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Showing posts with label Darlinghurst Gaol. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Darlinghurst Gaol. Show all posts

Friday, October 16, 2026

Ryder Street – Darlinghurst – The Little Lane That Named a Heritage Area

Most Sydneysiders have walked past Ryder Street a hundred times without knowing it. It's one of those skinny back streets tucked in behind Crown Street, just south of Oxford Street, the kind you only find if you live there, park there or take a wrong turn looking for a bar. But this little street has given its name to a whole heritage conservation area, and the few blocks around it hold more than 170 years of Sydney's story, from Gadigal country and Edward Riley's tangled estate to a church built in 1853 and the nightclubs of the Golden Mile.

Panorama of the corner of Oxford Street and Crown Street, Darlinghurst
The corner of Oxford and Crown Streets in 2026. Ryder Street runs in behind the Crown Street shops just south of here. Xyxyzyz, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Finding Ryder Street

First things first, because I wanted to be sure we had the right street. Ryder Street is real, it's spelt R-Y-D-E-R, and the City of Sydney puts it in Darlinghurst, postcode 2010. The council's own Planning Street Cards for the years 1908 to 1928 are filed under "Ryder Street, Darlinghurst", so the name and spelling have been the same for at least a hundred years. I couldn't find any record of a "Rider Street" here, or of the street ever having another name.

It really is little more than a lane. A 2024 City of Sydney traffic committee report measured it at about 3.9 metres wide, and said it "provides rear-lane property access to houses fronting Crown and Ryder Street". The same report places it running north from Taggarts Lane up to Little Oxford Street, with houses on Crown Street backing onto it.

So picture a narrow slot between the back fences of the Crown Street terraces and a row of little houses of its own, sitting in the triangle made by Oxford Street, Crown Street and Campbell Street, a short stroll from Taylor Square.

Corner of Crown Street and Campbell Street
The corner of Crown and Campbell Streets, at the southern edge of the Ryder Street area. The photographer called this corner Surry Hills, which shows how blurred the suburb line is here. Kgbo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Gadigal Country

Long before there were any streets here, this was Gadigal land. The Dictionary of Sydney's Darlinghurst entry, written by historian Mark Dunn in 2011, says that before Europeans arrived the area "was within the traditional lands of the Gadigal people", and that the Gadigal kept visiting and using the place into the 1840s, when European settlement took hold.

Wikipedia's article on the Gadigal describes their country, Gadi, as the land south of Port Jackson, taking in today's CBD and stretching from South Head across to Marrickville and Petersham. It describes the Gadigal as one of seven coastal clans who shared a common language and are now known as the Eora. Governor Arthur Phillip wrote to Lord Sydney in February 1790 that the district from the harbour entrance along the south shore "is called Cadi, and the tribe Cadigal". The same article says the 1789 smallpox epidemic is estimated to have killed about half of the Eora, though it adds that some Gadigal may have survived by moving towards Concord.

The Dictionary of Sydney's Surry Hills entry, just over Oxford Street, calls that suburb Cadigal land too, a reminder that the old spellings Cadigal and Gadigal are the same people.

Edward Riley and the Raffled Estate

The reason Ryder Street exists at all, and the reason it's so narrow, goes back to one man's death. The Dictionary of Sydney describes Edward Riley as a merchant who settled in Sydney after making money in India, and who amassed a huge estate by buying up allotments in Surry Hills. It says the Riley Estate stretched from Woolloomooloo Bay to Surry Hills and was put together from many smaller land grants in the 1820s, with Riley shown as owner from 1820 to 1825.

Then it all went wrong. In the words of the Dictionary's Surry Hills entry, Riley "committed suicide in 1825, he left two conflicting wills, leading to years of litigation among his heirs". The government appointed a commission to divide Riley's land into seven parcels of equal value, "which were raffled amongst the seven heirs". The roads laid down to separate those seven parcels didn't line up with the street grid surveyor James Meehan had pegged out in 1814. That's one of the reasons the streets around here meet at odd angles, and why Oxford Street cuts across the blocks on the diagonal.

The Dictionary keeps a detail of the 1844 plan of the Riley Estate, held by the City of Sydney Archives as CRS518/1, "Riley Estate – Woolloomooloo, Darlinghurst & Surry Hills, 1844". It's the map that shows the estate before it was carved up into the house lots we know.

Who Was Ryder?

I'd love to tell you who the street was named after, but I couldn't find a single source that says. Riley Street, a few blocks west, is named after Edward Riley himself, but there's nothing to link Ryder to Riley, and I won't guess. If anyone has an old deed or subdivision plan with the answer, I'd be glad to hear it.

From Paddocks to Terraces

Darlinghurst filled up fast once the big estates were broken up. The Dictionary of Sydney's Darlinghurst entry says that by the mid-1880s most of the land below the cliffs south of William Street was packed with terraces. It also says that as demand for land grew, the bigger allotments were cut up again, and "back lanes originally laid out for rear access were developed with smaller terraces fronting the lanes". That's exactly what you can still see in Ryder Street, with garages and back gates from Crown Street on one side and small houses facing the lane itself.

The same entry quotes the economist William Stanley Jevons, who walked these neighbourhoods in 1858. He noticed "a series of very narrow back streets" filling up with smaller houses, and he worried that "in time they will form crowded dirty lanes, removed from the public view, difficult to drain and ventilate". He was writing about the streets between William Street and the South Head Road, but he could have been describing the back lanes all over this part of town.

Over on the Surry Hills side, the Dictionary says subdivision from the 1830s made Surry Hills one of Sydney's most populous districts by the 1890s, and that poor drainage and rushed building created slum conditions. Ryder Street sits right on the seam between the two suburbs, so its story belongs to both.

Corner of Charlotte Lane and Hargrave Street, Darlinghurst, 1927
A Darlinghurst back lane in 1927, Charlotte Lane at Hargrave Street. This isn't Ryder Street, but it shows the sort of narrow lane and small houses that filled the gaps behind the main streets. Unknown photographer, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Real estate listings give a feel for the houses today. One agent described 6 Ryder Street as a "circa 1900 double storey terrace" in a "tranquil laneway-like street just 150 meters from the bustling Crown and Oxford Streets", listed at 38 square metres. Another called 2 Ryder Street "Part of Ryder Street Heritage precinct" and said it had "a quiet laneway setting". These are tiny workers' houses, two bedrooms and one bathroom, and these days they sell for well over a million dollars.

The Ryder Street Heritage Conservation Area

For a street most people have never heard of, Ryder Street does something rather grand. It gives its name to the Ryder Street Heritage Conservation Area, which takes in the blocks around it. The City of Sydney's 2024 planning proposal for Oxford Street's LGBTIQA+ heritage items states plainly that the Oxford Hotel, the Palms nightclub and the Universal nightclub are all "located in the Ryder Street Heritage Conservation Area".

Being in a conservation area means the houses can't simply be knocked down or rebuilt however an owner likes. The streetscape as a whole is protected. That's why Ryder Street still looks the way it does.

The Christian Israelite Church, Campbell Street

The jewel of the area is round the corner from Ryder Street, on Campbell Street at the corner of Denham Street. It's the Sydney sanctuary of the Christian Israelite Church, a small faith that a lot of Sydneysiders have never heard of, even though its church has stood here since the 1850s.

Christian Israelite Church, Campbell Street, Sydney
The Christian Israelite Church in Campbell Street, photographed in 2009. Sardaka, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The church's own history, compiled by Lynne Gray, says the movement was founded by the Yorkshire prophet John Wroe, who first visited Australia in 1843 and spent time around Sydney and Penrith. The first Sydney meetings were held in member John Beaumont's house in Castlereagh Street, then in a small room in Pitt Street. The early members were "generally shopkeepers, tailors and businessmen from the central Sydney area".

On 29 January 1851 the society's trustee, David Roberts, asked the Colonial Secretary for a grant of land to build a sanctuary. He was knocked back, because the Christian Israelites weren't one of the denominations entitled to land under the Church Act of 1836. They pressed on anyway. "By 1853, a block of land had been acquired," the history says. It adds that how they got it hasn't been established, "but most probably through member donation". The sanctuary was built in Campbell Street and is still in use. Between 1854 and 1899 the Sydney congregation had at least 225 members, and over time it took in the smaller country groups from places like Liverpool and Dural.

Wroe himself died in Melbourne on 4 February 1863, aged 81, on his fifth visit to Australia, according to Wikipedia's article on the church. That article also says the Sydney congregation still meets, and that its services have been broadcast live online.

Christian Israelite Church in 2018
The Christian Israelite Church in 2018. The photographer filed it under Surry Hills. Sardaka, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Christian Israelite Church, 2018, second view
Another 2018 view of the church, which is still a working place of worship. Sardaka, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Christian Israelite Church Sydney, 2022
The church in 2022. Shkuru Afshar, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Christian Israelite Church, Campbell Street front
The Campbell Street front of the church in 2023. Shkuru Afshar, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The City of Sydney Archives holds a Town Clerk's file from December 1950 to October 1951 for "196 Campbell St. (cnr. Denham St.). The Christian Israelite Church. To erect additions for use as change & cloak rooms". It's a small, ordinary file, but it shows the congregation still fixing up and using its building a century after it went up.

Camden Flats

Next door on Campbell Street, at 188 to 194, stands Camden Flats, an Interwar block of flats. I could only see Camden Flats mentioned in council heritage reports that wouldn't open for me, so I'll just say it's there. I've left out the details I couldn't check for myself.

The Paperwork of a Little Street

Without Trove, which was down while I was writing this, the best window into Ryder Street's past is the City of Sydney Archives. Even the file titles tell a story.

The Planning Street Cards for Ryder Street, Darlinghurst, run from 1908 to 1928. They're the old cards the council kept for every street, logging building work and alignments.

A Town Clerk's file from 13 July 1967 to 11 December 1968 is headed "Crown St, Taggarts Lane & Ryder St. Subject of real property application No.45706 by J.C.Bush. Definition of alignments." It's a reminder that, with lots this small and this old, even working out where the boundary sits has needed the council's help.

Then in September 2024 the council's Local Pedestrian, Cycling and Traffic Calming Committee took up a request from "Residents of Crown and Ryder Streets". They asked for "No Parking" signs because cars parked opposite their garages made it nearly impossible to get in and out. The report recommended a two-car-space No Parking zone on the eastern side, between 20 and 36.8 metres north of Taggarts Lane. It noted that "In narrow streets like Ryder Street, cars parking opposite driveways obstruct or prevent vehicles from entering or exiting these driveways." Anyone who's tried to reverse out of a Darlinghurst lane will know exactly how they felt.

Crimes and News Stories

I went looking for the scandals, but Ryder Street has kept its secrets so far. Trove, the National Library's newspaper archive, was offline while I worked on this, so I haven't been able to search the old papers for Ryder Street court cases, fires or family notices. I'll add them when it's back. What I can say is that the neighbourhood around it was no stranger to trouble. The Dictionary of Sydney says that by the late 1920s Riley Street was "notorious as Sydney's worst thoroughfare and Underworld battleground". It also notes that in the Second World War Kate Leigh's brothels and sly grog shops were "riding high" south of Oxford Street, while her rival Tilly Devine's empire lay north of it. Ryder Street sat right in between.

Ryder Street's Neighbours

Oxford Street, the Old South Head Road

Ryder Street's northern end runs up to Little Oxford Street, and Oxford Street is only a few steps beyond. The Dictionary of Sydney says that when Darlinghurst Gaol opened, the prisoners were marched out from the old city gaol "along the South Head Road (Oxford Street)" to their new home. Oxford Street was the old road out to South Head long before it got its present name.

Flanagans Hotel, Oxford Street, Darlinghurst, 1890
Oxford Street, Darlinghurst, in 1890, looking east from Hyde Park, with Flanagan's Hotel. City of Sydney Archives, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Oxford Street, Sydney, 1892-1893
Oxford Street in 1892–93, photographed by Fred Hardie. Fred Hardie, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

According to Wikipedia's article on Oxford Street, in May 1909 the Sydney Council resolved to widen the street from 66 feet to 100 feet by resuming the whole north side between Liverpool and Bourke Streets. The work was done in five stages between 1910 and 1914. The council's 2024 heritage proposal says the Palms building at 124 Oxford Street is evidence of that rebuilding of the north side "from 1909 to 1914". The Federation shopfronts you see today along that side are the result.

Oxford Street from Hyde Park Corner, 1910
Looking up Oxford Street from Hyde Park Corner in 1910, just before the widening. Unknown author, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Italianate building, Oxford Street
An Italianate building on Oxford Street, 2019. Sardaka, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Oxford Street Darlinghurst, 2007
Oxford Street, Darlinghurst, in 2007. J Bar, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Colombian Hotel, Oxford and Crown Streets
The Colombian Hotel on the corner of Oxford and Crown Streets, a few doors from the top of Ryder Street, 2013. User:Bidgee, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Oxford Street and Crown Street corner
Another view of the Oxford and Crown Streets corner. Xyxyzyz, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Golden Mile

From the late 1970s this end of Oxford Street became the heart of gay Sydney. Wikipedia says the stretch between Hyde Park and Paddington Town Hall became known from the early 1980s as "The Golden Mile".

The City of Sydney's 2024 planning proposal, based on heritage studies by TKD Architects, recommended listing three venues in the Ryder Street conservation area as heritage items. The Oxford Hotel at 134 Oxford Street has been licensed for hotel purposes since the late 1850s, and it has been a gay male hotel continuously since 1982. Radio Birdman and other bands played there in the late 1970s. The Palms at 124 Oxford Street was built in 1913, once housed the grocers Kidman's and McIlraths, and became the Palms nightclub around 1977, which the proposal calls "a rare example of a LGBT nightclub that has operated almost continuously since the late 1970s". Universal at 85 to 91 Oxford Street is described as having operated almost continuously since 1978.

Universal Nightclub, Oxford Street
Universal nightclub on Oxford Street, 2021. SproulesLane, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Dykes on Bikes, Mardi Gras 2006
Dykes on Bikes leading the Mardi Gras parade up Oxford Street in 2006. Jez Arnold, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Rainbow crossing at Bourke and Campbell Streets
The rainbow crossing at Bourke and Campbell Streets, just east of the Ryder Street area, 2025. Xyxyzyz, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Taylor Square

A short walk east along Oxford Street brings you to Taylor Square, where Oxford Street meets Bourke and Flinders Streets. The council proposal says the Oxford Hotel "makes an important contribution to the Taylor Square townscape", and it lists the old Electrical Substation No. 6 and the underground lavatory nearby as heritage items.

Taylor Square, Sydney
Taylor Square in 2013. Hpeterswald, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Taylor Square fountain
The fountain in Taylor Square, with Kinsela's in the background, 2020. Sardaka, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Taylor Square Substation No. 6
Substation No. 6 and the underground conveniences at Taylor Square, both heritage listed, 2019. Collywolly, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Rainbow crossing at Taylor Square
The rainbow crossing at Taylor Square, 2020. MDRX, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Northern end of Taylor Square, 2026
The northern end of Taylor Square in February 2026. Xyxyzyz, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Darlinghurst Gaol and the Courthouse

On the far side of Taylor Square are the sandstone walls of the old Darlinghurst Gaol and Courthouse. The Dictionary of Sydney says the gaol was begun in 1822 and completed in 1841, and the courthouse was built between 1835 and 1844 facing the South Head Road. Public hangings out the front drew crowds until they were moved inside in 1853.

Wikipedia says the wall went up between 1822 and 1824, the first prisoners moved in on 7 June 1841, and 76 people were hanged there. They included Captain Moonlite in 1880 and Louisa Collins in 1889, the last woman hanged in NSW. Henry Lawson did time there too, and he nicknamed it "Starvinghurst Gaol". The old prison became the East Sydney Technical College in 1921 and is now the National Art School.

Darlinghurst Gaol north-east corner, 1872
The north-east corner of Darlinghurst Gaol, about 1872, by Charles Percy Pickering. Charles Percy Pickering, State Library of NSW, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Gallows at Darlinghurst Gaol, 1883
The gallows at Darlinghurst Gaol, from the Illustrated Sydney News, 21 November 1883. Unknown author, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Henry O'Farrell in Darlinghurst Gaol, 1868
Henry O'Farrell, who shot Prince Alfred at Clontarf, sketched in Darlinghurst Gaol by Francis Newry in 1868. Francis Newry (1842-1915), Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Darlinghurst Gaol, about 1930
Darlinghurst Gaol in a picture dated around 1930. Adam.J.W.C., Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Darlinghurst Court House
Darlinghurst Court House on Taylor Square, 2007. J Bar, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Up the Hill to Kings Cross

Kings Cross is a fair walk up Darlinghurst Road from here, but the two places are tangled together. The Dictionary of Sydney says the name Darlinghurst once covered Kings Cross, Potts Point and Elizabeth Bay for much of the nineteenth century, and that Governor Darling gave the ridge its name in the late 1820s, probably in honour of his wife Eliza. Today it says Darlinghurst runs from William Street in the north to Oxford Street in the south, which is where things get interesting for Ryder Street.

Coca-Cola billboard, Kings Cross
The Coca-Cola sign at Kings Cross, 2026. Xyxyzyz, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Aerial view of Darlinghurst
Darlinghurst from Sydney Tower in 2012, with East Sydney in the foreground. lindsaybridge, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Darlinghurst 2017
Darlinghurst terraces in 2017. Wpcpey, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
69 Campbell Street, Darlinghurst
69 Campbell Street, Darlinghurst, 2017. Campbell Street forms the southern edge of the Ryder Street area further along. Kgbo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Ryder Street Today

Today Ryder Street is a quiet residential lane in one of the busiest parts of Sydney. Its little terraces are worth a fortune, its residents are still arguing with the council about parking, and its name is on the heritage maps that protect the whole corner. Agents' listings boast that it's steps from Taylor Square, Crown Street and the buses, "amid bars, dining, galleries & culture". Walk down it on a weekday afternoon and you'd never guess the Golden Mile was a stone's throw away.

The Bookshop Darlinghurst, Oxford Street
The Bookshop Darlinghurst on Oxford Street, 2025. Xyxyzyz, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Timeline

  • Before 1788: Gadigal country (Dictionary of Sydney).
  • February 1790: Governor Phillip writes that the south shore district "is called Cadi, and the tribe Cadigal".
  • 1814: Surveyor James Meehan lays out a street grid for Surry Hills.
  • 1820–1825: Edward Riley owns the Riley Estate.
  • 1825: Riley dies, leaving two conflicting wills. His land is later split into seven parcels and raffled among his heirs.
  • Late 1820s: Governor Darling names the ridge Darlinghurst.
  • 1822–1841: Darlinghurst Gaol is built. Prisoners are marched in along the South Head Road.
  • 1843: John Wroe first visits Australia.
  • 1844: The Riley Estate plan is drawn (City of Sydney Archives CRS518/1).
  • 29 January 1851: The Christian Israelites ask for a land grant and are refused.
  • 1853: The Christian Israelite sanctuary is built in Campbell Street. Public hangings move inside the gaol.
  • 1858: W. S. Jevons describes Darlinghurst's narrow back streets.
  • Mid-1880s: Most of Darlinghurst below the cliffs is covered in terraces.
  • c.1900: 6 Ryder Street is built, according to its sale listing.
  • 1908–1928: The council keeps Planning Street Cards for Ryder Street, Darlinghurst.
  • 1909–1914: The north side of Oxford Street is resumed and widened.
  • 1912 or 1914: Darlinghurst Gaol closes (the sources differ).
  • 1950–51: Change and cloak rooms are added to the Christian Israelite Church.
  • 1967–68: The council defines the alignments of Crown Street, Taggarts Lane and Ryder Street.
  • c.1977–1982: The Palms (c.1977) and Universal (1978) open, and the Oxford Hotel becomes a gay hotel (1982).
  • 12 September 2024: The traffic committee considers No Parking in Ryder Street.
  • 2024: The council proposes heritage listing for three Oxford Street LGBTIQA+ venues in the Ryder Street conservation area.
  • October 2025: 2 Ryder Street sells for $1,385,000.

Where the Sources Disagree

  • Darlinghurst or Surry Hills? The City of Sydney's Planning Street Cards, its 2024 traffic report and the real estate listings all put Ryder Street in Darlinghurst. The Dictionary of Sydney, though, says Darlinghurst is bounded by Oxford Street to the south, and Ryder Street is south of Oxford Street. Photographers on Wikimedia Commons have filed the Christian Israelite Church and the Crown and Campbell Street corner under Surry Hills.
  • When the gaol closed. The Dictionary of Sydney says Darlinghurst Gaol closed in 1912. Wikipedia says 1914.
  • Which side of Oxford Street? The council's 2024 proposal puts the Oxford Hotel and the Palms, both on the widened north side of Oxford Street, inside the Ryder Street Heritage Conservation Area, even though Ryder Street itself lies south of Oxford Street. I've reported that as the council wrote it.
  • The 1853 church. The Christian Israelite history says the land was "acquired" by 1853 and that the sanctuary was erected in Campbell Street. Wikipedia says the sanctuary was "created" in 1853. Neither says exactly when it opened.

My Earlier Posts

Sources

Thursday, October 15, 2026

The Attempted Assassination of Prince Alfred – Clontarf – 12 March 1868 – Henry James O'Farrell and the Fenian Scare

On a sunny Thursday afternoon in March 1868, a man walked up behind Queen Victoria's son at a charity picnic on the beach at Clontarf, put a revolver to within a few feet of his back and fired. Prince Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh, the first member of the royal family ever to visit Australia, went down shouting that his back was broken. He lived. The gunman, Henry James O'Farrell, very nearly got lynched on the sand, and six weeks later he was hanged at Darlinghurst Gaol.

It's remembered as the first attempted political assassination in Australia. What came after it is just as much of a story: a colony gripped by panic about Fenians, a law rushed through Parliament in a single day, Henry Parkes chasing a conspiracy that was never found, Sydney's first Nightingale nurse at the Prince's bedside, and in the end a great hospital in Camperdown that still carries his name.

Engraving of O'Farrell firing at Prince Alfred at the Clontarf picnic, 1868
"Attempted assassination of H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh at Clontarf, N.S.W.", wood engraving by Samuel Calvert, 1868. Samuel Calvert, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The First Royal Tour

Alfred was born at Windsor Castle on 6 August 1844, the second son and fourth child of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. He joined the Royal Navy at 14 as a midshipman, and by 1866 he was a captain in command of HMS Galatea, a steam frigate that still carried a full set of sails. That same year he was made Duke of Edinburgh.

The Galatea was a 26-gun wooden screw frigate, launched at Woolwich in 1859, about 280 feet long with a crew of around 450. With the Prince in command she set out on a world cruise in 1867, calling at Rio de Janeiro, Tristan da Cunha and the Cape before crossing to Australia. The National Museum of Australia has the Prince landing at Glenelg, outside Adelaide, on 31 October 1867. It was the first royal tour this country had seen, taking in South Australia, Victoria, Tasmania, New South Wales and Queensland.

Carte de visite portrait of Prince Alfred in naval uniform, Sydney, about 1868
Prince Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh, in a captain's undress uniform of the Royal Navy, photographed in Sydney by Montagu Scott about 1868. Montagu Scott, State Library of New South Wales, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
HMS Galatea under sail, about 1868
HMS Galatea, the frigate Prince Alfred commanded on his world cruise, about 1868. Unknown author, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The crowds were huge everywhere, and things didn't always go well. In Melbourne in November 1867 a Protestant hall was decorated with a picture of William of Orange beating the Catholic armies at the Battle of the Boyne. Irish Catholics gathered outside and threw stones, shots were fired from inside the hall into the crowd, a Catholic boy was killed and a riot followed. A free public banquet a few days later turned into another riot when about 40,000 people turned up for food and wine laid on for 10,000 and the Prince cancelled. At Bendigo three boys were burnt to death inside a firework model of the Galatea.

Sydney Puts On a Show

The Galatea came into Sydney from Tasmania on 21 January 1868. The Prince was met at Circular Quay by the Colonial Secretary, Henry Parkes, and the Governor, Lord Belmore, in a pavilion built for the occasion, and was driven through the crowds to Government House. After about a month he went up to Brisbane for a week, then came back to Sydney in early March, when his staff asked for a lighter round of engagements.

Triumphal arch at the Prince's Stairs, Circular Quay, January 1868
The triumphal arch at the Prince's Stairs, Circular Quay, put up for the Duke of Edinburgh's landing in January 1868. Photographer unknown, State Library of New South Wales, No known copyright restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons
HMS Galatea at anchor in Farm Cove with Government House at left, about 1870
HMS Galatea in Farm Cove, with Government House to the left, about 1870, when the Prince was back in Sydney on a later visit. Photograph attributed to Charles Pickering. Attributed to Charles Pickering, State Library of New South Wales, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

There was a man in the crowd at the Quay that first day who had come to kill him. Henry O'Farrell later said: "I had gone to Circular Quay on the day of the Prince's arrival in Sydney, and I intended to shoot him there, but the opportunity did not present itself."

Who Was Henry James O'Farrell?

O'Farrell was born about 1833 at Arran Quay in Dublin, the youngest child of William O'Farrell, a butcher, according to the Australian Dictionary of Biography. The family moved to Liverpool and then to Melbourne, arriving early in 1841. Henry was schooled at David Boyd's school and St Francis's school, went on to St Francis's seminary and received deacon's orders. He spent 1853–54 studying in Europe, but in 1855 he fell out with Bishop Goold and was never ordained.

He tried sheep farming near Clunes, then became a grain merchant at Ballarat in partnership with his cousin Joseph Kennedy. Things went downhill from there. In 1864 his brother Peter, a leading Melbourne solicitor, lost his reputation in a libel case and fled the colony, and Kennedy soon afterwards died of delirium tremens. O'Farrell failed in speculations, fell into debt, took to drink and brooded over never becoming a priest.

In January 1867 he had a serious breakdown, with bouts of delirium tremens, talk of plots to poison him, waving pistols about and threatening to kill people. Two of his sisters took him to Melbourne. Back in Ballarat he collapsed again and had several epileptic fits. In September 1867 he went to Sydney and stayed at Tierney's Currency Lass Hotel until he was asked to leave because of his strange behaviour. From December he lived at the Clarendon Hotel on money his sister sent him, and the ADB says he became noticeably agitated whenever Fenianism came up. On 11 March 1868 he practised pistol shooting at Waverley.

Studio portrait of Henry James O'Farrell, 1868
Henry James O'Farrell, photographed in Sydney by Montagu Scott in 1868. Montagu Scott (1835–1909), Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Sailors' Home Picnic at Clontarf

Clontarf takes its name from the site of the Battle of Clontarf near Dublin. It sits on the north-eastern side of Middle Harbour with a long, sheltered beach facing west. From the early 1860s the Sydney publican Isaac Moore and his family ran pleasure grounds there, advertised in 1863 as "the oldest, largest, and most shady pleasure grounds in the harbour", with quoits, skittles and cricket bats always on hand. By the time Moore died in 1866 his sons had made it a favourite spot for holiday excursions.

The picnic on Thursday 12 March 1868 was a fundraiser for the Sydney Sailors' Home, organised by the barrister and politician William Manning, and the Prince had agreed to come. Five steamers ran people across from Circular Quay through the day. A big marquee was put up as a "luncheon saloon", a tent was pitched opposite the beach for the Prince and his party, and yachts and steamers dressed in flags lay at anchor off the beach. By midday there were somewhere between two and three thousand people on the grounds.

Watercolour of Balmoral Beach and the Clontarf entrance to Middle Harbour
George Podmore's watercolour "Balmoral Beach, Clontarf Entrance, Middle Harbour", dated 1877, though the date may be 1897. George Podmore, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
The Sydney Sailors' Home building in George Street, The Rocks
The Sydney Sailors' Home building in George Street, The Rocks, as it stands today. Rangasyd, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Emily Nuttall Thorne was there, and her handwritten account is now in the State Library of NSW: "directly we saw the little 'Fairy' coming we ran along the beach to the little pier at which he would land. All the yachts saluted him as he passed by them." The Prince came over from the Galatea on the steam yacht Fairy and landed at the Clontarf jetty at about two o'clock. The committee met him with an address, and after lunch and a toast to the Queen he went across to his own tent at about 3.20 pm.

The Shooting

From the tent, the Prince and Sir William Manning walked over towards a clump of trees by the beach where a band was playing, and the Prince handed Manning a cheque for the Sailors' Home. O'Farrell had been standing in the shade with a group of people. He came up behind the Prince and, once he was within five or six feet, pulled out a revolver, took aim and fired.

The bullet hit the Prince in the middle of the back, about two inches to the right of the spine. He fell forward onto his hands and knees. The National Museum of Australia gives his words as "Good God, I am shot … My back is broken." Manning sprang at O'Farrell but lost his footing and fell, and O'Farrell turned the gun on him.

Who Grabbed the Gun?

This is where the accounts start to differ. Wikipedia's account, drawn from the newspapers, says a coach-maker named William Vial grabbed O'Farrell from behind and pinned his arms to his sides, the revolver went off as they struggled, and the second shot hit a bystander named George Thorne in the foot, who fainted. The National Museum of Australia says instead that "a Mr Thorne" tackled O'Farrell and wrestled the gun off him as he tried to fire again. There's more on this further down.

Whoever got to him first, plenty of others piled in, and there were shouts of "lynch him" and "hang him". Police under Superintendent Orridge took charge of O'Farrell and had the greatest trouble keeping the crowd from "tearing him limb from limb". By the time they got him to the wharf and aboard the steamer Paterson, the clothes had been ripped off his upper body and he was bruised and bleeding.

According to Wikipedia's article on Alfred, Vial was the master of a Masonic lodge and had helped organise the picnic, and the Prince presented him with a gold watch for securing his life.

The Wound and the Nightingale Nurses

Three or four men carried the Prince to his tent, where several doctors took over. They found the bullet had gone in to the right of the lower spine and run around the line of the ribs, lodging just under the skin at the front of his abdomen. He never lost consciousness. Seeing how worried everyone was, he told them: "Tell the people I am not much hurt, I shall be better presently." At about five o'clock he was carried aboard the steamer Morpeth on a litter and taken back to Sydney.

Why the wound wasn't worse depends on who you read. The Dictionary of Sydney says the bullet glanced off his ribs. Wikipedia's article on Alfred says it ricocheted off a metal clip on his trouser braces, and its Clontarf article puts it down to his India-rubber braces crossing at that spot.

Portrait photograph of Lucy Osburn, about 1869
Lucy Osburn, Lady Superintendent of the Sydney Infirmary, photographed by Freeman Bros & Prout about 1869. Freeman and Prout, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Sydney had trained nurses waiting, just. Henry Parkes had asked Florence Nightingale for trained nurses for the Sydney Infirmary, and Lucy Osburn was appointed lady superintendent. The ADB says she and five trained sisters, including Haldane Turriff, reached Sydney on 5 March 1868, only a week before the picnic. Born in Leeds in 1836, she had trained at the Nightingale Training School at St Thomas's Hospital, and the ADB says she was "called on to supervise the nursing of the wounded Duke of Edinburgh" within a week of arriving. Wikipedia's Alfred article says six Nightingale-trained nurses led by Matron Osburn looked after him for the next two weeks.

He mended quickly. The doctors reported on 16 March that he could sit up, though the wound still hurt now and then, and by late March he was said to be regaining strength "as rapid as the most sanguine could expect". According to the Dictionary of Sydney and Government House, he had recovered completely by the end of March.

The Fenian Panic

Sydney's reaction was enormous. The Sydney Morning Herald wrote the next day: "One universal feeling of sorrow, shame, and rage pervades the community. The whole colony has been wounded in the person of its Royal guest." On 13 March an "indignation meeting" at the Pavilion in Hyde Park drew somewhere between seventeen and twenty thousand people. One count puts the number of indignation meetings across the colonies at 250 or more, most of them within a week of the shooting. The Dictionary of Sydney describes "an outpouring of prejudice and racism towards Catholics and Irish", and Orange lodge membership in New South Wales grew fast, peaking in 1876 at over 19,000 members in 120 lodges.

The Fenians were the Irish republican brotherhood, founded in the United States, that had carried out violent attacks in Canada, and Australians had already been reading about "Fenian terrorism" in England. When police were struggling with O'Farrell at Clontarf, several of them later testified, he claimed to be a Fenian.

Henry Parkes and the Treason Felony Act

On 18 March Parkes, as Colonial Secretary, went to see O'Farrell in gaol with the Speaker, William Arnold. According to the Herald, the prisoner was "very communicative" and claimed he had written orders from the Fenian leadership to execute the Prince. That same day the Legislative Assembly put the Treason Felony Act through every stage in one sitting, and it had vice-regal assent by evening. It allowed up to two years' jail for language "disrespectful to the Queen" or for "expressing sympathy with certain offenders", and the Dictionary of Sydney notes that it made it an offence to refuse to drink the Queen's health.

Portrait of Henry Parkes
Henry Parkes, the Colonial Secretary who led the hunt for a Fenian conspiracy in 1868. From "Eminent Citizens of New South Wales, 1850–1900". Unknown author, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Parkes wrote to the Victorian Colonial Secretary, James McCulloch, saying his government knew O'Farrell was one of a group of Fenians, some of them in Victoria. No such group was ever found. Police and detectives turned up nothing, and Parkes came to be seen as having whipped up public hysteria and sectarian feeling for political gain. Even so, in a speech at Kiama in August 1868 he insisted the government had proof of a conspiracy. He resigned as Colonial Secretary in September 1868.

In December a select committee chaired by William Macleay was set up to look into the alleged conspiracy, and by February 1869 it had found there was no Fenian conspiracy behind the shooting. Parkes then got the Assembly to vote that the report was "made an instrument of personal hostility against a member of the House", and it was struck from the parliamentary record.

The Trial

A preliminary hearing began the day after the shooting before the magistrate Houlton Voss, held in the debtors' prison at Darlinghurst Gaol and running from 13 to 16 March. O'Farrell was arraigned on 26 March for wounding the Duke of Edinburgh with intent to murder, and pleaded not guilty. His trial opened in the Central Criminal Court on Monday 30 March before Justice Alfred Cheeke.

Pencil drawing of Henry O'Farrell seated in his cell
Henry O'Farrell in Darlinghurst Gaol, a pencil drawing by Francis Newry, 1868. Francis Newry (1842-1915), Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

His barrister, Butler Aspinall, came up from Melbourne and argued he was insane, "a man whose intellect was in such a state that he could not be held to be responsible for his actions." The jury was out for about an hour and came back with a verdict of guilty, and Cheeke sentenced him to death.

The Prince Asks for Mercy

On 5 April the Prince wrote to Lord Belmore asking that O'Farrell's life be spared. His reason was that under English law attempted murder wasn't punishable by death, and he didn't want the man treated more harshly in Sydney than he would have been in England. The letter didn't become public until February 1869. O'Farrell's sister also petitioned the Governor, arguing that her brother was insane and had nothing to do with the Fenians. The Executive Council met on the evening of 6 April, the night the Prince sailed, and let the sentence stand.

The Galatea left Sydney in early April. The National Museum of Australia dates the sailing to 4 April, while Wikipedia puts the Prince's departure on 6 April. He reached Spithead on 26 June 1868, seventeen months after he'd set out.

The Hanging at Darlinghurst

O'Farrell was hanged inside Darlinghurst Gaol at nine o'clock on the morning of 21 April 1868, just forty days after the shooting. The newspapers said he met his death "with the most imperturbable nerve and firmness". He was buried in the Catholic section of Rookwood Cemetery.

Aerial photograph of Darlinghurst Gaol about 1930
Darlinghurst Gaol from the air about 1930, after it had closed as a prison. Adam.J.W.C., Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Instead of a speech from the scaffold he left a written statement, and it caused a row of its own. When Parliament asked to see it, Parkes said Cabinet would have to consider it first. The next day William Macleay read out a copy in the Assembly anyway. In it O'Farrell took back his Fenian story, saying he "had not the slightest foundation" for claiming others were ready to do the deed, and that he had "no foundation for stating that there was a Fenian organisation in New South Wales." The ADB quotes his own explanation: "From continually thinking and talking of … 'the wrongs of Ireland', I became excited and filled with enthusiasm for the subject, and it was then under the influence of those feelings that I attempted to perpetrate the deed for which I am now justly called upon to suffer." Nobody ever found out how the copy got out of the gaol.

The ADB's verdict is blunt. It says the excitement around the crime "made a fair trial impossible", and that the Prince's efforts to save O'Farrell "support the view that the correct verdict would have been not guilty because of insanity." It also calls the shooting an important factor in sharpening sectarianism in the colony. The family's story had one more twist: on 21 August 1882 Henry's brother Peter shot at Archbishop Goold at Brighton in Victoria.

Royal Prince Alfred Hospital

Sydney wanted something lasting to mark the Prince's recovery. At a public meeting called by the Mayor, the city resolved to raise "a permanent and substantial monument" by public subscription, and settled on a hospital to be called Prince Alfred's Hospital. Wikipedia's O'Farrell article dates that meeting to 20 March, and its article on Alfred to 23 March. The plan was first to build it on the Sydney Infirmary site in Macquarie Street, but the Infirmary's board turned the idea down.

The RPA Hospital administration building flanked by its pavilions, Camperdown
Royal Prince Alfred Hospital, Camperdown. The main administration building stands between the Victoria and Albert Pavilions, which are on the NSW State Heritage Register. Collywolly, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Parliament passed an Act incorporating Prince Alfred Hospital on 3 April 1873, and Thomas Holt was its founder and director from 1873 to 1883. The Mansfield Brothers designed the buildings, work on the Administration Building and the first pavilions started in 1876, and the hospital opened in Camperdown in 1882. The Dictionary of Sydney says the Prince allowed his coat of arms to be used as the hospital's crest. In 1903 King Edward VII granted the title "Royal", and it has been Royal Prince Alfred, or RPA, ever since. The Victoria and Albert Pavilions, designed by Walter Liberty Vernon and finished in 1904, were also built to commemorate the Prince's royal visit.

The Victoria Pavilion at RPA Hospital
The Victoria Pavilion at RPA, designed by Walter Liberty Vernon and completed in 1904. Collywolly, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Melbourne raised money in the same way, and the National Museum of Australia notes that the Alfred Hospital there opened in 1871. In Sydney, Prince Alfred Park and a street at Circular Quay were also named after him. As for Lucy Osburn, she stayed on and, in the ADB's words, "successfully established trained nursing on Nightingale principles in New South Wales" before she resigned in 1884.

Clontarf Today

Clontarf stayed a cheap and fairly out-of-the-way spot for a long time. During the 1930s Depression a tent city of several hundred people grew up on Clontarf Reserve, in tents made of hessian coated with whitewash, lime and fat to keep the rain out. During the Second World War beachfront blocks went for £100, and people said "you couldn't even give it away". It only became easy to reach after the new Spit Bridge opened in November 1958, and in 1960 the beach was washed away by the tsunami from the Chilean earthquake.

The Dictionary of Sydney says a Norfolk Island pine, planted to mark the place where the Duke was shot, still stands in Holmes Avenue. The yachtsman Ben Lexcen, who designed the winged keel of Australia II, had premises next to the Clontarf marina. In 2021 Transport for NSW named one of its new Manly ferries Clontarf.

Clontarf Beach seen from the Spit to Manly walk
Clontarf Beach today, seen from the Spit to Manly walk. Dragonfly27356, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Timeline

  • About 1833: Henry James O'Farrell is born at Arran Quay, Dublin. The family reaches Melbourne early in 1841.
  • 6 August 1844: Prince Alfred is born at Windsor Castle.
  • 1866: Alfred is made Duke of Edinburgh and is in command of HMS Galatea.
  • January 1867: O'Farrell has a serious mental breakdown at Ballarat.
  • 31 October 1867: The Prince lands at Glenelg, South Australia. It is Australia's first royal tour.
  • November 1867: There is a sectarian shooting and riot during the Melbourne visit.
  • 21 January 1868: The Galatea arrives in Sydney.
  • 5 March 1868: Lucy Osburn and her Nightingale sisters reach Sydney (ADB date).
  • 11 March 1868: O'Farrell practises pistol shooting at Waverley.
  • 12 March 1868: At the Sailors' Home picnic at Clontarf, O'Farrell shoots the Prince in the back.
  • 13 March 1868: An indignation meeting in Hyde Park draws up to 20,000 people, and O'Farrell's preliminary hearing begins.
  • 18 March 1868: Parkes visits O'Farrell, and the Treason Felony Act passes in a single day.
  • 20 or 23 March 1868: A public meeting resolves to build Prince Alfred's Hospital.
  • 30 March 1868: The trial is held before Justice Cheeke, and O'Farrell is found guilty and sentenced to death.
  • 5 April 1868: The Prince writes to Lord Belmore asking that O'Farrell's life be spared.
  • Early April 1868: The Prince sails for England, and the Executive Council confirms the sentence.
  • 21 April 1868: O'Farrell is hanged at Darlinghurst Gaol.
  • 26 June 1868: The Prince reaches Spithead.
  • September 1868: Parkes resigns as Colonial Secretary.
  • February 1869: The Macleay committee finds no Fenian conspiracy, and its report is expunged.
  • 3 April 1873: Parliament passes the Act incorporating Prince Alfred Hospital.
  • 1882: Prince Alfred Hospital opens at Camperdown.
  • 30 July 1900: Alfred dies at Coburg as reigning Duke of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha.
  • 1903: Edward VII grants the title "Royal".

Where the Sources Disagree

  • Who grabbed O'Farrell, and who was shot in the foot: Wikipedia's O'Farrell and Alfred articles say William Vial pinned O'Farrell's arms or wrested the gun away, and that George Thorne was hit in the foot by the second shot. The National Museum of Australia says "a Mr Thorne" tackled O'Farrell and wrestled the weapon off him.
  • Why the wound was slight: The Dictionary of Sydney says the bullet glanced off his ribs. Wikipedia's Alfred article says it ricocheted off a metal clip on his braces, and its Clontarf article says it struck where his India-rubber braces crossed.
  • Lucy Osburn's arrival: The ADB says she reached Sydney on 5 March 1868. Wikipedia's Alfred article says February 1868.
  • The hospital meeting: Wikipedia's O'Farrell article dates the public meeting to 20 March, and its Alfred article to 23 March.
  • When the Prince sailed: The National Museum of Australia gives 4 April. Wikipedia's O'Farrell article says the Prince left Sydney on 6 April, the evening the Executive Council met.
  • The Prince's words: The National Museum of Australia gives "Good God, I am shot … My back is broken", Government House gives "Good God, my back is broken", and Wikipedia gives "My back is broken".
  • The pistol: The National Museum calls it a double-barrelled pistol, and Wikipedia calls it a revolver.
  • Peter O'Farrell's fall: The ADB dates his libel case and flight to 1864. Wikipedia puts the libel trial in February 1863 and has him gone from Victoria by early 1864.

My Earlier Posts

Sources

Wednesday, October 7, 2026

John Knatchbull and the Murder of Ellen Jamieson – Sydney, 1844

On a Saturday night in January 1844, a widow named Ellen Jamieson was keeping her little shop open late on the corner of Kent Street and Margaret Place in Sydney. Her two young children were asleep upstairs. Just before midnight a man came in asking for vinegar, and a few minutes later a neighbour across the road heard a terrible noise from inside. The man was John Knatchbull, a former Royal Navy commander from one of the best-known families in Kent, by then a ticket-of-leave convict with a long record behind him. Ellen died of her injuries twelve days later. Knatchbull was tried, found guilty, and on 13 February 1844 he became the first man hanged at the new Darlinghurst Gaol, in front of one of the biggest crowds Sydney had ever seen.

I've mentioned Knatchbull briefly in my post on Darlinghurst Gaol & Darlinghurst Court, and he heads the list in my page on the Hangings at Darlinghurst Gaol, but his story deserves a page of its own. It takes in a baronet's household in Kent, the Napoleonic Wars, a pickpocketing charge at Vauxhall Gardens, the Bathurst road, Norfolk Island, and finally a courtroom where his barrister tried a defence no colonial judge had heard before. Most of all, though, it is about Ellen Jamieson and the two children she left behind, and I've tried to keep them in view the whole way through.

Lithograph portrait of John Knatchbull, 1844
John Knatchbull, from an 1844 lithograph now held by the National Portrait Gallery in Canberra. Credit: Unknown artist, National Portrait Gallery, Canberra, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

A Baronet's Son from Kent

Even Knatchbull's birth year isn't settled. The Australian Dictionary of Biography gives "1792?" and says he was probably the John Knatchbull baptised on 24 January 1793 at Norton, near Provender, in Kent. His biographer Colin Roderick, whose 1963 book is the standard account, puts his birth in 1789. The plate on his coffin in 1844 read "aged fifty-six". So take your pick, but somewhere between about 1787 and 1793.

His father was Sir Edward Knatchbull (1758–1819), 8th Baronet, of Mersham Hatch in Kent, and his mother was Sir Edward's second wife, Frances, daughter of Thomas Graham. The ADB describes Sir Edward as "a rollicking squire who married three times and had at least twenty children". John was a younger son in a very crowded house. According to Roderick (as summarised on Wikipedia), his mother died in 1799, and the children were left in the care of a governess. He went to school at Ashford and later to Dr Charles Burney's school at Greenwich, and the ADB says he also went to Winchester.

Oil sketch of Sir Edward Knatchbull and his family by John Singleton Copley, 1800 to 1803
John Singleton Copley's oil sketch for his big portrait of Sir Edward Knatchbull, 8th Baronet, with his children, painted between 1800 and 1803. John was still a boy then and is probably one of them, though I can't tell you which figure he is. Credit: John Singleton Copley, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

When Sir Edward died in 1819 the baronetcy went to John's elder half-brother, also Sir Edward Knatchbull, who followed his father into Parliament. That half-brother's name will come up again, right at the end of the story, on the papers found in John's pockets.

The Navy, and How It Ended

In August 1804, as a boy, Knatchbull joined the Royal Navy as a volunteer, the usual way in for a gentleman's younger son. Over the next few years he served in a string of ships: the ADB lists the Ardent, Revenge, Zealand, Sybille, Téméraire, Leonidas, Cumberland, Ocean and Ajax. He passed his lieutenant's examination in November 1810 and served in the Shearwater off Spain until he was invalided home in August 1812.

In December 1813 he was commissioned to command the sloop Doterel in the West Indies, but he missed the ship. Roderick's research found that he went down with yellow fever in Barbados while trying to catch up with her. He was reappointed to the Doterel in September 1814, and in 1815 he brought her from Bermuda by way of the Azores back to Portsmouth. Then came Waterloo, the navy was cut back hard, and Knatchbull was retired on half-pay.

What finished his naval career wasn't a battle. It was a wine bill. While the Doterel was at the Azores in April 1815 he had run up a debt with the British vice-consul at Fayal, Thomas Parkin, and the bills he gave in payment were not honoured. Parkin complained to the Admiralty, and in 1818, as the ADB puts it, his pay "was stopped by the Admiralty because of a debt he had incurred in the Azores". Roderick found that the Admiralty decided his "conduct was unbecoming the character of an officer" and took his name off the navy list. I couldn't find any record of a court-martial. For what it's worth, the Sydney paper The Australian told a different story in 1844, claiming he was dismissed from the service for tyranny. I've found nothing in the official record to back that up.

"John Fitch" at Vauxhall Gardens

Not much is known about his life between 1818 and 1824. In his own memoir he claimed he fought in South America, but there's no proof of it. What is certain is that on the evening of 30 June 1824, at a crowded fireworks night at Vauxhall Gardens in London, a gentleman named de Dompierre found that his coat pocket had been cut and his pocket-book taken. A man calling himself John Fitch was already in police hands on suspicion of picking pockets, and he had a blank cheque and several sovereigns on him.

"Fitch" was tried at the Surrey Assizes in Guildford in August 1824. The ADB and The Times report give the date as 21 August, while the ship's muster for the convict transport (quoted by Museums of History NSW) says 19 August. The Times reported that the judge, Justice Burrough, "perfectly knew who" the prisoner really was. He was found guilty of what the ADB calls "stealing with force and arms" and was sentenced to transportation for fourteen years.

Transported to New South Wales

Knatchbull sailed on the convict ship Asia and arrived in Sydney in April 1825; Roderick gives the date as 29 April. He was sent to Bathurst, where official records called him "John Fitch" or "John Fitch, alias Knatchbull". In November 1826 he was made a constable to the mail service, carrying the mail on foot between Bathurst and Mount York. He was given a ticket-of-leave on 24 August 1829 after helping to catch eight runaway convicts. His ticket was then moved to Liverpool, and by 1831 he was an overseer on the Parramatta Road.

For a while it looked as if he might settle down. He didn't. In December 1831 he paid for clothes at Charles Bailey's shop in George Street with a cheque signed, supposedly, by Judge James Dowling. The cheque was a forgery. Bailey later spotted him in the market and had him arrested. On 22 February 1832 the Supreme Court found him guilty and sentence of death was recorded against him. It was commuted to seven years at Norfolk Island.

The forged cheque in the name of Judge James Dowling, 1831
The forged cheque, made out in Judge James Dowling's name, that was used as evidence against Knatchbull in February 1832. Credit: State Records of New South Wales (now Museums of History NSW), public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Norfolk Island: Poison and Mutiny

Knatchbull spent several months on the prison hulk Phoenix in Sydney Harbour before sailing for Norfolk Island on the Governor Phillip in October 1832. During the voyage some of the convicts plotted to poison the crew and guards and seize the ship, with Knatchbull, the one man aboard who could navigate, meant to sail her to South America. The plot was betrayed and failed. The ADB records it simply as "a conspiracy... to poison the ship's company".

On the island he had a stroke in 1833 that left him partly paralysed. In January 1834, when a large group of convicts rose against the guards, Knatchbull said he was too ill to take part, though he had offered to command a ship if they captured one. When the rising was put down, he turned informer for the acting commandant, Captain Foster Fyans. At the trials that followed, twenty-nine men were sentenced to death, and the judge, William Burton, gave Fyans a serve for taking Knatchbull's confession. The ADB quotes him:

"He was the chief of the mutineers, the man you should have named first in the Calendar. You have saved his life, or prolonged it. He never can do good."

Keep Justice Burton in mind. Ten years later, he would be the judge at Knatchbull's murder trial.

Port Macquarie, the Ticket-of-Leave, and Back to Sydney

Knatchbull's Norfolk Island sentence came on top of his original fourteen years, so when he got back to Sydney in May 1839 he still had time to serve. He was in poor health and was sent to Port Macquarie as an invalid. Roderick says he was later put in charge of the punt across the Hastings River. On 8 July 1842 he received a new ticket-of-leave, and in July 1843 it was altered to Sydney so he could work on the coaster Harriet for its owner, Thomas Lewis.

John Rae watercolour of Hyde Park with Darlinghurst Gaol in the distance, 1842
Hyde Park, Museum, Darlinghurst Gaol, Sydney Grammar School, Burdekin's and Lyons' Terraces, 1842, by John Rae. This was the Sydney Knatchbull came back to. Credit: John Rae, State Library of New South Wales, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

By the end of 1843 Lewis was insolvent and Knatchbull was out of work. He was lodging with Charles Hollowell in Clarence Lane, and he told Hollowell he owned the Harriet and was only waiting for her to be sold to pay his rent. He had also become engaged to a young widow named Harriet Craig, who had introduced him to Hollowell as a free man. The wedding was very close. His barrister said in court that it was to be the next morning; The Dispatch, as quoted by the Dictionary of Sydney, said the Monday. Either way, he had no money to pay for it.

Saturday Night, 6 January 1844

Ellen Jamieson ran a small shop from her home on the corner of Kent Street and Margaret Place, a few streets back from the harbour. That's how the Sydney Morning Herald described the location in its trial report. The Dictionary of Sydney puts her home in Erskine Street, which is close by, but I've gone with the address given in the 1844 papers. She had been widowed just over a year earlier, when her husband Robert, a steward on the Rose steamer and a native of Glasgow, died in December 1842. She had two small children, Mary, known as Polly, and Robert, known as Bobby. Her age isn't certain: the Herald reporter at the inquest thought she was about 30, while Wikipedia, citing her NSW death record, gives 35. Neighbours said she did a good trade, and one woman told the inquest that Ellen often changed banknotes for her. People knew she had money in the house.

John Shalless, a builder who lived opposite in Margaret Place, wasn't well that night. At about ten o'clock his wife warned him that a boy had seen a suspicious-looking man hanging about. Shalless went out onto his verandah and watched him walk up and down outside Mrs Jamieson's shop for more than an hour and a half. He saw the man go in and out, sit on the kerb, and throw something at her little white dog. At about twenty to twelve a customer, Mrs Elizabeth Brown, went into the shop and found a man behind the door "getting some vinegar". He bade them both good night and left.

A few minutes later Ellen came to her door, wiping her hands, and the man stepped up, spoke to her and followed her in, pushing the door shut behind him. Shalless told his wife, "I hope he does not mean to rob her." Then he heard the door slam and something fall. He ran across the road and found the door locked, and from inside he heard what he described as "some strokes given as of some one breaking a cocoanut with a hammer". He saw a light moving upstairs and the man pulling back the blind to look out.

Shalless asked a private watchman for help and was told, "Well, what is that to me?" So he roused the neighbours himself. While some watched the front, others broke in the back door. They found Ellen lying unconscious and bleeding heavily from wounds to her head, and the man standing behind the front door. He didn't fight. As they grabbed him he called out, "O! don't strike me." Constable Bryan Norton took him to the watch-house. Upstairs, the neighbours found Ellen's two children in bed, crying.

The weapon took a while to find. About two hours later Mrs Jaques, a neighbour, lifted the mattress on Ellen's bed and found a tomahawk hidden between the mattress and the battens, with fresh blood on it. Charles Hollowell knew it at once. It was his, and it had been lying in his back yard, where his lodger could get at it.

At the station Inspector Molloy searched the prisoner. In his trousers and pockets were a woman's pocket, which looked as if it had been torn from her clothes, and money totalling £17 2s 8d. He also had three bills of exchange for £50 each, made out to be drawn on his half-brother, Sir Edward Knatchbull, along with three blank ones. There was blood on his trousers and on his boots.

Twelve Days

Ellen Jamieson didn't die that night. The surgeon, Mr Jones, found several fractures of her skull. Her neighbours nursed her for twelve days, and she died between seven and eight o'clock on the morning of Thursday 18 January 1844. Mrs Brown, who used to do her mangling and mending, was with her at the end.

The inquest was held the same day at M'Kenzie's public house on the corner of Clarence Street and Margaret Place. Knatchbull was there and cross-examined the witnesses himself. The jury took about a minute to return a verdict of wilful murder, and the coroner made a point of praising Shalless "for the praiseworthy manner in which he had acted". The Herald said four or five hundred people waited outside. When Knatchbull was bundled into a hackney coach to go back to gaol, the crowd hooted and hissed.

The Trial: 24 January 1844

Knatchbull came to trial in the Supreme Court only six days after the inquest, on Wednesday 24 January 1844, before Justice William Burton, the same judge who had dealt with him on Norfolk Island. The Attorney-General, John Plunkett, prosecuted. His barrister was Robert Lowe, a newcomer to the colony who would later become a well-known figure in British politics.

Woodcut of John Knatchbull in court, 1844
"Knatchbull, as he appeared on his Trial", a woodcut from the booklet The Life of J. Knatchbull, published in Sydney in 1844. Credit: Unknown artist, H. Evers (publisher), State Library of New South Wales, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Lowe started on the indictment itself. Knatchbull had been charged as "John Fitch alias John Knatchbull", and Lowe objected to the name. The court amended the indictment to "John Knatchbull" only, and he pleaded not guilty. Lowe then asked for the trial to be put off, saying a settler from the Clarence River named John Tattersal could give Knatchbull an alibi. Justice Burton refused, as the affidavit didn't say clearly what Tattersal could prove.

The Crown's witnesses told the same story they had told at the inquest. Then Lowe did something unusual. He didn't really argue that Knatchbull hadn't done it. Instead he told the jury that even if every witness was right, Knatchbull was one of those people "for whom laws had not been made". Insanity, he said, could affect the will without touching the intellect, so that a man could know perfectly well what he was doing and still be driven to it by something he couldn't resist. He pointed to the recent M'Naghten case in England. He asked how a man born into a noble family, with every advantage, could have "fallen, step by step, into the lowest depths of disgrace, unless urged on by some resistless demon of insanity". And he asked why a man about to be married would do such a thing, when he had bills on his brother in his pocket that he could have cashed.

This was what came to be called the plea of "moral insanity". The ADB says Lowe raised it "for the first time in a British court", and the Dictionary of Sydney calls it the first time insanity ideas like these were tested in an Australian court. What we do know for sure is what Justice Burton said. He told the jury it was "the first time he (the Judge) had ever heard a doctrine of this kind broached in a Court of Justice", and that it had no place in the law of England, "nor... either in common sense or morality". Lowe had no witnesses to back it up. The two men he called, the Colonial Surgeon Patrick Harnett and a priest who had known Knatchbull in 1817 and 1818, both said they had never been in a position to judge his state of mind.

On motive, Burton told the jury that the money found on the prisoner, if they believed it came from Ellen's house and person, gave them "a probable motive for his conduct". In other words, robbery.

Vanity Fair caricature of Robert Lowe, 1869
Robert Lowe, Knatchbull's barrister, as Vanity Fair saw him in 1869, by which time he was a big name in British politics. Credit: Carlo Pellegrini, Vanity Fair, 27 February 1869, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Verdict and Sentence

The jury found him guilty without even leaving the box. Asked if he had anything to say, Knatchbull spoke of his upbringing and his naval service, claiming he had been in "twenty-one general engagements" and received "eleven wounds", and asked whether such a man would murder "a defenceless woman". Justice Burton sentenced him to death. He told Knatchbull that he had complained of too little time to prepare for his trial, yet he had given the woman he killed far less time to prepare for hers before her Maker.

Before the court rose, Plunkett suggested that the money found on Knatchbull should go to Ellen's children, and Burton agreed to recommend that it be placed in the Savings Bank for them. He also had harsh words for the police, who hadn't marked the tomahawk or the pocket as evidence, and for the watchman who had refused to help. "The public were mainly indebted to Mr. Shalless," he said.

The Appeal and the Plea for Mercy

Lowe wasn't finished. A few days after the trial he went back to the Supreme Court arguing that the sentence was illegal, because the judge hadn't directed that Knatchbull's body be dissected after execution (or, as Wikipedia summarises the petition, buried within the prison). The ADB says the appeal failed, and Wikipedia says the judges gave their decision on 1 February 1844.

There was one more try. According to Roderick, an attorney named Parry Long put a submission to the Governor, Sir George Gipps, on 8 February asking that a petition go to Queen Victoria. On 10 February Knatchbull was told it had failed. The Australian also reported that his two nephews in Sydney had kept him supplied with comforts in gaol and had "used every exertion" to save him. The Sheriff's Office, meanwhile, was writing to the Colonial Secretary on 6 February asking for extra armed guards for the execution. That letter is now in the NSW State Archives collection.

The Confession

Right up to the last weekend, Knatchbull denied the murder. Then he signed a short written confession, which The Australian printed:

"Condemned Cell, Woolloomooloo Gaol, 10th February, 1844. In the name of the Almighty God, Amen. I am guilty of the horrid deed for which I am to suffer death; and may the Lord have mercy on my soul. Amen. JOHN KNATCHBULL."

The papers didn't agree on exactly when or to whom he confessed. The Australian linked it to the "condemned sermon" on the Sunday, while The Dispatch said he confessed fully to Henry Keck, the keeper of the gaol, on the Monday night. The Dispatch added that he said he could not account for what had driven him to it. He also spent his last weeks writing the story of his life, finishing it on the morning of his execution and handing the manuscript to the gaol's governor.

Portrait of Henry Keck, Governor of the Gaol, 1847
Henry Keck, Governor of the gaol at Darlinghurst, drawn in 1847. Knatchbull wrote his life story in Keck's gaol and gave him the manuscript. Credit: William Nicholas, National Library of Australia, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

13 February 1844: The Hanging at Darlinghurst

The gaol at Darlinghurst had only been taking prisoners since 1841, and Knatchbull was the first man hanged there, and the first to go to a gallows built outside its walls, in full public view. Hangings had been public in Sydney for decades, but this was a new stage for them. The Dispatch said it stood "in front of the north gate", on ground so high it "could be seen from almost any part of Sydney". The ADB entry for the hangman puts it "outside the main gate". In my Darlinghurst Gaol post I placed the early public hangings at the main gate on Forbes Street.

People began walking across the Racecourse (today's Hyde Park) from six in the morning: men, women and children, on foot and in carts and carriages. Mounted police and soldiers kept the crowd back behind a chain. The crowd figures vary even within a single newspaper. The Australian's main report estimated "about ten thousand", but a second account printed in the same issue reckoned "between four and five thousand". Later writers, including the Dictionary of Sydney, have gone with more than ten thousand. Either way, it was an enormous number of people for a town the size of Sydney in 1844.

Sketch of the crowd at the execution of John Knatchbull outside Darlinghurst Gaol, 1844
"Woolloomooloo Gaol", Execution of John Knatchbull: the crowd outside the gaol on 13 February 1844. Credit: Artist unknown, State Library of New South Wales, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Just before nine the Sheriff, Keck and Captain Innes went to the condemned cell. Knatchbull walked out between the gaol chaplain, the Rev. Mr Elder, and the Rev. Mr Sharpe of Bathurst, joining in the burial service as it was read. He was dressed in a mourning suit with black gloves and held a white handkerchief. At the foot of the scaffold he knelt and prayed for about five minutes. Then he climbed up, helped by the executioner, Alexander Green, the colony's long-serving hangman. The ADB entry on Green calls this the most famous of the executions he carried out at Darlinghurst.

The cap was drawn over his face. The Australian heard him saying, "Lord have mercy on my soul! Christ have mercy on my soul!" when the bolt was drawn. The two papers don't agree about what happened next. The Australian's second account suggests death came quickly, but The Dispatch reported that the knot had slipped round to the back of his neck, "and the struggles of expiring strength were long and painful". Both said the crowd was quiet throughout. There was no jeering, and afterwards people simply went home.

Illustration of the scaffold outside Darlinghurst Gaol for the Knatchbull execution, published 1897
The scaffold outside Darlinghurst Gaol for Knatchbull's hanging, as drawn for the Truth newspaper more than fifty years later, on 8 August 1897. Credit: Unknown artist, Truth (Sydney), public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Afterwards

Before his body was handed over to his family, a cast was taken of his head and face "for phrenological purposes", watched by many of Sydney's doctors. On 28 February The True Sun printed a woodcut of the cast. Early on the Wednesday morning a hearse and mourning coach took the coffin to what The Dispatch called "the Dissenting burial ground". The plate on it read "John Knatchbull, aged fifty-six". The Rev. Dr Ross of the Independent Chapel read the service. The mourners were two gentlemen and two ladies in deep mourning, and one more woman in black who stood apart from them.

What Became of Ellen Jamieson's Children

This is the part of the story I find hardest to read. Polly and Bobby Jamieson had lost their father in December 1842 and their mother in January 1844. A committee was formed to collect money for them, and its members included the Presbyterian minister Dr John Dunmore Lang and John Shalless, the neighbour who had raised the alarm. Lists for donations were left at the banks and on board the Hunter's River steamer.

Then, on 8 March 1844, Robert Lowe, Knatchbull's own barrister, applied to the Supreme Court to be made the children's guardian. The application was unopposed and was granted by the Chief Justice, Sir James Dowling, the same judge whose name Knatchbull had forged on that cheque back in 1831. Lang was furious that the man who had tried to save the murderer was now raising the victim's children, and he attacked Lowe in print.

The children lived in the Lowe household, and Wikipedia's account, drawing on Lowe's biographers, says their place there was somewhere between adopted children and servants. When the Lowes sailed for England on the Kate in January 1850, Polly and Bobby went with them. After that the accounts don't agree. A biography of Lowe from 1893 says Polly died young, soon after reaching England, and that Bobby went on to serve in New Zealand. A later biography from 1976 says Bobby died young in an asylum, and that Polly probably married and came back to Australia. I can't tell you which is right, and I'd rather leave it there than guess.

How Sydney Remembered Him

Sydney couldn't get enough of the story at the time. In the days before the execution a King Street printer advertised a lithograph of "John Knatchbull, the Murderer; and Mrs. Ellen Jamieson, his Victim" for a shilling. The Sydney Morning Herald grumbled that "the sooner he is forgotten the better". Four days after the hanging a booklet called The Life of J. Knatchbull was on sale, and the State Library of NSW still holds a copy. Roderick later wrote that many of the versions that followed painted Knatchbull "as a monster of bloody appetites". His own manuscript life story was eventually published in Roderick's 1963 biography, John Knatchbull: From Quarterdeck to Gallows. More than fifty years on, in 1897, the Truth newspaper was still printing pictures of his scaffold.

For the law, Lowe's "moral insanity" defence is still the part people write about, and it has been studied as an early attempt to bring that idea into an Australian courtroom. For Darlinghurst, Knatchbull was the first of the many people hanged at the gaol. The walls are still there in Forbes Street, and these days they're full of art students rather than prisoners.

The sandstone entrance of the former Darlinghurst Gaol, now the National Art School
The sandstone entrance of the former Darlinghurst Gaol, now the National Art School. Credit: Sardaka, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

For me, the people worth remembering from that Saturday night are John Shalless, who wouldn't look away when the watchman did, the neighbours who broke down the back door, the women who nursed Ellen for twelve days, and Ellen Jamieson herself, a hard-working widow trying to keep a roof over two little children in 1840s Sydney.

Timeline

  • c.1789–1793 – John Knatchbull born in Kent; the ADB says probably baptised at Norton on 24 January 1793, while Roderick gives 1789.
  • August 1804 – Joins the Royal Navy as a volunteer.
  • November 1810 – Passes his lieutenant's examination.
  • 1814–1815 – Commands the sloop Doterel; retired on half-pay after Waterloo.
  • 1818 – Half-pay stopped over the Azores debt, and his name is removed from the navy list.
  • 30 June 1824 – Arrested at Vauxhall Gardens, London, as "John Fitch".
  • August 1824 – Convicted at the Surrey Assizes and sentenced to fourteen years' transportation.
  • April 1825 – Arrives in Sydney on the Asia; sent to Bathurst.
  • 24 August 1829 – First ticket-of-leave.
  • 22 February 1832 – Convicted of forging Judge Dowling's name; death recorded, commuted to seven years on Norfolk Island.
  • October 1832 – Poison plot on the Governor Phillip fails.
  • January 1834 – Norfolk Island rising; Knatchbull turns informer.
  • May 1839 – Returns to Sydney; later sent to Port Macquarie.
  • 8 July 1842 – New ticket-of-leave, altered to Sydney in July 1843.
  • Saturday 6 January 1844 – Ellen Jamieson attacked in her shop near midnight; Knatchbull caught inside.
  • Thursday 18 January 1844 – Ellen Jamieson dies; inquest returns wilful murder.
  • Wednesday 24 January 1844 – Trial before Justice Burton; guilty; sentenced to death.
  • 1 February 1844 – Appeal over the wording of the sentence rejected.
  • 10 February 1844 – Petition for mercy fails; written confession signed.
  • Tuesday 13 February 1844 – Hanged outside Darlinghurst Gaol.
  • 8 March 1844 – Robert Lowe appointed guardian of the Jamieson children.
  • January 1850 – The Lowes leave for England with Polly and Bobby.





Sources