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Showing posts with label Botany Bay. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Botany Bay. Show all posts

Sunday, October 18, 2026

Pemulwuy – Bidjigal Resistance Leader of Botany Bay and Parramatta – The 'Rainbow Warrior' and the Search for His Head in England – c.1750 to 1802

Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander readers are advised that this page contains the names and images of people who have died, as well as descriptions of violence and the treatment of human remains. Some quotes from colonial records use language of their time.

For a long time Pemulwuy hardly rated a mention in Sydney's history books. Yet for twelve years, from 1790 to 1802, this Bidjigal man led the fight against the new settlement, from Botany Bay to the farms at Parramatta, Toongabbie, Prospect and the Hawkesbury. He was shot and taken prisoner, and he escaped in irons. In the end he was shot dead, and his head was cut off, put in spirits and shipped to England for Sir Joseph Banks. More than two hundred years later, nobody knows where it is.

This is his story, as best the records let us tell it. Most of what we know comes from the people who were trying to catch or kill him, so I've tried to say who said what. I've also tried to sort out the "Rainbow Warrior" name, which a lot of people think is a traditional title. It isn't. It's the title of a 1987 novel.

Engraving of Pimbloy, Native of New Holland in a canoe, 1803
'Pimbloy: Native of New Holland in a Canoe of that Country', engraved after a lost drawing by James Grant, 1803. It's thought it may show Pemulwuy, but nobody can be sure. James Grant (engraved by Samuel John Neele), 1803, State Library of NSW, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Bidjigal Country – Botany Bay and the Georges River

Pemulwuy was born around 1750 near what the British later called Botany Bay, on the northern side of the Georges River. That's according to J. L. Kohen in the Australian Dictionary of Biography. He spoke a dialect of the Darug (Dharug) language. The ADB says his name came from the Darug word pemul, meaning earth. Keith Vincent Smith, writing in the Dictionary of Sydney, gives it as Pemall (bimul), meaning earth or clay. The colonists spelled it every which way: Pemulwhy, Pemulwoy, Pimbloy, Bimblewove and Bumbleway are a few of them.

His people were the Bidjigal (also written Bediagal). Smith describes their country as stretching "from Botany Bay south of the Cooks River and west along the Georges River to Salt Pan Creek, south of Bankstown". Bidjigal, he says, literally means "River Flat Clan". He also notes there was a second Bidjigal clan around today's Castle Hill. According to Colebee and Ballooderry, speaking in 1791, that clan had been wiped out by smallpox.

View across Botany Bay from Inscription Point
Looking across Botany Bay (Kamay) from Inscription Point. Pemulwuy's Bidjigal country ran from the bay along the Georges River. Philip Terry Graham, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The colonists usually lumped Pemulwuy in with the "woods tribes" or "wood natives", people who lived inland rather than on the harbour. David Collins, the Judge Advocate, wrote of an attack in 1793 by people of "the Hunter's or Woodman's tribe, people who seldom came among us, and who consequently were little known".

Bush and sandstone on the Cape Baily Track, Kamay Botany Bay National Park
Sandstone heath on the Cape Baily Track, Kamay Botany Bay National Park. Maksym Kozlenko, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Salt Pan Creek walk at Padstow
Salt Pan Creek at Padstow, the western edge of Bidjigal country as Keith Vincent Smith describes it. Adam.J.W.C., CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Man With the Marked Eye

The British first heard of Pemulwuy in October 1790. Bennelong asked a marine sergeant and his men, who were out looking for a missing convict, to join a war party to kill him. Bennelong told Governor Phillip that Pemulwuy, then about 30, was "well known for having lost an eye" and led a clan at Botany Bay. Captain Watkin Tench put it a bit differently: "a young man, with a speck, or blemish on his left eye".

The other thing people noticed was his foot. Colebee, the Cadigal headman, told Phillip that Pemulwuy was easy to pick because a club had bruised the toes of his left foot. The ADB says his left foot "had been clubbed", which suggested he was a carradhy, a clever man. The National Museum of Australia explains that this wasn't a club foot in the modern medical sense of something you're born with. Colebee said it had been done to him on purpose with a club, and it marked his standing as a carradhy, a man with special powers. Smith says there's evidence Pemulwuy could heal wounds. He also points out that kadaicha men in Central Australia dislocate their small toes so they can travel quickly and quietly to take revenge on an enemy.

Pemulwuy was no simple enemy of Bennelong's either. Smith argues that Bennelong and Colebee, looking back, seem to have worked with him. In November 1790 Pemulwuy stayed for two weeks in Bennelong's brick hut on Bennelong Point. Phillip himself noted that a Botany Bay man had slept at Bennelong's hut for more than a fortnight, "though [Bennelong] said the man was bad, and spoke of him as his enemy".

Sydney Cove, Port Jackson, 1788, watercolour by William Bradley
Sydney Cove in 1788, painted by William Bradley of the First Fleet. William Bradley, Mitchell Library, State Library of NSW, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Spearing of John McEntire – December 1790

John McEntire (also spelt McIntyre) was a convict and Governor Phillip's gamekeeper, one of three armed convicts sent out to shoot game for the hungry colony. The Eora people feared and hated him. Collins wrote that McEntire "had been suspected of having wantonly killed or wounded several of the natives in the course of his excursions after game". Smith adds that he was trespassing on Bidjigal land and shooting animals that were totems and spirit ancestors, like possum, kangaroo, emu and dingo.

On 10 December 1790, McEntire was resting with a shooting party near the Cooks River when they heard something in the bush. Tench's account, quoted on Wikipedia, says they saw men with spears creeping towards them. McEntire said, "Don't be afraid, I know them", laid down his gun and walked forward talking to them in their own language. He followed them for about a hundred yards, chatting the whole way. Then one of them jumped onto a fallen tree and threw his spear, which lodged in McEntire's left side. Tench wrote that the man had "a speck or blemish on his left eye", and that he'd clearly been in the settlement lately because he was freshly shaved. "I am a dead man," McEntire cried.

Surgeon John White found the spearhead had gone into McEntire's lung and was barbed with "small pieces of red stone". The ADB says those red stone barbs confirmed that the thrower was a Bidjigal man. Other Aboriginal people in the settlement told the surgeons it was "Pemullaway, of the tribe of Bejigal". McEntire hung on for weeks and died on 20 January 1791.

The Cooks River at Canterbury
The Cooks River at Canterbury. John McEntire was speared near the Cooks River in December 1790. David Latimer, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Phillip's Punitive Expeditions

The National Museum says Phillip had been fairly tolerant up to then, even though he'd been speared himself at Manly Cove a few months earlier. This time he was furious, because he believed McEntire had been unarmed and the attack was unprovoked. Tench's own account, as summarised on Wikipedia, says Phillip first ordered ten Bidjigal men killed and their heads brought back, and two more captured. Tench talked him down to taking six prisoners. Smith, in the Dictionary of Sydney, describes the orders as killing six men and capturing two for execution. Wikipedia calls it the biggest military operation since the colony was founded. About 50 marines marched out under Tench on 14 December 1790, carrying hatchets and bags for heads.

They never found anybody. On the second day they met Colebee at Botany Bay, who told them Pemulwuy had gone south and was a long way off. As Smith puts it: "The expedition was a failure, and a second one was a farce."

Portrait of Captain Arthur Phillip by Francis Wheatley, 1786
Captain Arthur Phillip, painted by Francis Wheatley in 1786. After McEntire was speared, Phillip sent out the colony's first punitive expedition. Francis Wheatley, State Library of NSW ML 124, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Portrait miniature of a Marine officer, possibly Watkin Tench
A Marine officer, possibly Watkin Tench, c.1795. Tench described Pemulwuy's eye and led the hunt that never found him. Attributed to Frederick Buck, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Twelve Years of Resistance – Prospect, Toongabbie, Parramatta and the Hawkesbury

From 1792, Pemulwuy led raids on the settlers at Prospect, Toongabbie, the Georges River, Parramatta, Brickfield Hill and the Hawkesbury River. According to the National Museum of Australia, the first was at Prospect in May 1792. The Bidjigal burnt huts, took maize crops and attacked travellers, and the farms they hit were right on their own land. The National Museum calls it an attempt to stop the farming settlements from taking hold. By April 1794 the fighting between Aboriginal people and the farmers was "frequent and extensive". In what the National Museum calls the "Battle of Toongabbie", a European reprisal party cut off the head of a warrior they'd killed and carried it back to Sydney as proof.

Collins called Pemulwuy "a most active enemy to the settlers, plundering them of their property, and endangering their personal safety". But Collins was also honest enough to say that most of the attacks came from the settlers' "own misconduct", including the kidnapping of Aboriginal children. The ADB notes the raids were mostly for food, especially corn, or were payback.

Even in the middle of all this, Pemulwuy could walk into Sydney. In January 1795 Collins recorded that "Pe-mul-wy, a wood native, and many strangers, came in" to an initiation ceremony at Farm Cove, where Pemulwuy acted as sponsor for one of the youths. Nobody tried to arrest him. That May his followers wounded a convict near the Brickfields, around today's Chippendale. In December 1795 a story went around that John Caesar, the African convict known as "Black Caesar", had killed Pemulwuy. Smith says it turned out to be false. Runaway convicts were joining him by then, and the government issued a proclamation calling on them to surrender.

Engraved portrait of David Collins
David Collins, the Judge Advocate, whose Account of the English Colony is the main record of Pemulwuy's war. Engraved by A. Cardon after T. T. Barber, 1804, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Battle of Parramatta – March 1797

In March 1797 Pemulwuy led a raid on the government farm at Toongabbie. There'd been a run of robberies at the Northern Farms near Parramatta. Smith places them near where the Burnside Homes later stood, and Wikipedia gives the modern suburbs as Oatlands and Carlingford. A party of armed settlers and soldiers went after the raiders. At sunrise they came on more than 100 Aboriginal people and chased them towards Parramatta, then gave up and went into town for a rest.

About an hour later, Pemulwuy and "a large body of natives" followed them right into Parramatta. The National Museum says he threatened to spear anyone who tried to stop them. Smith writes that Pemulwuy, in a rage, speared a soldier. Spears flew, the soldiers and settlers opened fire, and at least five Aboriginal warriors were killed in the first volley. Pemulwuy went down with seven pieces of buckshot in his head and body, and he was taken to the hospital badly hurt. Writing much later, in the 1870s, the journalist John Henniker Heaton claimed that 50 people were shot in the fighting.

Government House, Parramatta, 1805, by George William Evans
Government House, Parramatta, in 1805, painted by George William Evans. This was the town Pemulwuy marched into in March 1797. George William Evans, State Library of NSW, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Escape, and the Man Guns Couldn't Kill

Then Pemulwuy did the thing that made him a legend. Still carrying the shot, and with an iron on his leg, he escaped from the Parramatta hospital. Late in April 1797 the governor met several groups of Aboriginal people near Botany Bay, and Pemulwuy was among them. Collins wrote that he had "perfectly recovered from his wounds" and "escaped from the hospital with an iron about his leg". He spoke with one of the gentlemen in the party and asked whether the governor was angry, "and seemed pleased at being told that he was not".

After that, the ADB says, the Darug came to believe firearms couldn't kill him. In Collins's words: "Through this fancied security, he was said to be at the head of every party that attacked the maize grounds." In 1800 John Washington Price, the surgeon on the convict ship Minerva, wrote that "Pummil-woy" had "lodged in him, in shot, slugs and bullets about eight or ten ounces of lead, it is supposed he has killed over 30 of our people". Smith puts it simply: the legend grew that guns couldn't kill him, "but in the end he proved mortal".

Parramatta from May's Hill, c.1824, by Joseph Lycett
Parramatta from May's Hill, about 1824, by Joseph Lycett. Joseph Lycett, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Prospect Hill seen from Pemulwuy Lake
Prospect Hill (Marrong) seen from Pemulwuy Lake. Cumberland Council says Pemulwuy is believed to have used the hill in his fight. Yucalyptus, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Outlawed – King's Orders of 1801

Philip Gidley King became governor in 1800, and he took a much harder line. On 1 May 1801 he issued a government and general order that Aboriginal people around Parramatta, the Georges River and Prospect could be driven off by gunfire. The ADB and the National Museum both read it as an order that they could be shot on sight. He also outlawed two runaway convicts, William Knight and Thomas Thrush, who had joined the resistance.

In November 1801 troops went out to Mill Creek on the Georges River, and King issued a proclamation that outlawed Pemulwuy and offered rewards for him "dead or alive". The National Museum quotes the sliding scale of rewards:

To a prisoner for life or 14 years, a conditional emancipation. To a person already conditionally emancipated, a free pardon and a recommendation for a free passage to England. To a settler, the labour of a prisoner for 12 months. To any other descriptions of persons, 20 gallons of spirits and two suits of slops.

Wikipedia, quoting the Historical Records of New South Wales, dates the order to 22 November 1801. It blamed Pemulwuy for killing two men, badly wounding several others and a string of robberies.

Portrait of Governor Philip Gidley King, about 1798
Philip Gidley King, about 1798. As governor he outlawed Pemulwuy in 1801 and sent his head to Banks in 1802. Unknown artist, State Library of NSW ML 546, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Death of Pemulwuy – June 1802

The rewards worked. Pemulwuy was shot dead on or just before 2 June 1802. The ADB gives it as about 1 June, and Smith says 2 June. His head was cut off.

Who fired the shot is still argued about. King told Lord Hobart in London in October 1802 that "two settlers, not having the means of securing the person of Pemulwuye and another native, shot them". King also claimed that other Aboriginal people had asked for the head to be cut off and sent to him. His clerk, David Dickinson Mann, wrote in 1811 that King had offered a reward "to any person who should kill him and bring in his head. This was soon accomplished by artifice, the man received the reward, and the head was sent to England in spirits by the Speedy."

The name most often given is Henry Hacking, first mate of the Lady Nelson, which was lying in Sydney Cove at the time. Hacking was a First Fleet man, a quartermaster on the Sirius, and he'd led a lot of the colony's hunting trips. Wikipedia says he had shot Aboriginal people before, at Middle Harbour in 1789 and on the Hunter River in 1799. The evidence comes from Samuel Smith, a seaman on Flinders's Investigator, who wrote in his journal on 20 July 1802 that "Bumbleway … a Severe Enemy to White people" had been "shot by the Master of the Nelson Brig, that was shooting in the Woods, his head being brought Tranquility was again restor'd".

Not everyone accepts it. In 2013 the historian Doug Kohlhoff looked at the evidence again and suggested the killers were more likely settlers from around Parramatta, Toongabbie and Prospect Hill. The National Museum quotes his conclusion, and I think it's worth repeating: "Knowing who fired the fatal shot does not affect Pemulwuy's place in history. Pemulwuy was, as [Governor] King recognised, 'a brave and independent character'. He inspired others, fought hard and died for his land and his people."

There's a sad twist in the timing. About a week after Pemulwuy was killed, according to the National Museum, a dispatch arrived from Lord Hobart telling King that "any instance of injustice of wanton cruelty towards the natives will be punished with the utmost severity of the law". Wikipedia, quoting King's letter to Hobart, says King then ordered that Aboriginal people were not to be molested and could come back into the Parramatta and Prospect districts.

The Lady Nelson in the Thames, 1803 engraving
The Lady Nelson. Her first mate in 1802 was Henry Hacking, the man most often named as Pemulwuy's killer. James Grant, 1803, State Library of NSW, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Aerial view of the Port Hacking estuary
Port Hacking, south of Botany Bay, was named after Henry Hacking. Amble, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

"A Brave and Independent Character" – The Head Sent to Banks

On 5 June 1802, a few days after the killing, King sat down and wrote to Sir Joseph Banks in London. The letter is in the Banks Papers at the State Library of NSW, and volunteers have transcribed it. Here is the passage, spelling and all:

I send by this Conveyance the articles named in the enclosed list --- The printed paper will explain how I came by the Head, the bearer of it [Pemulwuy] you will find mentioned in [David] Collins's Books, altho a terrible pest to the Colony, he was a Brave and independent character, understanding that the possession of a New Hollander. Head is among the desiderata I have put it in spirits and forward it by the Speedy.

"Desiderata" means things wanted, a wish list. Banks liked to send his collectors lists of specimens. What makes it so hard to read today is the next line of the letter, where King goes straight on to a box of protea specimens from the Hunter River and a lump of salt from the mountains. To King, Pemulwuy's head was another item for the collection.

The whaler Speedy got to London in November 1802. On 24 November the owners, Samuel Enderby and Sons, wrote to Banks from Paul's Wharf that the master "has a Black Swan, a Native's Head in Spirits and a number of other things for Sir Joseph Banks". In April 1803 Banks wrote back to King. He said the head "is said to have caused some Comical consequences when opened at the Customs house" and that it now "makes a figure in the Museum of the Late Mr Hunter". That was the anatomist John Hunter, whose collection became the Hunterian Museum at the Royal College of Surgeons. He was no relation to Governor John Hunter.

Portrait of Joseph Banks by Joshua Reynolds
Joseph Banks, painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds about 1771 to 1773. King sent Pemulwuy's head to him in 1802. Joshua Reynolds, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Where Is His Head Now?

The short answer is that nobody knows. Smith says that in the 1800s the head was known to be in the Hunterian Museum at the Royal College of Surgeons, and that its location is now unknown. The ADB says plainly that it "has not been found in an English repository to date".

A 2012 news.com.au report says the museum's records note that the heads of two Aboriginal people in jars of alcohol were given to the Royal College of Surgeons in 1802. No names were recorded with them, though, and there's no record of what happened to them after 1818. The College was heavily bombed in 1941, during the Second World War, and more than half its specimens were destroyed. In 1948 about 3,000 skulls went from the College to the Natural History Museum in London.

Engraving of the Hunterian Museum at the Royal College of Surgeons, London
The Hunterian Museum at the Royal College of Surgeons in London, where the head was believed to be in the 1800s. T. H. Shepherd and E. Radclyffe, Library of Congress, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Prince William and the Redfern Elders – 2010

When Prince William visited the Block in Redfern in January 2010, a group of elders and activists, including Mick Mundine of the Aboriginal Housing Company, gave him a petition asking for Pemulwuy's skull to be returned. A couple of months later Mundine got a letter with the royal insignia on it. The prince's private secretary, Jamie Lowther-Pinkerton, wrote: "On his return from Australia, Prince William told me that he intended to do all that he could to investigate the circumstances surrounding the missing head". The letter, as reported in the Sydney Morning Herald, called it a "supremely important search".

The same letter quoted Michael Dixon, director of the Natural History Museum. He said the museum might have taken in the head in 1948 with the College's skulls, but that it could have been destroyed before then: "The Royal College of Surgeons was extensively bombed in 1941 and over half the specimens in their collection were destroyed." A History of Aboriginal Sydney summarises the letter a little differently. It says the head might have been destroyed in 1941, "or possibly may even have been returned to Australia in 1998". Mundine told the ABC: "For Aboriginal people, it will heal part of the wound."

Mural at the entrance to The Block, Redfern
The mural at the entrance to the Block in Redfern. Elders here asked Prince William in 2010 to help bring Pemulwuy home, and the Block's redevelopment is called the Pemulwuy Project. Pimlottc, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Trail Goes Cold

Christopher Pyne, then a federal MP, took up the cause and wrote to the prince in 2012. The answers he got back weren't encouraging. The prince's office said British investigations hadn't found the remains. Jeremy Hunt, the Culture Secretary, and Dr Dixon both said there was no evidence they were in the museum. Dixon added that identifying any one person's remains was extremely hard, and that using DNA raised ethical questions, including concerns from Aboriginal communities.

In 2014 the British High Commissioner, Paul Madden, visited the Natural History Museum and wrote about it. He called Pemulwuy's case "particularly prominent" and said what happened to the skull "remains a mystery". After the Blitz, some of the College's surviving collection went to the Natural History Museum and some was sent back to Australia. He wrote that the museum had "no positive information that indicates that Pemulwuy's skull is there".

The National Museum of Australia unveiled a plaque to Pemulwuy in March 2015. At the time it said it was working with the federal Ministry for the Arts on research into where his remains might be. Speaking to Australian Geographic in 2017, the museum's director, Mathew Trinca, said: "The Museum has searched and others have searched for records of his remains in the United Kingdom in vain… The problem of course, we simply do not know what happened." The National Museum's Pemulwuy page, last updated in May 2025, still says "the current whereabouts of the head is unknown".

The Natural History Museum in London
The Natural History Museum, London. It took in about 3,000 skulls from the Royal College of Surgeons in 1948, but says it has no record of Pemulwuy's. Diliff, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Tedbury – Pemulwuy's Son

Pemulwuy's son Tedbury, also known as Tjedboro, kept up the fight after his father's death. The ADB tells his story. Strangely enough, he became attached to John Macarthur, who let him come and go at Elizabeth Farm. When Governor Bligh was put under arrest in 1808, Tedbury turned up at Macarthur's cottage in Sydney with a bundle of spears and reportedly said he'd come to spear the governor. The next year he and a man called Bundle tried to rob a traveller on the Parramatta Road, and he was in an attack on a settler's farm at the Georges River. In 1810 Edward Luttrell shot Tedbury at Parramatta, and he died of his wounds. He had a wife and possibly a son, Tommy Dadbury, who was living with the Wianamattagal clan at Penrith in 1837.

Joseph Lycett painting of John Macarthur's residence near Parramatta
John Macarthur's house near Parramatta (Elizabeth Farm), by Joseph Lycett, about 1823. Pemulwuy's son Tedbury was allowed to come and go here. Joseph Lycett, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The "Rainbow Warrior" – A Novel's Title, Not a Traditional Name

A lot of people call Pemulwuy the "Rainbow Warrior". It's worth being clear about where it comes from. In 1987 the Aboriginal scholar, engineer and author Eric Willmot published a novel called Pemulwuy: The Rainbow Warrior (Weldon, McMahons Point). The ADB and the Dictionary of Sydney both list it. Smith calls it "a brilliant work of fiction" and says that in it Willmot "constructed a black hero for Australia's Aboriginal community". In Willmot's story, Pemulwuy can turn himself into a bird to escape.

So "Rainbow Warrior" is the title of a novel, not a name Pemulwuy was given in his own lifetime or by his own people. None of the early records I've read use it. The Sydney Morning Herald, in its 2010 story on Prince William, said he was "known as the 'rainbow warrior', for the colours he wore". It gives no source for that, and I couldn't find one in the colonial records or the reference works.

There are Darug names linked with him, though. Cumberland Council, which looks after the suburb named for him, says Butu Wargun means "Black Crow: Clan Leader", Pemulwuy's totem. Butu Wargun Drive in the suburb carries that name.

How He Is Remembered Today

For a long time Pemulwuy was left out of the history books. Mathew Trinca of the National Museum said in 2017 that there had been "a growing awareness of Pemulwuy as a historical figure" since the 1980s. Today his name turns up all over Sydney.

  • The suburb of Pemulwuy. It was created in 2004 on historic Prospect Hill, near Greystanes. The name was put forward by the Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Consultative Committee of the old Holroyd City Council. Many of its streets and parks have Darug names, and Watkin Tench Parade is a reminder of the first Europeans to climb the hill.
  • The ferry Pemulwuy. It's one of the first six Emerald-class harbour ferries, which came into service in 2017. Another of them is named after Bungaree.
  • The Pemulwuy Project. The Aboriginal Housing Company's redevelopment of the Block in Redfern has housing for 62 Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander families, which was finished in December 2020.
  • Pemulwuy Park in Redfern, according to Wikipedia.
  • The National Museum plaque. It was unveiled in Canberra on 20 March 2015 as part of the museum's Defining Moments project. Bidjigal elder Uncle Vic Simms said: "What the Museum is doing is so important for getting the history right about Pemulwuy as a Bidjigal man."
  • Songs and screen. Redgum's "Water and Stone" and Marlene Cummins's song "Pemulwuy" are both about him. According to Wikipedia, Cummins's song was presented to Prince William along with the petition. A feature film, First Warrior, was announced in 2024.
The Emerald-class ferry MV Pemulwuy at Milsons Point wharf
The harbour ferry Pemulwuy at Milsons Point wharf, one of the six Emerald-class ferries that came into service in 2017. Philip Terry Graham, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Aerial photo of the suburb of Pemulwuy
The suburb of Pemulwuy from the air, on the old quarry country around Prospect Hill. Mark Merton, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Driftway Reserve in the suburb of Pemulwuy
Driftway Reserve in Pemulwuy. Many of the suburb's streets and parks carry Darug names. Chris.sherlock2, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Old Government House, Parramatta, in jacaranda season
Old Government House, Parramatta, today. Michael Cleary, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Timeline

  • c.1750 – Pemulwuy born near Botany Bay, on the northern side of the Georges River.
  • January 1788 – The First Fleet arrives.
  • 1789 – Smallpox hits the Aboriginal people of Sydney.
  • October 1790 – Bennelong asks marines to join a war party against Pemulwuy, the first time the British hear his name.
  • November 1790 – Pemulwuy stays about two weeks in Bennelong's hut at Bennelong Point.
  • 10 December 1790 – Pemulwuy spears the gamekeeper John McEntire near the Cooks River.
  • 14 December 1790 – Tench's punitive expedition sets out, and finds no one.
  • 20 January 1791 – McEntire dies.
  • May 1792 – First raid, at Prospect.
  • 1792–1797 – Raids at Prospect, Toongabbie, Georges River, Parramatta, Brickfield Hill and the Hawkesbury.
  • January 1795 – Pemulwuy attends the initiation ceremony at Farm Cove.
  • December 1795 – A false report that John Caesar has killed him.
  • March 1797 – Toongabbie raid and the Battle of Parramatta. Pemulwuy is shot seven times and captured.
  • April 1797 – Escaped in irons, he's seen near Botany Bay.
  • 1800 – Surgeon Price writes that he carries "eight or ten ounces of lead".
  • 1 May 1801 – King's order that Aboriginal people near Parramatta, Georges River and Prospect be driven off by gunfire.
  • November 1801 – Proclamation outlawing Pemulwuy and offering rewards (dated 22 November in the Historical Records).
  • c.1–2 June 1802 – Pemulwuy is shot dead and beheaded.
  • 5 June 1802 – King writes to Banks and sends the head in spirits on the Speedy.
  • 24 November 1802 – The Enderbys tell Banks the head has arrived in London.
  • April 1803 – Banks says the head is in "the Museum of the Late Mr Hunter".
  • 1808 – Tedbury threatens to spear Governor Bligh.
  • 1810 – Tedbury is shot by Edward Luttrell at Parramatta and dies.
  • 1941 – The Royal College of Surgeons is bombed and over half its specimens are destroyed.
  • 1948 – About 3,000 skulls go from the College to the Natural History Museum.
  • 1987 – Eric Willmot publishes Pemulwuy: The Rainbow Warrior.
  • 2004 – The suburb of Pemulwuy is created.
  • January 2010 – Redfern elders give Prince William a petition, and his office promises to search.
  • 2012 – British officials and the Natural History Museum say there's no evidence the head is there.
  • 2013 – Doug Kohlhoff questions whether Hacking fired the fatal shot.
  • 20 March 2015 – The National Museum of Australia unveils its Pemulwuy plaque.
  • 2017 – The ferry Pemulwuy enters service.
  • 2025 – The National Museum still lists the head's whereabouts as unknown.

Where the Sources Disagree

  • The date of the spearing, and when McEntire died. Smith (Dictionary of Sydney) and the National Museum give 10 December 1790, and Smith says McEntire died on 20 January 1791. Cumberland Council gives 9 December and says McEntire "died 3 days later". Tench's account, on Wikipedia, has the shooting party setting out on 9 December and the men creeping up "about one o'clock", after the sergeant had been asleep. I've gone with 10 December and 20 January.
  • Phillip's orders. Wikipedia, following Tench and the historian John Moore, says Phillip first wanted ten men killed and beheaded and two captured, and Tench talked him down to six prisoners. Smith describes the orders as six killed and two captured for execution.
  • Black Caesar in 1795. Smith says the report that John Caesar had killed Pemulwuy was false. Wikipedia says Caesar cracked Pemulwuy's skull in a fight at Botany Bay and that he survived.
  • How many died at Parramatta in 1797. Smith and the National Museum say at least five warriors were killed. Henniker Heaton, writing in the 1870s, claimed 50.
  • The date of his death. The ADB says "about 1 June 1802". Smith says 2 June. The National Museum says "on or just before 2 June".
  • Who killed him. King wrote of "two settlers". Mann wrote of one man who got the reward. The ADB names Henry Hacking outright, and Smith says "suspicion falls on" Hacking, based on Samuel Smith's journal. Doug Kohlhoff (2013), as summarised by the National Museum, thinks settlers from Parramatta, Toongabbie or Prospect Hill were more likely.
  • What happened to the head. Smith says it was in the Hunterian Museum through the 1800s. The 2012 news report says the College has no record of the two 1802 heads after 1818. Dixon (2010) said it might have reached the Natural History Museum in 1948 or been destroyed in 1941. A History of Aboriginal Sydney's summary of the same letter adds that it might have been returned to Australia in 1998. Madden (2014) said the museum had no positive evidence it was there.
  • His name. The ADB says pemul means earth. Smith says Pemall (bimul) means earth or clay. Wikipedia gives Bemul Wagan, "the earth and the crow". Cumberland Council gives Butu Wargun, "Black Crow: Clan Leader", as his totem.
  • The "Rainbow Warrior". The ADB and the Dictionary of Sydney tie the name to Eric Willmot's 1987 novel. The Sydney Morning Herald (2010) said he was called that "for the colours he wore", but gave no source.
  • The only picture. The National Museum says the 1803 engraving of "Pimbloy" in a canoe, after a lost drawing by James Grant, is "believed to be the only known depiction" of Pemulwuy. It also says the face is hard to make out and the feet are hidden. Australian Geographic says it's "thought to feature" him. Nobody can be certain it's him.

My Earlier Posts

Sources

  • J. L. Kohen, "Pemulwuy (c.1750–1802)", Australian Dictionary of Biography, supplementary volume, 2005. adb.anu.edu.au/biography/pemulwuy-13147
  • Keith Vincent Smith, "Pemulwuy", Dictionary of Sydney, 2010. dictionaryofsydney.org/entry/pemulwuy
  • Dictionary of Sydney, "Pemulwuy" (suburb). dictionaryofsydney.org/place/pemulwuy
  • National Museum of Australia, "Pemulwuy", Defining Moments, updated 13 May 2025. nma.gov.au/defining-moments/resources/pemulwuy
  • National Museum of Australia, "National Museum honours Aboriginal warrior Pemulwuy", media release, 20 March 2015. nma.gov.au
  • State Library of NSW, "Letter received by Banks from Philip Gidley King, 5 June 1802 (Series 39.068)", page 4, Banks Papers transcription. transcripts.sl.nsw.gov.au
  • Josephine Tovey, "Off with his head: prince pledges to return warrior's skull", Sydney Morning Herald, 1 April 2010. smh.com.au
  • "Prince William vows to search for warrior's skull", ABC News, 1 April 2010. abc.net.au
  • A History of Aboriginal Sydney, "Prince William investigates whereabouts of Pemulway's remains" (2010). historyofaboriginalsydney.edu.au
  • Brad Crouch, "Prince William searches for missing skull of Aboriginal resistance leader Pemulwuy", news.com.au, 28 November 2012. news.com.au
  • Paul Madden, "Behind the scenes at the museum", UK Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office blogs, 20 March 2014. blogs.fcdo.gov.uk
  • "On this day: Pemulwuy is killed", Australian Geographic, 1 June 2017. australiangeographic.com.au
  • Cumberland City Council, "Aboriginal heritage in Cumberland". cumberland.nsw.gov.au
  • Aboriginal Housing Company, "About Us – The Pemulwuy Project". pemulwuyproject.org.au
  • Wikipedia, "Pemulwuy" (for Tench's account of the McEntire spearing, the November 1801 order, King's letter to Hobart, and the songs and films). en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pemulwuy
  • Wikipedia, "Emerald-class ferry". en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emerald-class_ferry
  • Wikipedia, "Henry Hacking". en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_Hacking
  • Eric Willmot, Pemulwuy: The Rainbow Warrior, Weldon, McMahons Point, 1987 (as cited by the Dictionary of Sydney and the ADB).
  • Primary sources quoted through the works above: David Collins, An Account of the English Colony in New South Wales (1798–1802); Watkin Tench, A Complete Account of the Settlement at Port Jackson (1793); J. W. Price, Journal on the Minerva (SLNSW); Samuel Smith, Journal on the Investigator (SLNSW); Samuel Enderby to Banks, 24 November 1802 (SLNSW Banks Papers); King to Hobart, 30 October 1802 (Historical Records of NSW).
  • Pictures: Wikimedia Commons, with credits under each image.

Saturday, March 20, 2021

Bare Island - La Perouse - Botany Bay - New South Wales

Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander readers are advised that this page contains the names of people who have died.

Bare Island is that little rock at La Perouse with a fort on it and a long timber bridge running out to it, sitting at the mouth of Botany Bay. If you grew up in the Eastern Suburbs you probably went there on a Sunday: a look at the snake man, a walk out over the bridge. But there's a lot packed onto that headland. It's Aboriginal country with one of the oldest continuing communities in Sydney. It's where La Pérouse's French ships sat for six weeks in 1788, just as the First Fleet was leaving. It has an 1820s watchtower, a French monument, an old cable station that's now a museum, and a fort whose building ended in a Royal Commission. Later it was a home for old soldiers, and even later a film set for Tom Cruise. Below my original notes I've added the full story, a timeline and the sources.

Bare Island is a low sandstone islet off the La Perouse headland on the northern shore of Botany Bay, linked to the mainland by a timber bridge. Captain Cook’s 1770 journal noted “a small bare island” here as a navigational marker, and the English name stuck. The wider headland is part of the Gooriwal cultural landscape, with deep continuing connections for the La Perouse Aboriginal community (including Gweagal and Kameygal associations at European contact) to land and sea for food, work and recreation.

In the 1880s, colonial nerves about foreign naval attack fortified the rock. The fort was designed under imperial defence advice from Sir Peter Scratchley (with Gustave Morell) for the NSW Department of Public Works; Colonial Architect James Barnet is also associated with the works. Construction ran through the 1880s (commonly summarised 1881–1889). Decommissioned in 1911, from 1912 the fort served for decades as a war veterans’ home, except during the Second World War, when the army took it back in 1942.

Bare Island Fort is State Heritage listed and managed inside Kamay Botany Bay National Park / the La Perouse headland precinct by NPWS. It matters both as a near-intact late-nineteenth-century coastal defence work and as part of the living Aboriginal cultural landscape of La Perouse. Guided tours and headland walks are the usual way in.

Bare Island fort, La Perouse, Botany Bay.

The Story of Bare Island and La Perouse

Engraving of First Fleet ships in Botany Bay with canoes
The First Fleet arriving in Botany Bay in January 1788, with Aboriginal people in canoes watching. Bare Island is in the background, according to the Commons description. Engraving by T. Medland after R. Cleveley. Original drawing by R. Cleveley, engraving by T. Medland., Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Country first

Long before anyone gave it a French name, the La Perouse headland was known as Gooriwal, according to the Wikipedia history of the suburb. The Dictionary of Sydney says the original owners of the land were the Kameygal, who had plenty of fish and fresh water and moved with the seasons. The State Heritage listing material quoted on Wikipedia says the Gweagal and Kameygal were associated with Bare Island itself at the time of European contact. The Kamay Botany Bay National Park listing puts it a bit differently: Gweagal people on the Kurnell side, speaking Dharawal, and probably Cadigal people on the northern headland. I've set out those versions further down.

What isn't in doubt is how long people have been here. The Dictionary of Sydney calls La Perouse the one area of Sydney with which Aboriginal people have had an unbroken connection for over 7,500 years, and says members of the Timbery family living there today can trace their ancestors back to before contact. There are middens and rock engravings on the headland, including a whale and calf and a shark, though they're slowly wearing away.

Cook's "small bare island"

The island's English name is about as plain as it gets. When Cook's Endeavour came into the bay in 1770, Cook noted "a small bare island" as a handy navigation mark, and Joseph Banks collected shells there. The name simply stuck, which makes it one of the first European names on the east coast.

Bare Island as a bare rock circa 1873
Bare Island around 1873, before the fort was built. You can see the natural low rock that Cook described. American & Australasian Photographic Company, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

La Pérouse and the French in 1788

Portrait of Lapérouse
Jean-François de Galaup, comte de Lapérouse, in a lithograph by Delpech. Delpech, François-Séraphin (1778-1825). Lithographe, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Jean-François de Galaup, comte de Lapérouse, had left Brest on 1 August 1785 with two ships, the Boussole and the Astrolabe, on a scientific voyage around the Pacific for King Louis XVI. He reached Botany Bay on 24 January 1788, only days after Phillip had arrived. Bad weather kept the British fleet in the bay until the 26th, so the French were sailing in just as Hunter was taking the First Fleet round to Port Jackson.

It was all very polite. The British offered help and so did the French, and neither side took up the offer. The French had arrived in a sorry state. In Samoa, 12 of their men, including Captain de Langle of the Astrolabe, had been killed. So the six weeks at Botany Bay were spent building a stockade, an observatory and a garden, and putting together a new longboat. The astronomer Dagelet made observations that the Kamay listing calls among the first European scientific work in Australia. Lapérouse sent his journals and letters home on a British ship. Wikipedia's suburb page says it was the Sirius, while its Lapérouse biography says it was the merchant ship Alexander.

Drawing of the two French frigates at anchor
The Astrolabe and Boussole at anchor, probably in Alaska, in 1786. The drawing was made during the expedition. Unknown artist, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The expedition's chaplain and naturalist, Father Louis Receveur, had been hurt in the Samoan fight and died at Botany Bay on 17 February 1788. He was buried on the headland above Frenchmans Bay. The Kamay listing calls him the first French person buried on the Australian mainland.

The French sailed in March 1788 and were never seen again. Both ships were wrecked on the reefs of Vanikoro in the Solomon Islands. Peter Dillon found the first real evidence in 1826, wreckage was found in 1964, and in 2005 the wreck was formally identified as the Boussole. That's part of why the headland matters so much to the French. Botany Bay was the last place anyone saw them.

The Headland Monuments

Macquarie Watchtower

The oldest building on the headland is the octagonal stone tower. The Dictionary of Sydney says it was built in 1822 on the highest point, with a view over the entrance to the bay, so troops could keep watch for smugglers. From 1833 to 1903 it was a customs house, and in the 1860s it was a school as well. The Dictionary calls it the oldest structure in Botany Bay and the oldest customs house in New South Wales. The Kamay listing adds that from 1829 a caretaker for the French monuments lived there. It also says the Customs Department took the tower over in 1831 for a tide waiter and two boatmen, which doesn't quite match the Dictionary's 1833. I couldn't find a freely licensed photo of the tower on Wikimedia Commons, so it'll have to be one for my own camera.

The Lapérouse Monument and Father Receveur's tomb

1846 illustration of the La Perouse monument
"Monument to La Perouse", an illustration from John Lort Stokes' Discoveries in Australia, 1846. John Lort Stokes, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

In 1825 the French naval officer Hyacinthe de Bougainville visited and arranged for a monument to Lapérouse and a memorial over Receveur's grave. The tall obelisk near the museum is the Lapérouse Monument. The French still gather there every year for Bastille Day and Lapérouse Day. The sources don't agree on the dates. Some give 1825 for the monument and the tomb, and the Kamay listing says 1829. The details are in the section further down.

Old photograph of the La Perouse obelisk
The La Perouse Monument, photographed by William Henry Broadhurst some time between about 1900 and 1927. Broadhurst, William Henry, 1855-1927, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
The Laperouse Monument in 2019
The Laperouse Monument today. Debra Widdicombe, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Group photograph at La Perouse monument 1944
A group at the La Perouse monument in 1944, photographed by Sam Hood for M. Soudan of the Courier australien. Sam Hood, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Cable Station, now the La Perouse Museum

In 1876 the first telegraph cable between Australia and New Zealand came ashore at La Perouse, running to Nelson. The first station was just tents and huts. In 1881 a brick cable station went up on the western side of the headland, overlooking Frenchmans Beach, designed by the Colonial Architect's office. The cable came ashore at Frenchmans Bay, and that's why the building faces that way.

Landing the telegraph cable at La Perouse 1876
Men hauling the New Zealand to Sydney telegraph cable ashore at La Perouse in 1876. Australian National Maritime Museum on The Commons, No restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons

After the telegraph company left, the building had a busy second life. The Dictionary of Sydney says it was used as an extension of the Coast Hospital during the Spanish flu of 1918 to 1920. From 1920 to 1933 it housed nurses, and after that the Salvation Army ran a refuge for women and children there. Wikipedia mentions a Salvation Army home for orphans in the early 1950s. Today it's the La Perouse Museum, with French relics, maps, instruments and local Aboriginal history. Wikipedia says Randwick Council was finalising a lease of the museum precinct from National Parks.

Old photograph of nurses' quarters at La Perouse
Nurses' quarters at La Perouse, photographed by William Henry Broadhurst some time between about 1900 and 1927. Broadhurst, William Henry, 1855-1927, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
La Perouse Museum building
The La Perouse Museum in the old cable station, 2019. Debra Widdicombe, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Fort on Bare Island

Why fortify a rock?

By the late 1860s the British garrison had been pulled out of the Australian colonies. When war threatened between Britain and Russia in the 1870s, Sydney got nervous. Imperial engineers Jervois and Scratchley came out to advise. Jervois recommended a small work in Botany Bay to stop a few enemy cruisers from slipping in, raiding Sydney and holding it to ransom for its gold. A military road reached the headland in 1869, and Henry Head had a gun battery by 1871.

Design and building

Scratchley turned Jervois's idea into a detailed design with the help of the civil engineer Gustavus Morell. The Colonial Architect, James Barnet, was responsible for building it. The design was a symmetrical crescent with the biggest gun in the middle, facing where an enemy would most likely come from. The design work ran from mid-1877 to early 1880, and Scratchley kept making changes even after that.

John McLeod, who also built the forts at Georges Head and Middle Head, won the tender in 1881 and started on 7 April. The Clerk of Works, Henry Purkis, had plenty of other jobs and was often away. After Scratchley died in 1885, Major Penrose took over. The fort was built of mass concrete, which was still a fairly new and poorly understood material. That's part of why it's heritage-listed today, and part of why it went wrong.

1907 postcard of Bare Island fort
A 1907 postcard of the fort, captioned "Bear Island". People were getting the name wrong even then. Powerhouse Museum from Sydney, Australia, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The guns were two 9-inch 12-ton muzzle-loaders, two 80-pounders, a 10-inch 18-ton gun in an armoured casemate, and two five-barrelled Nordenfelt machine guns. The heavy guns came across by barge. Before the bridge was built in 1887, getting onto the island meant a barge or a flying fox. About 70 soldiers manned it in its working years.

Timber footbridge to Bare Island
The timber bridge out to Bare Island in 2016. The first bridge went in in 1887. Tony Hugo, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Cracks, a Board of Inquiry and a Royal Commission

Wikipedia says construction was finished in 1886, but by 1887 problems from poor workmanship were showing up. Barracks were built in 1888 and 1889 by the same contractor without going to tender. Lieutenant Colonel de Wolski, the new head of the military works branch, objected to the barracks design, where they were put, and the lack of a tender. A Board of Inquiry was set up and the contract was suspended.

Then on 1 July 1890 a Royal Commission was set up to look into how the contracts were let and the work that had been done. The evidence from Barnet's office was contradictory. The Commission found that the work was below standard and that the Colonial Architect hadn't supervised it properly. Barnet resigned. He thought de Wolski had swayed the Commission and called its findings unjust, petty and spiteful. McLeod never won another government contract. That's a sad end for the man who designed the GPO. The State Heritage listing says the fort changed the way public building work was done in New South Wales after that.

1910 postcard of Bare Island
Bare Island on a 1910 postcard. Powerhouse Museum from Sydney, Australia, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Early photo of Bare Island
Bare Island, La Perouse, photographed by William Henry Broadhurst some time between about 1900 and 1927. Broadhurst, William Henry, 1855-1927, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

A Home for Old Soldiers, 1912 to 1963

The fort passed to the Commonwealth in 1901. Its garrison was cut back in 1902, and by 1908 there wasn't much military activity left. The Dictionary of Sydney says it was decommissioned in 1911. After petitions from local women's groups, the first seven war veterans moved in in 1912. The heritage listing calls it the first war veterans' home in Australia.

During the Depression in the 1930s the guns were sold for scrap. The two biggest were too heavy to get back over the bridge, so they're still there. In 1942, with Japan in the war, the army moved back in, and 24 servicemen known as the "Bare section" took the veterans' place. In 1962 the army offered to sell the island to the War Veterans' Home for one pound, and the offer was turned down. The home closed in 1963.

Museum, Heritage and National Park

From 1963 the Randwick Historical Society looked after the island and ran a museum. The Fort Artillery Society dressed in period uniform and fired the 9-inch gun, which was a big drawcard until the live firings stopped in 1974. The island was made a reserve for public recreation on 12 March 1965 and gazetted as Bare Island Historic Site on 1 October 1967, under the National Parks and Wildlife Service. Wikipedia says the fort was open to the public until 28 December 1989, the day of the Newcastle earthquake. Today you get inside only on a guided tour.

Bare Island Fort in 1974
Bare Island Fort in 1974, the last year of the live gun firings. kenhodge13, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The fort went on the State Heritage Register on 2 April 1999, as an almost completely intact example of late nineteenth century coastal defence. The whole headland is part of Kamay Botany Bay National Park, which was gazetted in 1988. The park went on the State Heritage Register in 2013 and the National Heritage List in 2017. Around the island it's the most popular scuba diving spot in New South Wales, with weedy sea dragons, seahorses and the Bare Island anglerfish, which is named after the island.

Bare Island Fort walls
Bare Island Fort, 2012. Innova2008, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Bare Island from Henry Head
Bare Island seen from Henry Head, where there was another fort. Adam.J.W.C., CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Henry Head coastline
Henry Head, 2013. Its battery was built between 1892 and 1895. Maurice van Creij, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The La Perouse Community

After colonisation many Aboriginal people left the area. By the 1870s families connected to La Perouse and Botany Bay, along with people from the South Coast, were coming back. In 1881 there were 35 people recorded at the La Perouse camp. By 1885 seven acres had been declared a "Reserve for the Use of Aborigines", the only one in Sydney according to the Dictionary of Sydney. In 1895 it was fenced, and only the constable and the missionary had a key.

Again and again the government tried to move the people off, around 1900 to Wallaga Lake, then again in the 1920s and the 1960s, and every time they refused. In 1928, 53 residents signed a petition in the Sydney Morning Herald: "This is our heritage bestowed upon us: in these circumstances we feel justified in refusing to leave." Jack Patten of La Perouse was a leader of the Aborigines Progressive Association, and Joseph Timbery was among the La Perouse people who played a big part in the 1938 Day of Mourning. In 1984 the La Perouse Local Aboriginal Land Council was finally given the deeds to the reserve.

People on the reserve worked the tourist trade too, selling boomerangs and shellwork to the crowds who came out on the tram. The tram line reached La Perouse in stages between 1900 and 1902, and the last tram ran in 1961.

Tram at La Perouse loop 1961
An R1 tram at La Perouse on 25 February 1961, the last day of service, chalked all over by farewell crowds. lindsaybridge from Sydney, Australia, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Group at La Perouse 1937
A Royal Australian Historical Society outing at La Perouse in 1937. Royal Australian Historical Society, No restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons

The Snake Men of La Perouse

No Sunday at La Perouse was complete without the snake man. The Dictionary of Sydney says snake men drew the crowds from about 1909, letting snakes crawl over them and sometimes bite them, in a pit near the tram loop. The first was "Professor" Frederick Fox, the "Snake King". He went to India in 1913 to sell his antidote and died of krait bites in Calcutta in 1914. Herbert See took over and was killed by a brown snake. Then George Cann took over, and the Cann family ran the show for about 90 years. John Cann's last show was on 18 April 2010, and the Hawkesbury Herpetological Society has kept it going since.

Snake pit enclosure at La Perouse
The snake pit at La Perouse, January 2007. User:Conollyb, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Family watching the snake show
A young family watching the Snake Man on a Sunday afternoon in January 2007. User:Conollyb, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Snake handler with snakes
The Snake Man and friends, 2007. User:Conollyb, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Lights, Camera, Bare Island

Bare Island's had a film career too. Charles Chauvel used shots of the fort as an Arab citadel in Forty Thousand Horsemen (1940). In Mission: Impossible 2 (2000) it became Biocyte's storage facility, where Ethan Hunt steals the cure from Ambrose before the chase back onto the mainland. It has also turned up in East West 101 and the finale of Netflix's reboot of The Mole.

Bare Island fort and bridge
Bare Island in 2013, tagged by its photographer as a Mission: Impossible location. Hee Yong Lee, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Bare Island at dusk
Bare Island at sunset, 2015. Lenny K Photography from Sydney, Australia, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Aerial view of Botany Bay heads
From the air: La Perouse and Kurnell on either side of the entrance to Botany Bay. Maksym Kozlenko, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Old photo of Botany Heads
Botany Heads from La Perouse, photographed by William Henry Broadhurst some time between about 1900 and 1927. Broadhurst, William Henry, 1855-1927, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Timeline

  • Thousands of years: Aboriginal people live on the headland, with an unbroken connection of over 7,500 years according to the Dictionary of Sydney.
  • 1770: Cook notes "a small bare island". Banks collects shells there.
  • 24 January 1788: Lapérouse arrives off Botany Bay.
  • 26 January 1788: The First Fleet leaves for Port Jackson as the French sail in.
  • 17 February 1788: Father Receveur dies and is buried on the headland.
  • March 1788: The French sail away and are lost at Vanikoro.
  • 1822: Macquarie Watchtower built (troops there by 1822 according to the Kamay listing).
  • 1825: Bougainville arranges the monument and Receveur memorial (1829 in the Kamay listing).
  • 1833 to 1903: The watchtower serves as a customs house (from 1831 according to the Kamay listing).
  • 1869: Military road reaches La Perouse.
  • 1876: Telegraph cable to New Zealand lands at La Perouse.
  • 1877 to 1880: Bare Island fort designed.
  • 7 April 1881: McLeod starts work. The brick cable station is also built this year.
  • 1885: Scratchley dies. The La Perouse Aboriginal reserve is declared.
  • 1886: Construction finished, according to Wikipedia. Other dates are given, see below.
  • 1887: The bridge is built.
  • 1888 to 1889: Barracks built without a tender.
  • 1 July 1890: Royal Commission into the Bare Island works. Barnet resigns.
  • 1901: The fort passes to the Commonwealth.
  • 1900 to 1902: The tram reaches La Perouse.
  • c. 1909: Snake men start drawing crowds.
  • 1911: Fort decommissioned, according to the Dictionary of Sydney.
  • 1912: The first seven war veterans move in.
  • 1918 to 1920: The cable station is used as a Coast Hospital annexe during the Spanish flu.
  • 1928: Reserve residents petition against removal.
  • 1930s: Guns sold for scrap, except the two biggest.
  • 1942: The army takes the island back for the war.
  • 25 February 1961: Last tram to La Perouse.
  • 1963: Veterans' home closes. Randwick Historical Society takes over.
  • 1 October 1967: Bare Island Historic Site gazetted.
  • 1974: Live gun firings end.
  • 1984: La Perouse Local Aboriginal Land Council given the reserve deeds.
  • 1988: Botany Bay National Park gazetted.
  • 28 December 1989: Fort closed to general public entry.
  • 2 April 1999: Bare Island Fort added to the State Heritage Register.
  • 2000: Mission: Impossible 2 released, with scenes shot on Bare Island.
  • 2005: Vanikoro wreck identified as the Boussole.
  • 18 April 2010: John Cann's last snake show.
  • 2013 and 2017: Kamay Botany Bay listed on the State and then National Heritage registers.

Where the Sources Disagree

  • When the fort was finished. Wikipedia's Bare Island article says it was completed in 1885 at a cost of £34,000, with work inside starting in 1889. A few lines later the same article says construction was completed in 1886. It also gives the build as 1881 to 1889. The Kamay listing says it was operational by 1890. The La Perouse suburb article says it was fortified in 1885.
  • Who designed it. The Bare Island article and the heritage listing credit Scratchley, with Morell and Barnet, working to Jervois's specification. The La Perouse suburb article says it was built to a design by Barnet.
  • When the fort stopped being a fort. Wikipedia says the garrison was cut back in 1902, with little military activity by 1908 and decommissioning in the early 1900s. The Dictionary of Sydney gives 1911.
  • Who the traditional owners were. The Dictionary of Sydney names the Kameygal. The Bare Island heritage material says Gweagal and Kameygal. The Kamay listing says Gweagal at Kurnell and probably Cadigal on the northern headland. The suburb article says Gooriwal was the name used by the Muruora-dial people, with the Kameygal clan of the Dharug probably living there.
  • The monument and tomb. The Dictionary of Sydney and Wikipedia say 1825, through Bougainville. Wikipedia's suburb article says the tombstone was paid for "the following year" after 1824. The Kamay listing says the monuments were erected in 1829.
  • The watchtower. The Dictionary of Sydney says it was built in 1822 and was a customs house from 1833. The Kamay listing says it was used for customs from 1831. Wikipedia says it was built in 1820 to 1822.
  • Which ship took Lapérouse's letters. The suburb article says the Sirius. The Lapérouse biography says the Alexander.
  • The snake men. The Dictionary of Sydney says they started about 1909. Wikipedia's suburb article says Professor Fox began the shows in the late 19th century, and dates George Cann's start to 1918. The Snake Man article says 1919.
  • The fort's own heritage text as copied on Wikipedia also includes a sharp opinion that the fort "served no real purpose at all". That's one writer's view, not a settled fact.

My Earlier Posts

Sources