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Showing posts with label Kings Cross. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kings Cross. Show all posts

Thursday, October 15, 2026

Juanita Nielsen – Kings Cross Publisher, Victoria Street Green Ban Campaigner and Her Disappearance from the Carousel Cabaret – 4 July 1975

Portrait of Juanita Nielsen
Juanita Nielsen (1937–1975), publisher of NOW and campaigner for Victoria Street. Jean-no, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

On the morning of Friday 4 July 1975, Juanita Nielsen walked into the Carousel Cabaret in Roslyn Street, Kings Cross, to talk about an advertising deal for her little local paper, NOW. She was 38, an heiress to the Mark Foy's department store fortune, and for the past few years she'd been one of the loudest voices against the plan to knock down the old terraces of Victoria Street and put up high-rise towers. She was never seen again. Her handbag turned up by a freeway out west, two men from the club later went to jail for plotting to kidnap her a few days earlier, and a coroner's jury in 1983 found she'd died on or shortly after that day. Nobody has ever been charged with her murder, and her body has never been found.

This is one of Sydney's great unsolved crimes, and it sits right in the middle of a fight over what kind of city we wanted to be: the green bans, the builders labourers, the squatters, the developers and the Kings Cross underworld. Below is the story as best the sources tell it, and where they don't agree, I've said so.

Who Was Juanita Nielsen?

A Foy by birth

She was born Juanita Joan Smith on 22 April 1937 at New Lambton, Newcastle. Her father, Neil Donovan Smith, was English-born and heir to the fortune of Kathleen Sophia Foy, and her mother was Vilma Grace, née Meares. The Australian Dictionary of Biography calls Juanita a great-granddaughter of Mark Foy and says her father was a major shareholder in Mark Foy's Ltd. Wikipedia fills in the family tree a bit more: Neil's parents were John Joseph Smith, chairman and managing director of Mark Foy's, and Kathleen Sophie Foy, a sister of the store's founders Mark and Francis Foy.

Her parents split up soon after she was born and she grew up at Killara on the North Shore. She went to several schools, including Ravenswood at Gordon, passed her Intermediate certificate in 1952, and then went to work at Mark Foy's as a glove model before heading overseas in 1959.

Mark Foy around 1910
Mark Foy (1865–1950) in about 1910. Juanita was descended from the Foy family that built the store. Unknown author, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Mark Foy's building in Liverpool Street
The old Mark Foy's building in Liverpool Street, now the Downing Centre. Juanita worked here as a glove model and later ran a boutique in the store. g_kat26, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Abroad, then back to the store

While she was away she married Jorgen Fritz Nielsen, a Danish merchant seaman. The ADB says they had a Shinto ceremony at Kobe City in Japan in 1962. They divorced in 1967. After living in Morocco and Denmark she came back to Sydney alone in 1965 and opened the "Gear Box" fashion boutique in Mark Foy's city store.

In 1968 she fell out with her father for a while after leading an unsuccessful shareholders' revolt against a $4 million takeover offer for Mark Foy's by McDowell's Ltd. Once they'd patched things up, he bought her a terrace house in Victoria Street, Kings Cross, and a local newspaper called NOW, which she ran from home.

202 Victoria Street and the Newspaper NOW

Juanita Nielsen's house at 202 Victoria Street
Juanita Nielsen's house at 202 Victoria Street. It's now on the NSW State Heritage Register. Sardaka, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Her house was 202 Victoria Street, one of a group of three terraces built in the 1850s on part of the old Telford Lodge estate, according to the heritage listing quoted on Wikipedia. The house is on the New South Wales State Heritage Register.

NOW came out fortnightly, put together at the house with the help of her business partner David Farrell. Juanita had style. The ADB says she wore distinctive clothes and a "beehive" wig and modelled the fashions and hairstyles for the paper's feature pages herself. She also used it to run what the ADB calls "a vigorous editorial campaign" for the green bans and against the Victoria Street redevelopment.

Front of 202 Victoria Street
202 Victoria Street, photographed in 2012. Governor Macquarie, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Fight for Victoria Street

Frank Theeman's plan

From the late 1960s, developers were quietly buying up most of Victoria Street, says the Dictionary of Sydney. The big one was Frank Theeman (born Franz Wilhelm Thiemann in 1913, died 1989), an Austrian-born developer whose company was Victoria Point Pty Ltd. According to Wikipedia, the plan was three 45-storey apartment towers and a 15-storey office block, which meant knocking down everything that was there. The ABC describes it the same way: the Victorian terraces would go and three high-rise apartment blocks would go up in their place.

For the people living there, many of them working people on low rents, it meant eviction. The Dictionary of Sydney notes that the National Trust had tried to get Sydney City Council to protect the houses and got nowhere.

Victoria Street, Potts Point
Victoria Street, Potts Point, in 2011. The old streetscape survived, though not all of it. hasitha_tudugalle, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The residents, the BLF and the green ban

The locals organised a residents' action group and went to the NSW branch of the Builders Labourers Federation, led by Jack Mundey, Joe Owens and Bob Pringle. The BLF's green bans were simple: union members wouldn't work on a job the community didn't want. They'd already been used to save Kelly's Bush, The Rocks and Centennial Park.

The union put a green ban on Victoria Street, which stopped the demolitions. The date of that ban depends on which source you read, as I explain further down. Nielsen joined the Victoria Street Ratepayers Association, lodged her own objection with the council, and threw NOW behind the campaign. With her neighbour, the seaman, jazz musician and union activist Jack "Mick" Fowler, she played what the ADB calls "a prominent role in mobilizing local residents" against the demolitions and evictions.

Jack Mundey later wrote, in his book Green Bans and Beyond (1981, as cited by Wikipedia), that Nielsen was an "upper class" person who'd started out disapproving of unionism, communism and squatting, but who came round to being more sympathetic.

Jack Mundey in 1977
Jack Mundey, the BLF leader behind the green bans, in December 1977. Tribune (Australian newspaper), CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Women of the NSW Builders Labourers Federation marching in 1975
Women of the NSW Builders Labourers Federation on the International Women's Day march in Sydney, March 1975. Tirin (takver), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Intimidation, and the kidnapping of Arthur King

Things turned nasty. In July 1973 Arthur King, who headed the residents' action group, was grabbed by two men and thrown in the boot of a car. Wikipedia, drawing on the 1994 parliamentary report, says he was held at a motel outside the city for three days and let go near the Venus Room in Kings Cross. He quit the action group and moved out of the area straight away, and because he didn't trust the police he didn't tell the real story until 1977. Peter Rees, in his 2021 book Killing Juanita (cited by Wikipedia), points to evidence that Kings Cross nightclub manager Jim Anderson was involved. The Dictionary of Sydney mentions King without naming him: "one green ban activist disappeared and returned too frightened to say what had happened to him."

Other residents were harassed by men working for Theeman to get them out. Wikipedia says these men were led by Fred Krahe, a former NSW detective sergeant reputed to be mixed up in organised crime. The Dictionary of Sydney says armed thugs vandalised Theeman-owned buildings marked for demolition and terrorised the residents. Neighbours took turns staying in each other's houses so no house was ever left empty.

A terrace house in Victoria Street
One of the Victoria Street terraces, the kind of housing the residents were fighting to keep. Governor Macquarie, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The squatters and the January 1974 evictions

As tenants were forced out, squatters moved into the empty houses to stop the demolitions going ahead with non-union labour. Mick Fowler came home from a stint at sea in 1973 to find his rented house boarded up. He moved back in and fought to stay. He lost the court case in 1976, and Wikipedia says the strain was reputed to have contributed to his early death in August 1979, aged 51.

On 3 January 1974 police moved in and evicted the squatters. Both the Dictionary of Sydney and Wikipedia give that date.

Terraced homes, Potts Point
Terraced homes towards the Potts Point end of Victoria Street. Clytemnestra, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The ban breaks, and Juanita keeps going

Late in 1974 the BLF's federal leadership took over the NSW branch and pushed out Mundey's team. The Dictionary of Sydney calls this the "Intervention," and the Victoria Street ban was lifted after it. Wikipedia goes further and says the federal leadership had been bribed by developers. That's a claim I'd treat as Wikipedia's, not proven. But Nielsen didn't give up. Wikipedia says the Federated Engine Drivers and Firemen's Association kept a ban going, and Nielsen talked the Water Board union into putting on its own ban. In 1974 she stepped up the attacks in NOW.

The pressure on Theeman was real. Rees's book, as cited by Wikipedia, has Theeman meeting Nielsen in February 1975 and failing to change her mind. By June 1975 his company's interest bill was said to be running at $16,800 a week. The ABC puts it simply: by 1975 the developer had spent millions buying up property and its debts were mounting.

At the same time a second fight was starting at Woolloomooloo, down the hill. Wikipedia says Nielsen was a member of the Woolloomooloo Residents Action Group, which began getting death threats around then.

McElhone Stairs, Potts Point
The McElhone Stairs, which run from Victoria Street down to Woolloomooloo. Clytemnestra, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
McElhone Street, Woolloomooloo
McElhone Street, Woolloomooloo. The 'Loo had its own fight with developers in the mid 1970s. Jeremy from Sydney, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Carousel Cabaret

The Carousel, which went by the name Les Girls at other times, was a drag cabaret in Roslyn Street. The ADB calls it "a transvestite nightclub and underworld haunt." Wikipedia says it was one of the clubs controlled by Abe Saffron and that it was managed by Jim Anderson. According to the 1994 parliamentary inquiry, as cited by Wikipedia, Anderson owed Theeman $260,000. Saffron's son Alan wrote in his 2008 book Gentle Satan that his father had lent big money to a number of Sydney businessmen, Theeman among them.

Abe Saffron at the Roosevelt Club, 1950
Abe Saffron at the Roosevelt Club, Kings Cross, 22 September 1950, photographed for People magazine. State Library of New South Wales, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Kings Cross in 1950
Kings Cross around 1950, a generation before the Victoria Street fight. Unknown photographer, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The approaches in June 1975

The sequence that follows comes mostly from the 1994 parliamentary report and Peter Rees's book, both as summarised on Wikipedia.

  • 13 June 1975. Anderson sent Nielsen an invitation to a press night at the club. NOW didn't give free plugs to businesses, so she wouldn't normally have been asked. She didn't go, and Anderson was said to be furious.
  • 29 June. The Carousel's PR manager, Lloyd Marshall, asked her to a meeting at the Camperdown Travelodge, supposedly about advertising. David Farrell later said she got suspicious and didn't go.
  • 30 June. Two Carousel employees, Edward "Eddie" Trigg and Shayne Martin-Simmonds, came to her front door saying they wanted to talk about advertising. Farrell answered instead. It later came out that they'd planned to grab her when she opened the door. Juanita listened from the next room. Farrell said she was by then seriously worried that her campaigning was putting her in danger, and she'd arranged to keep him told of where she was.
  • 3 July, 5.30pm. Trigg rang to set up a meeting about the club advertising in NOW. They agreed on about 10.15am the next day at the club.

NSW Police describe it the same way: during the first investigation they found information about a conspiracy to kidnap her on Monday 30 June 1975, four days before she was last seen.

Friday 4 July 1975

She went to the Carousel that morning. At 10.30am she rang Farrell to say she was running late. The NSW Police reward notice says she was last seen at the Carousel Cabaret on Roslyn Street on the morning of Friday 4 July 1975.

Farrell reported her missing to police on the Saturday. When police spoke to Trigg he confirmed the meeting, showed them a receipt she'd given him for an advance on advertising, and said she'd left for a lunch appointment. In their first statements, Trigg and the club's receptionist Loretta Crawford both said Nielsen left alone. In 1976 Crawford changed her story and said Nielsen and Trigg had left together. A local real estate agent told police he'd seen her get into a yellow car outside the club with two men in it.

Her handbag and some belongings turned up beside a freeway in western Sydney. Wikipedia says this was near Penrith on Monday 7 July, and the police didn't release the news of her disappearance to the media until 8 July. The Canberra Times reported in July 1975 that police were searching for her body, then that her cheque book had been found near the Nepean River, then that the search had spread to empty buildings around the Cross. By October 1975 a $10,000 reward was on offer.

Kings Cross at night
Kings Cross at night. Nielsen was last seen at the Carousel in Roslyn Street, just off the main drag. luke_reynolds, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Kidnapping Conspiracy Trials

In November 1977 Trigg and Shayne Simmonds (as the Canberra Times named him) were charged with conspiring to abduct Nielsen between 1 June and 4 July, and Lloyd Marshall was charged a week later. In an interview with police on 6 November 1977, as quoted on Wikipedia, Martin-Simmonds admitted the advertising story was a cover. He said the plan was to take her to see "people who wanted to talk to her," and that he didn't know who those people were.

At the 1980 trial the judge directed the jury to acquit Marshall because there was no evidence tying him to any plan to use force. The jury couldn't agree on the other two. Martin-Simmonds was retried in 1981, convicted and given two years. Trigg had skipped to the United States on a false passport. He was arrested in San Francisco in 1982, brought back, pleaded guilty and got three years in 1983.

It's worth being clear about what those convictions meant. The ADB notes that both men were convicted of conspiring to abduct her "on an earlier occasion," and "the trials did not directly involve events on the day she vanished."

The 1983 Inquest

The coronial inquest, held with a jury in 1983, was the longest in NSW history up to then, running 13 weeks and hearing 69 witnesses (figures from Peter Rees, cited by Wikipedia). Theeman denied Nielsen had been a threat to his plans. Saffron said he'd read about the disappearance in the papers and hadn't asked any further. Anderson agreed he was an obvious suspect but denied any involvement, and counsel assisting called him a "stranger to the truth." Anderson pointed the finger at Fred Krahe, who was dead by then. Counsel for the Nielsen estate argued that it would be a "very, very, unbelievable coincidence" for two separate groups to be plotting against her at the same time.

On 10 November 1983 the coroner and a jury of six found that she had died "on or shortly after 4 July 1975." They couldn't say where, how, or by whose hand. They added a line that's often quoted: there was "evidence to show that the police inquiries were inhibited by an atmosphere of corruption, real or imagined, that existed at the time."

The 1994 Parliamentary Inquiry

In 1994 the Commonwealth Parliamentary Joint Committee on the National Crime Authority reported on the NCA and Jim Anderson. The ADB says the committee "further castigated investigative ineptitude in the case and emphasized links between her presumed murder, property developers and the criminal milieu at Kings Cross." Wikipedia adds that the committee questioned the NCA's use of Anderson as a protected informer when he was a suspect in the disappearance and in other crimes.

The ABC's summary goes further. It says the committee concluded corruption had hampered the police investigation, and that corrupt Kings Cross police were alleged to have been paid by developers to look the other way. Those are the ABC's words about allegations. They aren't findings against any named officer. The ABC also points to the Wood Royal Commission of the 1990s, which uncovered widespread corruption at Kings Cross police station.

Later Claims

The story kept turning up new claims long after the inquest. None of them has been tested in court, so I've listed them as claims and named who made them.

  • Marilyn King, Trigg's former girlfriend, told a journalist that Trigg came home on 4 July 1975 with blood on his clothes and on the receipt in his pocket. She never gave evidence to the police or the inquest (reported by Peter Rees in the Good Weekend, 2015, as cited by Wikipedia).
  • Loretta Crawford said in 2000 that she'd rung Anderson at his Vaucluse home to tell him Nielsen had arrived and that he was "quite pleased." She insisted he was in Vaucluse, not at Surfers Paradise as he always said. In 2004 she told the ABC's 7.30 Report that her earlier evidence had been false to protect Anderson, who had since died. She said she'd seen Nielsen's body in the club's basement with a small gunshot wound, Trigg and Martin-Simmonds present, and a third, unnamed man holding a pistol.
  • John Glebe, her boyfriend at the time, told the inquest she'd been getting threatening phone calls and carried cassette tapes in her handbag that she said could "blow the top off" something she was working on. The ABC reports him telling the inquest she was writing an article that would have exposed the leading players in Sydney's illegal gaming industry.
  • Eddie Trigg died alone in a rented room at the Abbotts Hotel in Waterloo on 25 February 2013. The Australian reported that he'd left a written account that "named names" and said where her remains were. Police searched his room but wouldn't say what, if anything, they found.

The Rewards

The money on offer has grown over the years:

  • October 1975: a $10,000 reward for information leading to finding her (Canberra Times, 1 October 1975, listed by the ADB).
  • July 1976: her father offered $50,000 for information leading to the arrest and conviction of those responsible (Canberra Times, 3 July 1976, listed by the ADB).
  • 1982: the NSW Government announced a $50,000 reward (NSW Police).
  • 21 June 2021: the NSW Government and NSW Police announced a $1 million reward. Police Minister David Elliott said Juanita "disappeared at the prime of her life and had a lot to live for." The case has stayed open under Strike Force Euclid and has been reviewed by the Homicide Squad's Unsolved Homicide team. Homicide commander Det Supt Danny Doherty said the aim was to find her "so her family may put her to rest." Her cousin Francis Foy told the ABC that "Juanita was very much loved by her family and very much missed."

What Became of Victoria Street

The first stage of Theeman's development was finished in 1978, according to Wikipedia. The Dictionary of Sydney gives a fair summing-up. The green ban stopped the "hideous high-rise development" and saved much of the streetscape, even though a lot of the low-cost housing was lost. Wikipedia says the design was changed and some houses got heritage protection. Kings Cross railway station, which opened in 1979, was part of the same burst of building around the Cross.

Victoria Street terraces including Juanita Nielsen's house
The terraces around Juanita Nielsen's house in Victoria Street, 2010. Clytemnestra, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Entrance to Kings Cross railway station
An entrance to Kings Cross railway station on Darlinghurst Road. The station opened in 1979. Nick-D, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Her Legacy

In July 1983 the Sydney City Council opened a recreation centre in the Juanita Nielsen Building at Woolloomooloo, near where she'd lived. It's still known today as the Juanita Nielsen Community Centre. There's also a white cross for her at South Head Cemetery in Vaucluse, in front of her family's monument.

Her story has been told on screen and in print:

  • The Killing of Angel Street (1981), directed by Donald Crombie, a fictional version. Crombie later said the makers were "peculiarly warned off" while making it.
  • Heatwave (1982), directed by Phillip Noyce.
  • The Beehive (2018), an art documentary by Zanny Begg, named after her famous hairdo.
  • Killing Juanita (2021), a book by journalist Peter Rees.
  • "Hey Juanita" (2016), a song by Urthboy.

Walk down Victoria Street today past the terraces and the backpackers and it's easy to forget how close it all came to being bulldozed. A lot of what's left is there because people like Juanita Nielsen, Mick Fowler, Arthur King and the builders labourers stood in the way.

Juanita Nielsen's house in 2019
Juanita Nielsen's house, Victoria Street, in 2019. Sardaka, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
South Head Cemetery, Vaucluse
South Head Cemetery at Vaucluse, where a white cross remembers Juanita Nielsen beside her family's monument. Sardaka, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Timeline

  • 22 April 1937 – Juanita Joan Smith born at New Lambton, Newcastle.
  • 1952 – Intermediate certificate. She goes to work at Mark Foy's as a glove model.
  • 1959 – Leaves Australia.
  • 1962 – Marries Jorgen Fritz Nielsen at Kobe, Japan.
  • 1965 – Returns to Sydney and opens the Gear Box boutique at Mark Foy's.
  • 1967 – Divorce.
  • 1968 – Leads the failed shareholders' revolt against McDowell's takeover offer for Mark Foy's.
  • Late 1960s–early 1970s – Moves into 202 Victoria Street and takes over NOW. Developers buy up Victoria Street.
  • 1971, 1972 or April 1973 – BLF green ban on Victoria Street (sources differ).
  • July 1973 – Arthur King kidnapped and held for three days.
  • 3 January 1974 – Police evict the Victoria Street squatters.
  • Late 1974 – Federal BLF "Intervention". The green ban is lifted.
  • February 1975 – Theeman meets Nielsen and fails to change her mind.
  • 13, 29 and 30 June 1975 – Approaches from Carousel staff, including the 30 June plan to grab her at her door.
  • 4 July 1975 – Last seen at the Carousel Cabaret, Roslyn Street.
  • 5 July 1975 – David Farrell reports her missing.
  • 7 July 1975 – Handbag found near Penrith (per Wikipedia).
  • October 1975 – $10,000 reward offered.
  • July 1976 – Her father offers $50,000.
  • November 1977 – Trigg, Martin-Simmonds and Marshall charged with conspiracy to abduct.
  • 1978 – First stage of the Victoria Street development finished.
  • 1979 – Kings Cross station opens. Mick Fowler dies in August.
  • 1980 – Marshall acquitted. Hung jury on the other two.
  • 1981 – Martin-Simmonds convicted and jailed for two years. The Killing of Angel Street released.
  • 1982 – Trigg arrested in San Francisco. NSW Government offers $50,000.
  • 1983 – Trigg jailed for three years. Juanita Nielsen centre opens in July. Inquest finding on 10 November.
  • 1994 – Parliamentary Joint Committee on the NCA reports.
  • 2000 and 2004 – Loretta Crawford's new accounts.
  • 25 February 2013 – Eddie Trigg dies at Waterloo.
  • 21 June 2021 – $1 million reward announced.

Where the Sources Disagree

  • When the green ban went on. The Dictionary of Sydney says the NSW BLF placed the ban in April 1973. Wikipedia's Juanita Nielsen article says 1972. Wikipedia's Victoria Street article says 1971.
  • Who raised her. The ADB says her mother raised her at Killara. Wikipedia says her maternal grandmother did.
  • Her school. The ADB biography and Wikipedia name Ravenswood at Gordon. The ADB's own life summary lists Pymble Ladies' College.
  • When she got the house. The heritage listing quoted on Wikipedia's Victoria Street page says she bought 202 Victoria Street in 1968. Wikipedia's Nielsen article says her father bought it for her in the early 1970s. The ADB says her father bought it after they reconciled following the 1968 takeover fight.
  • Finding the handbag. Wikipedia says her handbag was found near Penrith on Monday 7 July. The ABC says "a week later." The Canberra Times reported her cheque book found near the Nepean River on 14 July 1975.
  • Who left the club with her. Trigg and Crawford first said she left alone. Crawford later said she left with Trigg, and in 2004 said she never left the club alive. A real estate agent said he saw her get into a yellow car with two men.
  • The motive. The usual view is that she was killed over her Victoria Street and Woolloomooloo campaigns. John Glebe and journalist Barry Ward (in The Bulletin, 2005) suggested she was about to expose illegal gambling and corruption.
  • Her name. NSW Police spell it Roslyn Street in one place and quote the minister as saying "Nielson." The usual spelling is Nielsen.

My Earlier Posts

Sources

Kate Leigh & Tilly Devine – Sydney's Razor Gang Queens – Surry Hills, Darlinghurst & Woolloomooloo

If you grew up in Sydney you've probably heard the names Kate Leigh and Tilly Devine. They ran the inner east between the wars. Kate was the sly-grog and cocaine queen of Surry Hills, and Tilly was the brothel madam of Darlinghurst and Woolloomooloo. Their gangs fought each other with cut-throat razors through the late 1920s. Neither woman was a 19th-century figure. Kate was born in Dubbo in 1881 and Tilly in London in 1900, and their real reign ran from about 1919 until the mid-1950s. What gave them their start was a handful of laws passed between 1905 and 1927. In this post I've tried to set out who they were, how they made their money, the gang battles, how the police and parliament finally clipped their wings, and how they both ended up.

Kate Leigh prison photograph, 1915
Kate Leigh, photographed on 21 April 1915, the year she was gaoled for perjury over the Eveleigh payroll robbery alibi. Long Bay Women's Reformatory, NSW, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Kate Leigh – From Dubbo to Surry Hills

Kathleen Mary Josephine Beahan was born on 10 March 1881 at Dubbo. She was the eighth child of Timothy Beahan, a bootmaker, and his wife Charlotte, née Smith. The Australian Dictionary of Biography says she was reputedly neglected as a child, and at 12 she was put into the Parramatta Industrial School for Girls. She came to Sydney at 18 and, in the ADB's words, soon "got into trouble". Her daughter Eileen was born in 1900.

On 2 May 1902 she married James Lee, whom the police described as an illegal bookmaker and petty criminal. She spelt the name Leigh and kept it for the rest of her life, whoever she married. In 1905 Lee was gaoled for assaulting and robbing their Glebe landlord, with Kate's help. She then tried to clear him in court and got a perjury conviction for her trouble.

Her next man, Samuel "Jewey" Freeman, connected her with the wider underworld. On 18 June 1914 Freeman and Ernest "Shiner" Ryan robbed the payroll of the Eveleigh railway workshops. The ADB says they were reputedly the first armed robbers in Australia to use a getaway car. Kate tried to give Freeman an alibi, and early in 1915 she got five years for perjury again. The police only ever recorded thirteen minor convictions against her in those years, mostly to do with prostitution, although she later denied she'd ever been a prostitute. The police also noted that she was often the one who put up bail and alibis for gangsters.

Tilly Devine – From Camberwell to the 'Loo

Matilda Mary Twiss was born on 8 September 1900 at Camberwell in London. Her father, Edward Twiss, was a bricklayer, and her mother was Alice, née Tubb(s). Wikipedia says she was working the Strand in London as a teenage prostitute and was in and out of Bow Street court between 1915 and 1919. In 1917, at the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus in Camberwell, she married James Edward Joseph Devine, an Australian digger and former shearer. Jim went home in 1919. Tilly followed on the bride ship Waimana and reached Sydney on 13 January 1920.

Larry Writer says William Street was where she first worked when she arrived. Jim became a hire-car proprietor and acted as her minder, driver and getaway man. The ADB says that let her work independently of both the police and the underworld, although she was arrested a great deal. Between 18 June 1921 and May 1925 she racked up seventy-nine convictions on prostitution-related charges such as offensive behaviour and indecent language. Then in May 1925 she walked into a barber's shop, slashed a man with a razor and got two years for malicious wounding. The press called her the "Worst Woman in Sydney" and "The Queen of the Night", and the public gallery was always packed when she was in court.

Tilly Devine police photograph, 1925
Tilly Devine, photographed on 27 May 1925, the month she was gaoled for slashing a man with a razor in a barber's shop. State Reformatory NSW, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Laws That Made Them Rich

Larry Writer argues that both women's careers were "spawned by a series of well-intended but wrong-headed laws". Each law shut down a legal trade and handed it to the underworld.

Six O'Clock Closing, 1916

NSW voters were asked about pub closing hours at a referendum on 10 June 1916. Wikipedia says the vote was influenced by a drunken riot of soldiers that February, which ended with a soldier shot dead at Central station. Six o'clock closing was meant to be a wartime measure, but in 1923 the government made it permanent without another vote. It led to the "six o'clock swill" and it left a city full of thirsty people after 6pm. The ADB says sly grog was Kate Leigh's main business from 1919 to 1955, "induced by six o'clock closing". Wikipedia says she ran at least twenty outlets at her peak. Writer is quoted as putting it at more than thirty. Wikipedia also says she never drank or smoked herself.

Barmaid at Petty's Hotel at 6pm, 1941
Max Dupain's barmaid at Petty's Hotel, Sydney, at 6pm in 1941. Six o'clock closing is what made Kate Leigh rich. Max Dupain, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Vagrancy Act and the Brothel Loophole

The Vagrancy Act 1905 targeted street prostitution, and the law also said any man caught running prostitutes would be gaoled. Writer points out that it said nothing about women: "surely, the lawmakers thought, no woman would be capable of such a thing! They didn't know Tilly Devine." By the mid-1920s Tilly was running women out of her own brothels, centred on Palmer Street.

Cocaine and the 1927 Drug Law

Cocaine had been sold over the counter at chemists as a nerve tonic. Once a 1927 law banned that, users had to go to the drug rings, which sold it cut and at high prices. Wikipedia names the law as the Dangerous Drugs (Amendment) Act 1927. The ADB says Kate was dealing cocaine "from the mid-1920s", and Wikipedia says her supply came from a corrupt network of doctors, dentists, chemists and sailors. Police reckoned there were about five thousand drug customers in Darlinghurst, Kings Cross and Woolloomooloo.

The Pistol Licensing Act 1927 and the Razor

The Pistol Licensing Act of 1927 brought in prison terms for carrying an unlicensed gun, so the gangs switched to the cut-throat razor. Writer says you could buy one for a few pence at any grocer or chemist, and if a copper stopped you, you could say you were "just going home for a shave". The gangster's trademark was an L-shaped slash down the left cheek and across the mouth. He counts more than 500 recorded razor attacks in inner Sydney between 1927 and 1930 alone. Because nobody informed on anyone, he thinks the real number was far higher and that the hospital records are a better guide. Wikipedia says Sydney Hospital and St Vincent's patched up many of the victims.

Map of the razor gang areas of Sydney, c.1927
Part of a City of Sydney map of about 1927 (SR Map 6235), marked up by State Archives NSW to show the streets where the razor gangs ran and fought. State Archives and Records NSW, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Bruhn's Mob and the First Razor Gang

The first razor gang wasn't Kate's or Tilly's. Writer gives that title to Norman Bruhn, a Melbourne standover man, whose mob included the aptly named Snowy Cutmore. Wikipedia says Bruhn had been pushed out of Melbourne by Squizzy Taylor in late 1926. In Sydney he went after the cocaine runners who carried the drug from inner-city safe houses to the dealers, and that put him up against Leigh, Devine and Phil Jeffs. Writer says that within weeks, Tilly's, Kate's and Jeffs's people were carrying razors too.

Norman Bruhn prisoner photograph, 1921
Norman Bruhn in October 1921, from Victoria's Central Register of Male Prisoners, a few years before he brought his razor mob to Sydney. Unknown photographer, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Snowy Cutmore police photograph, 1922
John Daniel 'Snowy' Cutmore, NSW Police Special Photograph no. 842, 5 July 1922. He was one of Bruhn's mob. NSW Police Forensic Photography Archive (Sydney Living Museums), public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

On 22 June 1927 Bruhn was shot twice in the stomach outside Mac's sly-grog shop in Charlotte Lane, Darlinghurst, and he died early the next morning. The Nellie Cameron article on Wikipedia says the shooters were sent by either Devine or Leigh. Nobody was ever convicted. The suspects police put in line-ups included Frank Green, Tilly's enforcer known as "the Little Gunman", and George Gaffney, who worked for Kate.

Charlotte Lane, Darlinghurst, 1927
Charlotte Lane, Darlinghurst, where Norman Bruhn was shot, as printed in The Sun on 23 June 1927. Unknown photographer, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Plan of the Bruhn shooting in Charlotte Lane
The Sun's plan of the spot in Charlotte Lane where Bruhn was shot (23 June 1927, page 13). Unknown author, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Razor Wars, 1929

The Battle of Blood Alley – 7 May 1929

I've written a separate post on this one, so here's just the short version. Rival drug and standover gangs clashed in Eaton Avenue, Kings Cross, on 7 May 1929, and Phil Jeffs was shot. Writer says Jeffs had been cutting the cocaine he sold, and Wikipedia says he was adulterating it with boracic acid. Jeffs ran the 50-50 Club on the fourth floor of the Chard Building in William Street, where, Writer says, "Tilly Devine supplied the prostitutes, Kate Leigh the booze and cocaine". He later retired to Ettalong and died there a wealthy man in 1945. Writer thinks the bullet wounds probably contributed to his death, and says he was the only one of the 1920s–30s bosses to die with his fortune intact.

Maroubra and the Strand Hotel

On 17 July 1929 Gregory Gaffney, one of Kate's men, shot Frank Green in Woolloomooloo. Green went to the Devines' house at Maroubra to have the wound seen to. That night Gaffney and Wally Tomlinson came to finish him off, and Jim Devine shot Gaffney dead and wounded Tomlinson. On 9 November 1929, outside the Strand Hotel on the corner of William and Crown streets, Green, with Jim Devine alongside him, shot Barney Dalton dead and wounded Tomlinson again. Writer describes Tomlinson as another of Kate's lovers. Both Green and Devine got off because no witness would speak against them. In June 1931 Jim also accidentally shot dead a taxi driver, Frederick Moffitt, outside the Maroubra house. Wikipedia says he was charged with murder more than once and was always acquitted on self-defence.

Jim Devine police photograph, 1939
'Big Jim' Devine, Tilly's first husband, from his NSW criminal record, 25 August 1939. NSW Criminal Record, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Battle of Kellett Street – 8 August 1929

Three months after Blood Alley came the big street fight between the Leigh and Devine gangs themselves, in Kellett Street near Kings Cross, on 8 August 1929. Wikipedia says a lot of bootleg grog and cocaine went down beforehand, and the fight involved thrown bottles, fists, guns and razors. Writer puts it at forty-odd men. It's often mixed up with Blood Alley, but they were separate fights.

Kate Leigh's Riley Street Shooting

Kate wasn't one to leave the fighting to her men. The ADB says she was "adept with a rifle". In March 1930 a group of gangsters broke into her house, and she shot and killed John William "Snowy" Prendergast. Wikipedia gives the date as 27 March 1930 and the house as 104 Riley Street. She was never indicted for the killing. Nor was she charged over shooting Joseph McNamara in December 1931. Later in 1930 the drug squad raided Riley Street, with the famous policewoman Lillian Armfield among them. Kate was charged with possessing cocaine and with consorting.

The Women Around Them

The razor gang years weren't only about Kate and Tilly. Nellie Cameron left a respectable North Shore family and worked the streets of William and Palmer streets. Over the years she was the lover of Norman Bruhn, Frank Green and Guido Calletti. Calletti led the "Darlinghurst Push", and they married at Fitzroy in Victoria on 20 February 1934. Calletti was shot dead on 6 August 1939 after gatecrashing a party in Brougham Street, off William Street. Writer says he announced he was taking over the Brougham Street Gang's turf. Nellie gassed herself on 8 November 1953, aged 41.

Nellie Cameron, 1930
Nellie Cameron in 1930. She was Bruhn's lover, later married Guido Calletti and was close to Frank Green. State Reformatory NSW, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Dulcie Markham was born in Surry Hills in 1914. Wikipedia says she was on the streets at 15 and ran up about 100 convictions across four states. The papers called her "The Angel of Death" because so many of her men ended up stabbed or shot, Calletti among them.

Dulcie Markham, from Truth, 1937
Dulcie Markham, photographed around May 1931 and reprinted in the Brisbane Truth on 26 December 1937. Photographer unknown, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Police Strike Back

Parliament fought back with two laws. The Vagrancy (Amendment) Act 1929 made it an offence for known criminals to consort with one another. The Crimes (Amendment) Act 1930 meant six months' gaol for carrying a razor without a good reason. Both cut down the violence. Kate and Tilly were both hit with consorting charges in the 1930s. The ADB says Tilly's arrests became fewer but more serious, and that she spent a year of "voluntary absence" in England.

William John MacKay, a Glasgow detective who joined the NSW Police in 1910, became Commissioner on 24 March 1935. Wikipedia says he called both women in and gave them a warning: keep the violence and cocaine down, or the new police powers would be turned on their businesses. From 1938–39 police worked the ships to cut off cocaine, and then wartime shipping restrictions did the rest.

War, Wealth and the Long Decline

The war was good for both of them. The ADB says that by 1939 Tilly had a business of Palmer Street houses with bouncers and bodyguards. She and Kate were "excellently placed" to profit from wartime demand. Tilly was now the "Queen of the 'Loo". She threw lavish parties, gave generously to the war effort and became known for her diamond rings. Kate turned up to court in silver fox furs and big hats with diamond rings on her fingers, and the press remembered her patriotism and her kindness to the unemployed. Tilly divorced Jim in 1943 on the grounds of cruelty. On 19 May 1945, at 191 Palmer Street, she married a seaman, Eric Parsons. A few months earlier she had shot him in the leg and been acquitted.

Kate married Shiner Ryan, her old associate from the Eveleigh robbery, at Fremantle on 18 January 1950. They lasted six months. In 1954 she was declared bankrupt over unpaid tax, and in 1955 NSW moved pub closing to 10pm, which finished off the sly-grog trade. Wikipedia quotes her as saying "The bloom has gone off the grog". She spent her last years in a room above a shop at 212 Devonshire Street, Surry Hills, and died on 4 February 1964 after a stroke. More than 700 people came to her funeral at St Peter's in Devonshire Street, and she was buried at Botany as Kathleen Ryan.

Kate Leigh holding a camera, 1951
Kate Leigh in September 1951, holding a press camera. By then she was living in Devonshire Street, Surry Hills. Vic Johnstone, State Library of NSW, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

In 1955 Tilly had to pay more than £20,000 in tax and fines. She kept her Palmer Street brothel going until 1968, when the law changed. She'd had chronic bronchitis for twenty years and died at Concord Repatriation Hospital on 24 November 1970. She was cremated at Botany with Catholic rites under her married name, Matilda Mary Parsons. Wikipedia says the only public eulogy came from Police Commissioner Norman Allan: "She was a villain, but who am I to judge her?"

On Page and Screen

Peter Kenna based his 1973 play The Slaughter of St Teresa's Day on incidents in Tilly's life. Larry Writer's book Razor (2001) won the Ned Kelly Award for true crime in 2002. It became the basis of Channel Nine's 13-part Underbelly: Razor in 2011, with Danielle Cormack as Kate and Chelsie Preston Crayford as Tilly. Icehouse's 1990 song "Miss Divine" is about Tilly, and there's a Darlinghurst wine bar called Love, Tilly Devine.

Timeline

  • 10 March 1881 – Kathleen Beahan (Kate Leigh) born at Dubbo.
  • 1893 – Kate sent to Parramatta Industrial School for Girls, aged 12.
  • 8 September 1900 – Matilda Twiss (Tilly Devine) born at Camberwell, London.
  • 2 May 1902 – Kate marries James Lee.
  • 1905 – Lee gaoled for robbing the Glebe landlord. Kate convicted of perjury.
  • 18 June 1914 – Eveleigh payroll robbery by Freeman and Shiner Ryan.
  • Early 1915 – Kate sentenced to five years for perjury.
  • 10 June 1916 – NSW referendum brings six o'clock closing.
  • 1917 – Tilly marries Jim Devine in Camberwell.
  • 1919 – Kate's sly-grog era begins.
  • 13 January 1920 – Tilly arrives in Sydney on the Waimana.
  • 26 September 1922 – Kate marries Edward "Teddy" Barry.
  • 1923 – Six o'clock closing made permanent in NSW.
  • May 1925 – Tilly gaoled for two years for the barber's shop razor slashing.
  • 1927 – Pistol Licensing Act. Cocaine banned from chemists.
  • 22–23 June 1927 – Norman Bruhn shot in Charlotte Lane, Darlinghurst.
  • 7 May 1929 – Battle of Blood Alley, Eaton Avenue. Phil Jeffs shot.
  • 17 July 1929 – Jim Devine shoots George Gaffney dead at Maroubra.
  • 8 August 1929 – Battle of Kellett Street.
  • 9 November 1929 – Barney Dalton shot dead outside the Strand Hotel.
  • 1929–1930 – Consorting law and razor law passed.
  • March 1930 – Kate shoots Snowy Prendergast dead at Riley Street.
  • 1930 – Kate convicted over cocaine.
  • 24 March 1935 – William MacKay becomes Police Commissioner.
  • 6 August 1939 – Guido Calletti shot dead in Brougham Street.
  • 1943 – Tilly divorces Jim Devine.
  • 19 May 1945 – Tilly marries Eric Parsons.
  • 1945 – Phil Jeffs dies at Ettalong.
  • 18 January 1950 – Kate marries Shiner Ryan at Fremantle.
  • 1954 – Kate declared bankrupt.
  • 1955 – Ten o'clock closing ends the sly-grog trade. Tilly pays more than £20,000 in tax and fines.
  • 4 February 1964 – Kate Leigh dies.
  • 1968 – Tilly sells her last Palmer Street brothel.
  • 24 November 1970 – Tilly Devine dies at Concord.
  • 2001 / 2011 – Larry Writer's Razor is published, followed by Underbelly: Razor.

Where the Sources Disagree

  • Tilly's wedding date. The ADB says 12 August 1917. Wikipedia says 12 April 1917. Both give the same church.
  • Tilly's age at marriage. Wikipedia says she claimed to be 21 but was really 16. Ron Saw's 1970 obituary says it the other way round: she said she was 15 and the records said 21. Her 1900 birth date backs Wikipedia.
  • When Tilly arrived. The ADB and Wikipedia say 13 January 1920. Ron Saw's obituary says the Devines arrived in 1919. That's the year Jim came home.
  • Tilly's divorce. The ADB says August 1943. Wikipedia says they were finally divorced in January 1944.
  • Kate's 1930 cocaine sentence. The ADB says two years, with a £250 fine allowed in place of the second year. Wikipedia says 12 months.
  • The McNamara shooting. The ADB says 19 December 1931. Wikipedia says 9 December 1931.
  • Shiner Ryan's death. The ADB says 1957. Wikipedia says 1954.
  • Where Kate died. The ADB gives Surry Hills. Wikipedia says she had the stroke at Devonshire Street and died at St Vincent's Hospital.
  • Kate's tax debt. The ADB says about £6191 in tax arrears. Wikipedia gives her liabilities at the 1954 bankruptcy hearing as £7130.
  • MacKay's warning. The Kate Leigh article on Wikipedia puts it in 1936, and the razor gang article puts it in 1935.
  • Who Underbelly was based on. The Kate Leigh article on Wikipedia credits a book by "Chris Walker", which has no citation. The Underbelly: Razor article, the Tilly article and Museums of History NSW all say it was Larry Writer's Razor.
  • The drug law. Wikipedia calls it the Dangerous Drugs (Amendment) Act 1927. Writer just says cocaine "was banned" from chemists. I haven't found a source here that names a "Pharmacy Act".

My Earlier Posts

Sources

  • Judith Allen, "Leigh, Kathleen Mary (Kate) (1881–1964)", Australian Dictionary of Biography, vol. 10, 1986. https://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/leigh-kathleen-mary-kate-7164
  • Judith Allen and Baiba Irving, "Devine, Matilda Mary (Tilly) (1900–1970)", Australian Dictionary of Biography, vol. 8, 1981. https://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/devine-matilda-mary-tilly-5970
  • Ron Saw, "Devine, Matilda Mary (Tilly)", Obituaries Australia. https://oa.anu.edu.au/obituary/devine-matilda-mary-tilly-5970/text24400
  • "MacKay, William John (1885–1948)", Australian Dictionary of Biography. https://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/mackay-william-john-7381
  • Larry Writer, "Following in the footsteps of the Razor Gangs", Museums of History NSW, 13 April 2018. https://mhnsw.au/stories/underworld/following-footsteps-razor-gangs/
  • Larry Writer, "Following in the footsteps of the Razor Gangs – Part 2", Museums of History NSW, 4 May 2018. https://mhnsw.au/stories/underworld/following-footsteps-razor-gangs-part-2/
  • Wikipedia: "Kate Leigh", "Tilly Devine", "Razor gang", "Norman Bruhn", "Nellie Cameron", "Dulcie Markham", "Six o'clock swill", "Underbelly: Razor" (all accessed October 2026).
  • Larry Writer, Razor: Tilly Devine, Kate Leigh and the Razor Gangs, Pan Macmillan, 2001 (2nd ed. 2009), as cited by the sources above.
  • Images: Wikimedia Commons, with credits given under each picture (State Archives and Records NSW, NSW Police Forensic Photography Archive / Sydney Living Museums, State Library of NSW).

Friday, October 9, 2026

The Windmills of Darlinghurst Road and Roslyn Street – Kings Cross's Lost Mills on Woolloomooloo Hill

In short: for about fifty years the ridge along today's Darlinghurst Road was Sydney's windmill country. Two big stone tower mills stood side by side near where Roslyn Street now meets Darlinghurst Road at Kings Cross. One was Thomas Barker's, finished in 1826. The other was built by the Frenchman François Girard a couple of years later. A third giant, Thomas Hyndes' mill near Craigend, stood just up the hill. Steam killed them off, and today the only trace of the Roslyn Street mills is some old sandstone sitting in the walls of two Kellett Street terraces. Here's what I found, with the best pictures from the 1800s.

1844 oil painting by G. E. Peacock showing stone tower windmills with sails rising above houses at Woolloomooloo Hill, with the harbour and a headland behind
View of part of Wooloomooloo and Mr. Barker's house and mills with Bradleys Point, painted by George Edwards Peacock in 1844. This is the Roslyn Street pair of mills, standing near where Roslyn Street meets Darlinghurst Road today. George Edwards Peacock, 1844, State Library of NSW, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Every time I walk up Darlinghurst Road past the Roslyn Street corner, among the backpackers and the late-night crowd, I try to picture two great sandstone towers with canvas sails turning in the north-easterly. It's all in the records, and there's even a painting. George Edwards Peacock painted the scene in 1844 and called it View of part of Wooloomooloo and Mr. Barker's house and mills with Bradleys Point. The original is in the State Library of NSW.

I wrote a general piece on the windmills of old Sydney in 2021. This time I've stayed on the Darlinghurst ridge.

Sydney – Once a Town of Windmills

Before steam came along, most of Sydney's bread started life between millstones turned by the wind. The First Fleet's hand mills were hard work and wore out quickly, and the parts for a proper windmill finally came out with Governor Hunter in 1795.

The Government Mills – Observatory Hill and the Barracks

That first government windmill went up on Flagstaff Hill, which is today's Observatory Hill and was also called Windmill Hill. It was finished in February 1797. David Collins wrote that on its first trial, with only two sails on, it ground "a bushel of wheat in ten minutes". Within months, Governor Hunter was complaining that while the miller was away, the very people whose wheat was being ground "were clever enough to steal away some of the sails". By about 1810 the tower stood without its sweeps.

A second government mill was started in January 1798 near where Clarence Street crosses the top of Grosvenor Street. A three-day gale in June 1799 wrecked the tower, but it was rebuilt by 1802 and, as the military windmill, kept going into the 1840s. A third, timber government mill was built by Nathaniel Lucas around 1806, close to where Fort Street school later stood.

Watercolour by James Taylor, 1821, showing a stone tower windmill with four sails on a grassy hill above early Sydney
Sydney looking south from Flagstaff Hill, by Major James Taylor, 1821. The windmill on the hill is the old military windmill near the barracks. James Taylor, 1821, State Library of NSW, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Domain Mills – Boston's, Palmer's and Kable's

On the east side of town, between where Governor Bourke's statue stands outside the Mitchell Library and the Conservatorium, there were at times three windmills at work. They were known as Boston's, Palmer's and Kable's. Charles Bertie wrote in 1912 that Kable's small post mill "was removed afterwards to the heights of Darlinghurst".

Watercolour by John Eyre of the east side of Sydney Cove about 1809, with small windmills on the rise behind the buildings
John Eyre's East View of Sydney, about 1809. The Dictionary of Sydney picks out Boston's mill on the left, Palmer's in the centre and Kable's little post mill on the right. John Eyre, c.1809, State Library of NSW, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
1836 lithograph of a ruined round stone windmill tower with broken sails in the Government Domain, the castellated Government House stables at left
Old Windmill, Government Domain, published by J. G. Austin in 1836, with the old tower long past working. J. G. Austin, 1836, State Library of NSW (PXA 662), public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Millers Point, Pyrmont and Beyond

Millers Point takes its name from "Jack the Miller", John Leighton. By 1822 there were three wooden mills on the high ground there, apparently run by Jack. According to the Dictionary of Sydney, he died in 1826 after falling "in a state of intoxication" from a ladder leaning against one of his mills. John Macarthur had a stone mill at Pyrmont. Gordon's mill at Paddington and Hough's at Waverley came later. When William Charles Wentworth wrote his poem Australasia in 1823, he described Sydney's skyline this way:

"The lofty windmills, that with outspread sail
Thick line the hills, and court the rising gale."
Watercolour by Joseph Fowles of Millers Point about 1845 with a timber windmill among houses beside the harbour and the Lord Nelson Hotel
Millers Point, by Joseph Fowles, about 1845, with a windmill still standing near the Lord Nelson Hotel. Joseph Fowles, c.1845, State Library of NSW (SV1/1840s/1), public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Windmill Ridge – Darlinghurst Road

The high ground east of town ran north from today's Oxford Street towards the harbour, along the old South Head Road that Darlinghurst Road follows now. It caught every breeze off the harbour. Norman Selfe, the engineer who wrote about Sydney's windmills in 1902, put it this way:

"The most picturesque windmills of Sydney … were undoubtedly those which crowned the ridge at Darlinghurst."

The first was Thomas Clarkson's mill, put up around 1819 near today's Liverpool and Darley Streets, close to where the gaol was later built. Two wooden post mills stood nearby, just north of Liverpool Street, and one of them was Kable's old mill brought up from the Domain. The Morawa Museum's windmill records say these post mills were on James Hankinson's land grant. In June 1827 they went to auction as "Two Wood Post Windmills". In November 1828 one of them was being advertised as "a fine, new Post Mill, supposed by Judges to be the best ever erected in the Colony".

Page from Stories of Old Sydney (1912) with a pen drawing of three windmills, two wooden post mills and a stone tower mill, on the Darlinghurst ridge
Mills near Darlinghurst Road and Liverpool Street, a drawing by Sydney Ure Smith for Charles Bertie's Stories of Old Sydney (1912). Bertie says it shows the two small wooden post mills north of Liverpool Street and Clarkson's stone tower near the gaol site. Sydney Ure Smith, in C. H. Bertie, Stories of Old Sydney, 1912, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

By the 1830s the ridge was crowded with mills. In 1896 a writer in the Sydney Morning Herald (26 December 1896) put it like this: "At one time—about the year 1835—this ridge carried no fewer than five windmills. Two stood near Macleay-street, two near the gaol site and one at the back of St. John's Church, Darlinghurst." Bertie, and F. J. Croft in the Herald of 2 April 1938, both called Darlinghurst Road "the miller town of Sydney" in the thirties. Both mention an old panorama in the Mitchell Library showing six windmills along the ridge, and Croft adds that two of them were near Darlinghurst Road and Roslyn Street.

The Roslyn Street Mills

Where They Stood

Every source I checked puts the mills in the same spot. The Dictionary of Sydney says there were "two more stone tower windmills that stood near where Roslyn Street joins Darlinghurst Road. One was owned by Thomas Barker and the other by Francois Girard." Bertie (1912), working from Norman Selfe's notes, puts them "near the junction of the Roslyn Street and Darlinghurst Road of to-day, and north of where Kellett Street now runs". The Morawa records go further. They place the two mills south-east of the Roslyn Street corner, only about 30 metres apart, with Barker's just north of Girard's.

Back then it was called Woolloomooloo Hill, and the road was still the South Head Road. Roslyn Street itself is named after Barker's house, Roslyn Hall, which stood next to the mills.

Thomas Barker's Hope Mill (1826)

Thomas Barker was orphaned young. He came out in 1813 as apprentice to John Dickson, the engineer who brought the colony's first steam engine. Barker went on to become one of the richest flour millers in Sydney, but he started out with wind. The Australian Dictionary of Biography says that in 1826 he and John Smith built a large windmill at Darlinghurst, "and soon afterwards another close by". In a June 1826 letter to Governor Darling, Barker didn't hide his ambitions: "it is my wish to oppose as far as my means will allow, those overgrown Millers, by building other Mills".

According to the Morawa records, Barker's partnership with John Smith was dissolved on 23 June 1826, with the mill still unfinished. Barker bought out the land and the half-built tower and finished the job. By mid-September 1826 he was telling the public that the Hope Mill was "ready to receive WHEAT, to be Ground and Dressed, in any Quantity not less than 5 Bushels". When he died in 1875, his obituary in the Sydney Morning Herald (20 March 1875) remembered it this way: "His first essay was a self-acting windmill, which he caused to be erected in Macleay-street."

Barker built his home, Roslyn Hall, right beside the mills. The Dictionary of Sydney says he took up the Roslyn Hall estate on Woolloomooloo Hill in 1833, a villa and the windmills on nine acres. The house was later replaced by St Luke's Hospital.

François Girard's Stone Mill (1827–28)

The second mill belonged to one of the great characters of early Sydney. François Girard was a Frenchman who had been transported as a convict. He taught fencing, dancing and French, and after his pardon in 1825 he threw himself into baking. A scandal over short-weight bread didn't slow him down. By May 1826 his advertisements were promising "every kind of fancy bread, of a superior quality for gentlemen's tables. N.B. French Hot Rolls at Half past 7 in the morning."

Girard had already leased mills on the ridge and in town, but he wanted his own. Governor Darling refused him a land grant because he wasn't a British subject. Kenneth Dutton's history of Girard says he simply bought a one-acre block next to Barker's and began building "his own solid stone mill", using stone from his own quarry. The Morawa records describe it as five storeys high and well advanced by September 1827. Sybil Jack, writing in the Dictionary of Sydney, says it was built by Ashley and Hyndes.

1828 was a rough year for Girard. He baked bread for the soldiers under contract, and during a wheat shortage he was allowed to mix in maize flour. The troops hated it. In Girard's own words, the soldiers "demolished all his windows with the loaves and stones". Governor Darling took the opposite view: "the soldiers in revenge broke his windows with the ill-baked and unwholesome loaves he had supplied." Then, in September 1828, the new mill was damaged in a storm. While it was repaired he went back to grinding at one of the old post mills.

Girard soon turned to steam. In February 1829 he tried to let the stone mill and took on a steam engine instead. The Australian reported he was "paying for the use of it £1000 yearly". The windmill was heavily mortgaged. The Morawa records say that in February 1831 he handed it over to John Northwood in return for clearing the debt. Northwood, who wasn't a miller, sold it on in 1836.

How These Tower Mills Worked

The Roslyn Street pair were tower mills: tall stone towers with a cap on top carrying the sails, and only the cap turned to face the wind. In the older post mills the whole timber body swung round on a big post. Sybil Jack notes that by the 1830s nearly all Sydney's windmills had "common sails", canvas, set like the sails of a ship. She also says the stone towers on the ridge seem to have had better gear for hoisting the sacks and turning the caps than the older mills. Hyndes' mill, for one, had two pairs of stones and a smutter for cleaning the grain.

The Morawa records note something lovely in the paintings. Barker's mill had a staging, or platform, around the tower so the miller could reach the sails, and a fantail, the little wind wheel at the back that turns the cap into the wind by itself. Girard's mill doesn't appear to have had one, and Morawa suggests its staging was used to swing the tail pole round by hand.

1849 tinted lithograph by Conrad Martens looking across the eastern bays towards Sydney, with tiny windmills on the distant skyline at left
View of Sydney from near Tivoli, from Conrad Martens' Sketches in the Environs of Sydney, 1849. Look closely at the skyline on the left and you'll see windmills on the eastern ridge. Conrad Martens, 1849, British Museum (1871,0610.534), public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Was the Second Mill Barker's or Girard's?

The Australian Dictionary of Biography says Barker built two mills, the first "and soon afterwards another close by". Peacock's 1844 painting is also titled "Mr. Barker's house and mills". The Dictionary of Sydney, Dutton and the Morawa records all give the second tower to Girard. Bertie, quoting Selfe, says the right-hand one was Barker's and the other was "erected by Mr. Girard or Mr. Hyndes". He adds that the second one was at one time known as Donaldson's mill, after Kellett House, home of Sir Stuart Alexander Donaldson, which stood close by. The Morawa records offer a tidy explanation. Both mills seem to have stood on the same 1826 grant to Smith and Barker, with the land under Girard's mill split off at some stage.

The End of the Roslyn Street Mills

Both mills were still standing in 1845 according to the Morawa records, and "Mr. Barker's windmill" was advertised to let in mid-1848. The Herald's special report on Woolloomooloo of 15 March 1851 enjoyed the view of the hilltop mansions: "Intermixed with these houses are several windmills, materially adding to the diversity of the scenery". In the 1850s Frederick Terry's engraving Sydney from the Old Point Piper Road still showed the sails of Hyndes', Barker's and Girard's mills high on the skyline.

I haven't found a date for the demolition of either Roslyn Street mill, but we do know where the stone went. The Morawa records say the stones of Barker's mill were used for two houses near the site about 1863–66. The Dictionary of Sydney says they are "two terrace houses in Kellet Street, Kings Cross which remain today on the corner of Kellet Lane". The Potts Point Preservation Group tells the same story. The Roslyn Hall estate was subdivided in 1889, and the house itself came down in the 1930s.

What's There Today

The mill site is the block on the south-east corner of Darlinghurst Road and Roslyn Street, right at the T-intersection, among the shops, money exchanges and backpacker hostels of the Cross. The painter William Dobell lived on the corner of Darlinghurst Road and Roslyn Street in the early 1940s, about a hundred years after Peacock painted the mills. If you want to touch the past, walk round into Kellett Street and look at the old sandstone in those two terraces near the lane.

Darlinghurst Road, Kings Cross, on a wet evening in 2012, with shopfronts, the Kings Cross station sign and people with umbrellas
Darlinghurst Road, Kings Cross, in 2012. The Roslyn Street mills stood a short walk from here. Photo by Sardaka, 2012, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Hyndes' Mill – The Giant of the Ridge

The Roslyn Street pair had a big neighbour up the hill. In 1825 Henry Ashley and Thomas Hyndes asked for land on the South Head Road to build a windmill, and a grant was promised on 14 June 1825. That June they advertised for "stonemasons, bricklayers, and millwrights". Ashley dropped out, and the mill opened in 1829. The Sydney Gazette praised it as spacious and very handsome. It stood beside Major Thomas Mitchell's Craigend, which is why it later became known as the Craigend mill.

It had a long line of owners and tenants:

  • Leased to John Hill in the 1830s, hence "Hill's mill"
  • Sold to John Terry Hughes in 1834 and back with Hyndes in 1840
  • Run by Macdonald and Airth, who went insolvent in 1843, then by Wascoe and Moody
  • Put up for auction in 1848 and, when that failed, offered to let
  • Run by James Fidden and then, from 1851 to 1863, by John Jenkins (it was "Jenkin's mill" by 1857)

Under Fidden it was the Oak Mill (Jack) or "Fiddon's or Hope mill" (Bertie). In 1865 Captain Robert Towns owned it and planned to turn it into workmen's dwellings.

That plan gives us the best story. The young architect John Horbury Hunt was drawing up the conversion, and on 17 January 1865 he wrote in his diary:

"Old windmill—got up on top platform, climbed out on shaft, as one of the arms was standing perpendicular climbed up it and with Jack knife cut a strip of wood off the arm, pointed it, and stuck it into the end of the arm at 105 feet from the ground."

Years later he added, "Being a yachtsman in those days accounts for the feat." Bertie says the sweeps were "fully forty feet long". By 1871 the mill was "out of repair, no sails, roof bad", and it was reportedly pulled down around 1873. A late-1860s State Library panorama of Craigend with Hyndes' windmill on the right can be seen on the My Darling Darlinghurst blog. There's also a 1865–69 view, "Windmill Hill from Upper Liverpool Street", on the City of Sydney's Darlinghurst Stories site. Stone from the mill is said to have gone into Beare's Stairs in Caldwell Street, and possibly four terraces there too. The Dictionary of Sydney places the mill roughly at today's Royston Place, at the top of those stairs.

Pen drawing of a tall tower windmill with sails behind trees, with a woman walking along a path, captioned A Darlinghurst Mill
A Darlinghurst Mill, drawn by Sydney Ure Smith for Stories of Old Sydney (1912). The book doesn't say which of the ridge mills this is. Sydney Ure Smith, in C. H. Bertie, Stories of Old Sydney, 1912, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Steam Takes Over

John Dickson brought the colony's first steam engine out in 1813 and set it up on Cockle Bay, and for nearly ten years his was the only steam mill. In 1825 Daniel Cooper and Solomon Levey built a steam mill on Cockle Bay. Barker bought it in 1826 for £6,000, according to Sybil Jack (the ADB says about 1828), and built it up into his big Sussex Street mills. Girard built his own steam mill at the other end of Darling Harbour in 1833–34. By 1838 Maclehose was counting eight steam mills on Darling Harbour.

A steam mill didn't sit idle on a still day. Sybil Jack says windmills could still pay until the 1850s, but one by one the sails came down on the ridge. As the Herald's 1896 writer put it, "The windmills and water-wheels were in time superseded by steam flour mills. Among the earliest of these to be erected were Barker's Mills, in Sussex-street."

The last of them all was out at Waverley. Henry Hough's post mill in Mill Hill Road, on the site of St Barnabas's church, was "levelled to the ground on October 1 1878", according to Selfe, and Heaton's Dictionary of Dates gives the same day. A pencil note on an old picture gives 1881, and a writer in Truth in 1902 said it "disappeared in the mid-seventies". Bertie was tempted to call his windmill chapter "What Sydney lost by steam", and I think he was right.

Pen drawing of a timber post windmill on a raised base behind a fence with a woman in a crinoline in front, captioned Hough's Mill, Waverley
Hough's Mill, Waverley, another Sydney Ure Smith drawing from Stories of Old Sydney (1912). It's a good example of the old post mill, where the whole body of the mill turned to face the wind. Sydney Ure Smith, in C. H. Bertie, Stories of Old Sydney, 1912, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Timeline

  • 1797 – First government windmill working on Flagstaff (Observatory) Hill; some of its sails are stolen.
  • 1798–1802 – Military windmill begun, wrecked by the June 1799 storm, rebuilt.
  • c.1819 – Thomas Clarkson's mill, the first on the Darlinghurst ridge.
  • 1825 – Hyndes and Ashley promised land on the South Head Road; advertise for masons.
  • June 1826 – Barker–Smith partnership dissolved; Barker finishes the mill.
  • Sept 1826 – Barker's Hope Mill "ready to receive WHEAT".
  • 1827 – Girard refused a grant (April); buys one acre and builds a stone mill beside Barker's.
  • 1828 – Soldiers' bread riot at Girard's; Girard's new mill damaged by storm (September).
  • 1829 – Hyndes' (Craigend) mill opens; Girard turns to steam.
  • 1833 – Barker takes up the Roslyn Hall estate beside his mills.
  • c.1835 – Five (or six) windmills along the ridge.
  • 1844 – Peacock paints "Mr. Barker's house and mills".
  • 1845 – Both Roslyn Street mills still standing.
  • 1848 – "Mr. Barker's windmill" to let; Hyndes' mill offered at auction.
  • c.1863–66 – Stone from Barker's mill used for two houses in Kellett Street.
  • 1865 – Horbury Hunt climbs the arm of the Craigend mill, 105 feet up.
  • c.1873 – Hyndes' (Craigend) mill reportedly demolished.
  • 1878 – Hough's mill at Waverley, probably the last, is levelled.

Where the Sources Disagree

  • The second Roslyn Street mill: Barker's (ADB, and Peacock's title), Girard's (Dictionary of Sydney, Dutton, Morawa), or "Girard or Hyndes" (Selfe, via Bertie).
  • Builder of Girard's mill: Ashley and Hyndes (Sybil Jack), or Girard himself with his own quarry stone (Dutton).
  • "Hope Mill": Barker's mill (Dictionary of Sydney, Morawa), or the Craigend mill (Bertie).
  • Girard's sale: February 1831 (Morawa) or around 1833 (Dutton). His 1829 steam engine: Robert Cooper's at Blackwattle Swamp (Dutton, Morawa), or the Cooper and Levey mill on Cockle Bay (Jack).
  • Barker's steam mill purchase: 1826 (Jack), 1827 (Dictionary of Sydney) or about 1828 (ADB).
  • Clarkson's mill: a stone tower (Bertie, Dictionary of Sydney, Morawa) or a post mill (Jack).
  • Roslyn Hall: nine acres on Woolloomooloo Hill, or 16 acres at Darling Point (two different Dictionary of Sydney pages).
  • Hough's mill: gone on 1 October 1878, in 1881, or in "the mid-seventies".

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