under A Glass Floor In The Ground Floor Foyer. At A Scale Of 1:500, It Covers Around 10 Square Kilometres Of The City And Includes More Than 1000 Detailed Buildings, As Well As 5000 Trees, And People, And Cars And Boats 



















































The 6 Storey Building Evolved  through Several Phases Of Expansion  Between 1845 & 1917. 

On Loftus Street Alongside Customs House, A Union Jack Flies Permanently On The Site Where The British Flag Was First Raised On January 26th 1788. For Some Australians, This Is The Site Of The Invasion. 




Customs House in Sydney, Australia, is an iconic heritage building that has played a significant role in the city's history. It has served various functions over the years and stands as a symbol of maritime trade, cultural engagement, and architectural beauty. Here's a comprehensive overview of its history:

Early History:

  • The original Customs House on the site was constructed in the early 19th century. It served as a customs and maritime office to regulate trade and collect taxes on imports and exports.

Construction of the Current Building:

  • The present-day Customs House building was constructed between 1843 and 1845, designed by colonial architect Mortimer Lewis as a simple two-storey building in the Georgian / Greek Revival style.
  • Its long front had thirteen large windows looking out over the shipping in Sydney Cove; the portico at the front was added later by James Barnet in the 1880s.

Function as Customs Office:

  • The new Customs House continued to serve as a hub for customs and maritime operations, facilitating trade and overseeing shipping activities in Sydney Harbour.

Expansions and Additions:

  • Over the years, Customs House underwent expansions and additions to accommodate its growing functions and staff.
  • In the late 19th century, additional wings were added to the building to accommodate increased maritime activity.

Cultural Role and Transformation:

  • In the 20th century, as shipping and customs operations moved to other locations, Customs House underwent a transformation into a cultural and public space.
  • Customs moved out in 1990, and in 1996–97 the building was renovated and repurposed as a multi-purpose cultural and exhibition venue.

City of Sydney Library:

  • Customs House houses the City of Sydney Library, offering a range of books, resources, and services to the public.
  • The library features modern amenities while preserving the building's historical features.

Civic and Cultural Events:

  • Customs House is also used as a venue for various civic and cultural events, exhibitions, and lectures.

Heritage Status:

  • Customs House is recognized as a heritage-listed building, reflecting its historical, architectural, and cultural significance.

Customs House stands as a reminder of Sydney's maritime heritage and its transition from a functional government building to a dynamic cultural center. Its architectural beauty, versatile functions, and central location have made it a focal point of Sydney's urban landscape and cultural life

More On Customs House – Filling In The Story

I've walked past Customs House more times than I can count, usually on the way to a ferry, so I thought it was time to dig a bit deeper. Here's what I found.

Gadigal Country And Warrane

Long before any customs men turned up, this was Gadigal country. The cove the British called Sydney Cove is Warrane (Dharug), and Wikipedia's Customs House article notes that Eora people are said to have watched the First Fleet land here in 1788. The NSW State Heritage Register listing goes further and records the site's significance "as the initial point of European invasion of the lands of Aboriginal people". The building also sits on reclaimed land straddling the old high-water mark, so the shoreline the Gadigal knew ran right through where the foyer is now (Dictionary of Sydney).

The First Customs Men

According to Laila Ellmoos in the Dictionary of Sydney, customs duties were first collected in NSW in 1799, first by the Registrar of Imports and Exports and then by the Naval Officer until 1827. That year customs came under the London Board of Commissioners of Customs, and the NSW Customs Regulation Act of 1830 paved the way for a proper Customs House. From 1830 the customs offices were squeezed into the Argyle Stores in The Rocks. Wikipedia, on the other hand, says the first customs house was built in 1800, at or near the landing and flag-raising spot.

Colonel Gibbes, Governor Gipps And The 1845 Building

The driving force was Colonel John George Nathaniel Gibbes, Collector of Customs for a record 25 years (1834–1859). He talked Governor Sir George Gipps into building, and the job doubled as unemployment relief for stonemasons and labourers during the 1840s depression. Gibbes lived across the water at Wotonga (today's Admiralty House) and could watch the work from his verandah (Wikipedia). Mortimer Lewis designed a two-storey building with thirteen big windows looking over the cove; Wikipedia calls it Georgian, the Dictionary of Sydney calls it a simple Greek Revival building. It opened in 1845.

It wasn't a comfy posting. Staff complained bitterly that it was cold and damp because it sat on reclaimed land, repair bills climbed through the 1860s and 1870s, and by the early 1880s it was falling apart and bursting at the seams (Dictionary of Sydney). Bonded goods went into the Queen's Warehouse in the south-east corner of the grounds, with stables and staff quarters out the back.

Customs House before the upper storey was added, from the State Library of NSW collection
Customs House before the upper storey was added, from the State Library of NSW collection. Photographic Collection from Australia, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

James Barnet Rebuilds It

Colonial Architect James Barnet took it on in the 1880s. The NSW Heritage Register puts the work at 1885–1887: the old building was partly pulled down and rebuilt to three storeys with side wings, making a U-shape. Barnet kept the central wing, added east and west wings, lifted it a level and put a portico on the front. The Dictionary of Sydney reckons it was in effect a reconstruction, with only the Long Room surviving from Lewis's building. Wikipedia also mentions two new wings built 1883–1889 for the Shipping Office and Marine Board.

Customs House around 1900, after Barnet's rebuild and before Vernon's top floors were finished
Customs House around 1900, after Barnet's rebuild and before Vernon's top floors were finished. Powerhouse Museum Collection, no known copyright restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons

Vernon, Federation And Oakeshott

Government Architect Walter Liberty Vernon added two floors and a rear courtyard wing in two stages between 1896 and 1903, turning the plan into an E-shape, partly to house the Land and Income Tax Office. With Federation in 1901, customs became a Commonwealth job and the building became the NSW headquarters of the new Department of Trade and Customs. Then in 1915–17 George Oakeshott replaced everything inside the U with a steel frame, opened up the ground floor around a light well, and added a sixth storey for the caretaker (Heritage Register via Wikipedia).

The remodelled Customs House, about 1904, once Vernon's extra floors were on
The remodelled Customs House, about 1904, once Vernon's extra floors were on. State Records NSW, no known copyright restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons
Customs House decorated for the 1908 visit of the United States fleet, from a coloured postcard
Customs House decorated for the 1908 visit of the United States fleet, from a coloured postcard. Australian National Maritime Museum on The Commons, no known copyright restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons
Customs House in 1913, with the Quay's wharves and trams out the front
Customs House in 1913, with the Quay's wharves and trams out the front. Unknown photographer, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Circular Quay from the air, 1924–25, with Customs House set back behind the wharves
Circular Quay from the air, 1924–25, with Customs House set back behind the wharves. Unknown photographer, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Customs Moves Out And The Library Moves In

Customs did its last day's work here on 15 June 1990. The City of Sydney took it on (leased in 1990 according to the Dictionary of Sydney; ownership transferred in 1994 according to Wikipedia). A conservation and refurbishment project opened in June 1997, more work in 1999 made it a "tourism gateway" for the Olympics, and Customs House Square was laid out out the front by closing part of Alfred Street. The main City of Sydney Library moved here from Town Hall after a 2003 refit.

The atrium inside the City of Sydney library, the light well opened up by Oakeshott in 1915–17
The atrium inside the City of Sydney library, the light well opened up by Oakeshott in 1915–17. Wpcpey, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The City Under Your Feet

The best bit for me is the model. Wikipedia says it's 4.2 by 9.5 metres, weighs a tonne and was built by Modelcraft in 1998, installed during the 1999 refit and put back under the glass floor in 2003. Kids love it and so do I – you can usually find your own office.

The 1:500 model of the city under the glass floor in the foyer
The 1:500 model of the city under the glass floor in the foyer. Jason7825, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Flagpole In Loftus Street

I checked my earlier line about the Union Jack. The flagpole on its sandstone plinth in Loftus Street says it marks "the location at which the first ceremony of saluting the flag by Captain Arthur Phillip R.N. and his company took place to mark the foundation of Australia on 26th January 1788". The plaque was unveiled by Governor Sir James Rowland on 26 January 1988 for the Bicentenary (Monument Australia; SMH, 14 July 2022). A 1964 SMH clipping in the City of Sydney Archives put the first flag "50 ft south of" Customs House's north-western corner. The flag flown is a replica of the 1788 Union Flag, and the City keeps it up all year. But historians Michael Flynn and Gary Sturgess argued in a 2014 RAHS paper that the landing was on the west side of the cove, near the Bethel Steps in The Rocks, and the Fellowship of First Fleeters' Jon Fearon told the SMH the flagpole is "in the wrong place". So it's the traditional site, not a settled one.

Loftus Street beside Customs House, where the flagpole stands
Loftus Street beside Customs House, where the flagpole stands. -wuppertaler, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Ghosts And Gossip

Wikipedia records that convict David O'Connor was hanged on the site in 1790, and the story goes his ghost still wanders Customs House offering people rum. I can't vouch for that one.

Timeline

  • Before 1788 – Warrane, in Gadigal country
  • 26 Jan 1788 – British flag raised at Sydney Cove; Loftus St is the traditional site
  • 1790 – Convict David O'Connor hanged on the site (Wikipedia)
  • 1799 – First customs duties collected in NSW
  • 1800 – First customs house built, per Wikipedia
  • 1830 – Customs Regulation Act; offices in the Argyle Stores, The Rocks
  • 1834–1859 – Col. John Gibbes is Collector of Customs
  • 1843/1844 – Building starts (sources differ)
  • 1845 – Mortimer Lewis's Customs House opens
  • 1885–1887 – James Barnet's rebuild to three storeys, U-plan
  • 1896–1903 – W.L. Vernon adds two floors and rear wing
  • 1901 – Customs goes federal
  • 1915–1917 – George Oakeshott's steel frame, light well and sixth storey
  • 1988 – Flagpole plaque unveiled for the Bicentenary
  • 15 June 1990 – Customs leaves the building
  • 1994 – Ownership to City of Sydney (Wikipedia)
  • June 1997 – Restored building reopens
  • 1998–1999 – City model built and installed
  • 1999 – State Heritage Register listing (2 April)
  • 2003 – City of Sydney Library moves in
  • 2004 – Commonwealth Heritage List (22 June)

Where The Sources Disagree

  • When building started: 1843 (Dictionary of Sydney, which I've followed above) or 1844 (Wikipedia).
  • The first customs house: Wikipedia says one was built in 1800 near the landing site; the Dictionary of Sydney says the first dedicated offices were in the Argyle Stores from 1830.
  • Style of Lewis's building: "Georgian" (Wikipedia/Heritage Register) versus "Greek Revival" (Dictionary of Sydney). Both agree it was a plain two-storey building; the portico came later with Barnet.
  • When customs left: Wikipedia's intro says head office use ran until 1988, with customs relocating in 1990; the body says 15 June 1990. Either way, the cultural-venue refit came later, in 1996–97.
  • The City's takeover: leased in 1990 (Dictionary of Sydney) or ownership transferred in 1994 (Wikipedia).
  • Library opening: 2003 (Wikipedia, and my post) versus 2005 (Dictionary of Sydney).
  • Barnet's dates: 1887 (my post, Wikipedia history), 1885–1887 (Heritage Register), wings 1883–1889 (Wikipedia).
  • The flag site: Loftus Street (plaque, 1964 SMH clipping) versus Bethel Steps on the west side of the cove (Flynn & Sturgess 2014, via SMH 2022).

My Earlier Posts

Sources