The Water Police Court – Phillip Street, Circular Quay – Edmund Blacket's 1856 Courthouse and the Justice and Police Museum

Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander readers are advised that this page contains the name of an Aboriginal person who has died.

The old Water Police Court on the corner of Phillip and Albert Streets, now the Justice and Police Museum, 2013. Sardaka, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

If you have ever walked up from the ferries at Circular Quay towards the Opera House end of Phillip Street, you have probably passed a little sandstone courthouse sitting up on its own raised footpath, with three arches across the front and a triangular pediment on top. It looks almost too modest for the address. These days it is the Justice and Police Museum, but for well over a century it was where Sydney's waterfront troubles ended up – the drunks, the brawlers, the petty thieves, the sailors who had a big night, and plenty of folk who were just unlucky. This is the story of the Water Police Court.

Gadigal Country

The court stands on Gadigal Country. The City of Sydney's Barani history site describes the Gadigal as a clan of the Eora Nation, one of about 29 clan groups across the Sydney area, whose land stretched along the southern side of Port Jackson from South Head to around what is now Petersham. Wikipedia's article on the Gadigal (spelt Cadigal and Caddiegal in older records) describes them as the traditional owners of Sydney Cove, the place the British chose for their first settlement in 1788.

The same Barani page quotes historians on how quickly the Gadigal were devastated after the British arrived, through smallpox and the loss of land and food sources, and it also stresses that descendants of the Eora still live in Sydney today. Museums of History NSW, which runs the museum, greets visitors to the building with "Good to see you on Gadigal Country", and it acknowledges in particular the impact that colonial and state law enforcement had on First Nations people, saying it wants the museum to be a place for reflection and conversation about First Nations people and the justice system. For a former police station and courthouse, that is a fair thing to say out loud.

Sydney Cove, Port Jackson, painted by John Lewin in 1808, long before Circular Quay was built. John Lewin, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Before the Court: Where the Water Police Came From

Sydney was a harbour town from day one, and it needed policing on the water as much as on land. The Australian Police chronology says that in 1789 Governor Phillip set up a Night Watch and that a Row Boat Guard was "quickly established on Sydney Harbour". The Dictionary of Sydney says the Row Boat Guard's job was preventing smuggling, and that the Water Police were formally established by legislation in 1840, later adding the protection of wharf cargoes and rescue work to that list. The same chronology records the 1840 Water Police Act setting up a force of 15 operational and 12 support personnel, an inquiry into the Sydney Water Police in 1843, and about 28 Water Police men, including two detectives, by 1852.

For a few years the Water Police had their base on the other side of the Quay at Cadman's Cottage. The Dictionary of Sydney says that after John Cadman, the last government coxswain, left, the cottage was occupied by the Water Police from 1846 to the mid-1850s, and was extended for offices and lock-up cells. The NSW Government's Plan of Management for the cottage says the Water Police took it over between 1846 and 1849, that it was gazetted as a Court of Petty Sessions in 1849, and that by 1854 it was reported as inadequate. Even after the move it kept being used as a Water Police lock-up. I wrote about the cottage itself in my Cadman's Cottage post.

Cadman's Cottage at The Rocks, where the Water Police had their offices and cells before moving to Phillip Street. Gwrang, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Cadman's Cottage with the Sailors' Home behind it on George Street, The Rocks. Bidgee, CC BY-SA 3.0 au, via Wikimedia Commons

Museums of History NSW historian Jane Kelso puts it this way: by 1851 the old Water Police Office in The Rocks, with its court and lock-up, was "inadequate and dilapidated". A new home was needed, and the Government had just the block.

A Site Carved from Government House Grounds

The first Government House was pulled down in 1845–46, and Kelso writes that a large part of its grounds was carved up into new streets and allotments. One block was held back for public buildings, and the corner of Phillip and Albert Streets was picked for the new Water Police Office. The site sat up high above the brand-new Circular Quay, and that is still obvious today when you look at the way the building perches above the street.

Looking south from Dawes Point past the ships at Campbell's Wharf to Circular Quay, about 1857, around the time the new court opened. State Library of New South Wales collection, No restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons

Sydney Cove from Fort Macquarie in 1859, looking across to The Rocks, the Water Police's old patch. State Library of New South Wales collection, No restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons

The Architects

Edmund Blacket and the Water Police Office, 1854–1856

The plans were drawn up by the Colonial Architect, Edmund Blacket. Wikipedia's biography gives his dates as 25 August 1817 to 9 February 1883, and the NSW Government Architect list on Wikipedia has him as Colonial Architect from 1849 to 1854. Most people know Blacket for his churches and the University of Sydney, so a small police court is a bit of a sideline for him.

It was not an easy job to get built. Kelso says the project kept stalling because labour and materials were scarce and dear just as the colony boomed, and it was hard to find a contractor who could do the work. The State Heritage Register text, as reproduced on Wikipedia, adds that quarrying of the sandstone began at Bennelong Point in 1853, and that the gold rushes pushed prices up and drained the labour supply. More money was found and building started in 1854. The courthouse was finished in 1856.

Edmund Blacket, the Colonial Architect who designed the Water Police Office, about 1870. Unknown author, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Kelso describes it as a Palladian-influenced design, with two lower wings set back slightly from a central pedimented bay, a layout that turned up again in other NSW courthouses. The three arches and the porch behind them were open at first, but iron palisading soon went up to keep out stray goats. Inside was the courtroom with cedar joinery, with rooms for magistrates, clerks and records in the wings, and a separate privy block out the back. From 1858 to 1873 the Shipping Master's Office had the east wing.

According to the heritage listing text on Wikipedia, the building was occupied in April by the Water Police Magistrate, Hutchinson Hothersal Brown, with a Clerk of Petty Sessions and a second clerk, and its cases came under the Harbour Regulations Act and the Act for Establishing a Water Police. In May the Steam Navigation and Pilot Boards were given a room.

The new building did not win any beauty prizes. Former curator Nerida Campbell, writing for Museums of History NSW, says it was "not universally celebrated for its architecture" but was accepted as "well fitted for the purpose for which it is designed", quoting the Sydney Morning Herald of 29 April 1856. Its acoustics were another matter. The Evening News in 1902 complained that "If the magistrate speaks, one hears a voice proceeding from the roof, as if some ardent ventriloquist were displaying his talent." Kelso adds that coir matting was laid to deaden the noise and roof cowls added to fight the "stench" from nearby warehouses and from the courtroom regulars.

The Water Police Court in 1872, photographed by Charles Percy Pickering for the NSW Government Printing Office. Pickering, Charles Percy (New South Wales. Government Printing Office), Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Water Police Station, 1857–1858

Next door went the station. Kelso writes that money was allocated in 1855, but it was two years before the new Colonial Architect, Alexander Dawson, submitted a plan and a contractor was found. It was a T-shaped building of Pyrmont stone, with offices and a guardroom facing Phillip Street, cells behind, rooms for inspectors and a big barrack room upstairs, plus a separate kitchen block. It was finished in 1858. The heritage text says the upstairs barracks housed four water policemen and their families, and that the original design, based on stations at Darlinghurst, Newtown and Balmain, was trimmed back because of the gold rush costs.

The Water Police finally moved over from Cadman's Wharf. Kelso adds that the station grew two new cells in 1875–76, an exercise yard a couple of years later, and that the yard behind the court was enclosed to keep out "trysting" goats. The goats get a surprising amount of attention in this building's history.

The former Water Police Station at 8 Phillip Street, later called the Phillip Street Police Station. Sardaka, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Another view of the old station, photographed in 2007. Sardaka at en.wikipedia, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

James Barnet and the Police Court, 1884–1886

The third building is the one squeezed in between. Kelso writes that in 1884–85 a new courthouse was slotted between the two Water Police buildings, designed by Colonial Architect James Barnet, with three arches and a pediment that echoed Blacket's court. Barnet's double-height courtroom tried to fix the old complaints: linoleum and asphalt blocks on the floor to dampen sound, ventilation tubes in the walls, an unusual recessed skylight and an underfloor "air propeller" for a kind of early air-conditioning. Wikipedia gives Barnet's dates as 1827 to 16 December 1904 and says he was Colonial Architect from 1862 to 1890.

Campbell writes that the Police Court opened in 1886 and that its first magistrate, Mr Whittingdale Johnson, said, "There was chance now of those magistrates who were in good health not losing it, and of those who had suffered through the foul atmosphere of the old court regaining their health." He was quoted in the Sydney Morning Herald of 8 January 1886. I covered this building's green plaque in Sydney Police Court – Historical Marker Number 94.

James Barnet, Colonial Architect from 1862 to 1890, who designed the 1886 Police Court. Unknown photographer, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Later on, in the late 1890s, Government Architect Walter Liberty Vernon added bow-fronted weatherboard infills to the side arches of both courts. Kelso says they were mocked as looking like "little fruit, lolly, and soft-drink shops", quoting the Evening News of 20 November 1899.

The three arches and pediment of the court, looking along Phillip Street, 2012. sv1ambo, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Cases: Sailors, Wharf Crime and the Push

Don't let the name fool you. Kelso points out that the Water Police Court was not confined to maritime cases. Its patch stretched north from Bridge Street to Broken Bay and west to the Lane Cove River, and it dealt with a growing pile of minor criminal and public order matters, as well as preliminary hearings for serious crimes.

Campbell paints the picture well. In the 1850s, with the end of convict transportation and the gold rush, people of every kind flooded through the port, and crime rose along with trade. Most of the court's work was petty: offensive language, public drunkenness, careless "mistakes" after a night out, petty theft and break and enter. By 1880 it was dealing with more than 17,000 cases a year, she writes, citing the Sydney Morning Herald of 22 January 1881. The public gallery was its own show. The Evening News in March 1884 sniffed that "the same faces are visible in their dirt and repulsiveness, watching with interest and gloating over the scenes which are almost daily presented in the courts."

Circular Quay in 1871, crowded with sailing ships. The sailors off these ships kept the Water Police busy. Australian National Maritime Museum on The Commons, No restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons

Looking east over Circular Quay and the Government Domain from the Observatory in the 1870s. Aussie~mobs, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Rocks Push

Just across the Quay was The Rocks, and from the 1870s it had its own homegrown trouble. The Dictionary of Sydney describes the Rocks Push as a larrikin gang who "dominated and intimidated the residents of the Rocks from the 1870s to the 1890s by theft, assault and battery". Wikipedia's article on the gang says it fought running battles with rival pushes such as the Miller's Point Push, the Glebe Push and the Forty Thieves from Surry Hills. It also tells a grim story about female members luring drunks and seamen into dark lanes like Harrington Place, nicknamed the "Suez Canal", where they were assaulted and robbed. That story comes from Wikipedia rather than a court record, so take the gory details with a grain of salt.

Wikipedia also says the push leaders were decided by bare-knuckle fights, and that Larry Foley, later called the "Father of Australian Boxing", led a Catholic larrikin gang known as the Greens. In 1871 he fought Sandy Ross, leader of the Protestant "Orange" group, for 71 rounds before police stepped in. Wikipedia's article on larrikins quotes the Queanbeyan Age of 27 February 1892 describing "a horde of larrikins, known as the 'Rocks push'" abusing and attacking men at the Labour Bureau. The Water Police Court was the nearest bench to The Rocks for much of this time, so it is a safe bet it saw a fair share of push members, although none of the sources I read names a particular push case heard there.

"The Larrikin", from A Walk in Sydney Streets on the Shady Side, 1885, by Nelson P. Whitelocke. Nelson P Whitelocke (1861-1927), Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Mad Dentist and Captain Moonlite

The court's most notorious preliminary hearing, Campbell writes, was that of Henry Louis Bertrand, "the mad dentist of Wynyard Square". In 1865 he murdered Henry Kinder, the husband of his lover Maria Kinder, and dressed it up as suicide. When another of Maria's lovers wrote accusing him, Bertrand took the letter to the police, and the writer was sent to jail for a year for attempted blackmail by the Water Police magistrate. In his secret diary Bertrand wrote, "I am satisfied. Thus once more perish my enemies." Further inquiries led to his arrest along with his wife Jane and Maria Kinder. The Water Police magistrate heard part of the case in his private office to spare the two women from telling the details in public. Bertrand was found guilty but insane at a higher court. The museum holds the guns he bought and little bone carvings he made in prison.

Campbell also notes that the bushranger Andrew George Scott, alias Captain Moonlite, is known to have spent time in the Water Police Station. The museum has a plaster death mask made shortly after his execution.

Andrew George Scott, alias Captain Moonlite, about 1879. He spent time in the Water Police Station. believed to be Charles Nettleton (1826-1902), Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

From Water Police Court to Traffic Court

The 20th century brought big changes. According to Kelso, the Water Police moved to Dawes Point in 1913, and the Phillip Street building became a subsidiary station. The heritage text on Wikipedia says it was known from then on as the Phillip Street Police Station, though people still called it the Water Police Station, and that the court was still called the "Water Bench" until late 1940. In 1933 the station became head station of No. 4 Division of the Metropolitan Police District.

Kelso writes that the Water Police Court closed in 1918 to make way for the Police Traffic Branch, served as an inoculation depot during the 1918–19 influenza pandemic, and reopened in 1924 because courts elsewhere were overcrowded. With the motor car came two dedicated Traffic Courts and later a special Parking Court. The heritage text says that from 1926 the courts were known as Traffic Courts 1 and 2 and heard all traffic and parking offences in the Sydney district, while still taking shipping cases and Water Police matters.

There were some telling small changes along the way. In 1912, Kelso says, the iron spikes on the "cage-like dock" were taken off because it looked degrading and implied guilt. In 1945–46 the road levels were lowered for the Circular Quay railway loop, which is why the buildings now sit up on a split-level footpath. By the late 1940s the station was described as "the worst in the State" (The Sun, 3 May 1949), but rather than being knocked down, it was patched up again. A wartime concrete air-raid shelter ended up as the sergeants' room.

Phillip Street in the late 1880s, photographed by Arthur K. Syer. State Library of New South Wales collection, No restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons

The corner of Phillip and Bridge Streets in 1899. Bridge Street was the southern edge of the Water Police Court's patch. Photographic Collection from Australia, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Justice and Police Museum

The museum's roots go back to 1910. Kelso writes that a Police Museum opened at Police Headquarters that year, filled with confiscated weapons, gambling gear and housebreaking tools, to train recruits. It was called "the demonstrating laboratory in the policeman's school" (The Sun, 5 September 1926). It later moved to the Redfern Police Barracks, and by the 1970s a more public home was being looked for.

When the courts and police moved out of Phillip Street, the old buildings were the obvious choice. In 1986 the NSW Public Works Department began conserving them, stripping out later additions and returning them largely to their late-19th-century look. Kelso says a company, Justice & Police Museum Limited, was set up after the 1987 police reorganisation. The museum went to the Ministry for the Arts in 1988, the Historic Houses Trust of NSW took over in August 1989, and the Justice & Police Museum officially opened in 1991. The Historic Houses Trust later became Sydney Living Museums and is now part of Museums of History NSW. Campbell says the museum shows a courtroom, charge room and cell recreated to look as they did in the 1890s, when the complex was at its busiest.

The building around 1987, during the years it was being turned into a museum. Sardaka, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The sandstone courthouse in 2012. sv1ambo, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Collection and the Mugshots

The heritage text describes the collection as largely police-based, built on the 1910 Police Museum teaching collection, and especially strong in colonial firearms and forensic evidence from famous crimes. Campbell mentions evidence from the Pyjama Girl murder and items said to have belonged to the bushrangers Ben Hall, Thunderbolt, the Kelly gang, the Clarke gang and Frank Gardiner.

The best-known treasure is the police photographs. The Research Data Australia listing for the collection describes about 2,500 glass plate negatives, plus some cellulose negatives, of suspects, offenders and detainees taken by Sydney police between 1910 and the early 1930s. They are known as "Special Photographs", and the listing says they were mostly taken in the cells at Central Police Station. It quotes curator Peter Doyle saying the subjects seem to have been allowed, "perhaps invited", to pose themselves as they liked. Museums of History NSW explains that suspects hold handbags, papers and cigarettes, that a bentwood chair in the frame gave an idea of height, and that the lack of handcuffs meant a photo could be shown to a witness without prejudice. The listing names razor-gang era figures such as John Frederick "Chow" Hayes and Guido Calletti (spelt "Guidio" in the listing) among the sitters. I wrote about that era in Kate Leigh & Tilly Devine – Sydney's Razor Gang Queens.

Exhibitions

The museum's exhibition Underworld: Mugshots from the Roaring Twenties displayed more than 100 of these Specials, taken between 1920 and 1930 and reproduced from the original glass negatives. It is listed as a past exhibition. The current museum page lists a permanent display on Alexander Riley, the legendary Aboriginal police tracker, about the work of Aboriginal trackers for NSW Police in the 20th century. It also notes that the Police Cells are closed for conservation work and are due to reopen in early 2027 with a new exhibition. The museum opens on Saturdays and Sundays from 10am to 5pm.

The museum building on the corner of Phillip and Albert Streets, 2012. sv1ambo, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Bricks and stone said to come from the old Water Police Court. The photo was shared by a NSW records collection, and its original caption links the stone to the first years of the colony. Photographic Collection from Australia, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Heritage Listing

The complex was listed on the NSW State Heritage Register on 2 April 1999 as item 673, under the name "Justice and Police Museum; Police Station & Law Courts (former); Traffic Court", according to Wikipedia's article, which reproduces the register text. The listing says the buildings were the headquarters of one of the earliest policing bodies in NSW, closely tied to Sydney's growth as a port, and that they reflect "the work of four government architects over 48 years". It also notes the museum holds the only public collection in NSW of artefacts on the history of crime, law and policing. And it says, rather nicely, that the buildings' "endearingly human scale" gives an important foil to the towers around Circular Quay. The police station's own green plaque is in my post Phillip Street Police Station – Historical Marker 93.

Circular Quay in 1888, painted by Julian Ashton. Julian Ashton, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Water Police are still on Sydney Harbour today. This boat was photographed in 2008. Adam.J.W.C., CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Another Water Police vessel on the harbour, 2008. Adam.J.W.C., CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Timeline

• 1789 – A Row Boat Guard is set up on Sydney Harbour (Australian Police chronology).
• 1840 – The Water Police Act is passed (Australian Police chronology, Dictionary of Sydney).
• 1845–46 – The first Government House is demolished and its grounds are subdivided (MHNSW).
• 1846–1849 – The Water Police move into Cadman's Cottage (sources differ on the exact year).
• 1851 – The old Water Police Office in The Rocks is described as inadequate. The Phillip and Albert Street site is chosen.
• 1853 – Sandstone is quarried at Bennelong Point (SHR text).
• 1854 – Building begins on Blacket's Water Police Office.
• 1856 – The Water Police Court opens.
• 1857–58 – Dawson's Water Police Station is built.
• 1865 – The station gets gas lighting. Bertrand's preliminary hearing takes place.
• 1873 – The west wing clerks' room becomes a second courtroom.
• 1880 – The court handles more than 17,000 cases a year.
• 1884–86 – Barnet's Police Court is built and opens in January 1886.
• 1899–1900 – Vernon's timber and glass infills go into the arches.
• 1910 – The Police Museum opens at Police Headquarters.
• 1912 – The spikes come off the dock.
• 1913 – The Water Police move to Dawes Point.
• 1918–1924 – The Water Police Court is closed. The Traffic Branch moves in, and the building is used as a flu inoculation depot.
• 1926 – Traffic Courts 1 and 2 begin.
• 1933 – The station becomes head station of No. 4 Division.
• 1945–48 – The street levels are lowered for the Circular Quay railway.
• 1979–80 – The courts close.
• 1984–85 – The police station closes and the police leave.
• 1986 – Conservation work begins.
• 1989 – The Historic Houses Trust takes over.
• 1991 – The Justice & Police Museum officially opens.
• 1999 – The complex is listed on the State Heritage Register on 2 April.

Where the Sources Disagree

• Who designed the Water Police Station? It is sometimes credited to James Barnet. But Museums of History NSW (Kelso) and the State Heritage Register text both say Colonial Architect Alexander Dawson designed it, and Wikipedia's list of NSW Government Architects shows Barnet didn't become Colonial Architect until 1862, four years after the station was finished. Barnet's building on the site is the 1886 Police Court.
• When was the station built? The Dictionary of Sydney says the police station was built in 1857. MHNSW says it was completed in 1858, and the SHR text says construction began in 1857 and lists it as "1858 – Police Station".
• When was the Police Court built? Kelso says 1884–85. Campbell, the Dictionary of Sydney and the SHR text give 1886, which was when it opened.
• When did the courts close? Campbell says the courts closed in 1979, and the SHR text says late 1979. Kelso says the premises were vacated by 1980, and the SHR's list of court uses runs the Traffic Court to 1980.
• When did the police leave? Kelso says the station closed in early 1984. Campbell says the police left the site in 1985.
• When did the museum open? MHNSW says the museum officially opened in 1991. The Dictionary of Sydney says the buildings were adapted for the museum in 1990.
• How long were the Water Police at Cadman's Cottage? The Dictionary of Sydney says from 1846 to the mid-1850s. The Plan of Management says they took it over between 1846 and 1849, probably around 1849, and used it as a lock-up even after the new station opened.
• Lowering the roads. Kelso gives 1945–46. The SHR text gives 1947–48.

My Earlier Posts

• Cadman's Cottage
• Phillip Street Police Station – Corner Phillip St & Albert St – Green Plaque – Historical Marker 93
• Sydney Police Court – Historical Marker Number 94
• Darlinghurst Gaol & Darlinghurst Court
• Kate Leigh & Tilly Devine – Sydney's Razor Gang Queens

Sources

• Jane Kelso, "From Water Police Office to museum", Museums of History NSW, 20 February 2026 – mhnsw.au
• Nerida Campbell, "Gritty business", Museums of History NSW, 13 February 2023 – mhnsw.au
• Justice & Police Museum visitor page, Museums of History NSW – mhnsw.au
• "NSW Police 'Specials'", Museums of History NSW – mhnsw.au
• "Underworld: Mugshots from the Roaring Twenties", Museums of History NSW – mhnsw.au
• "Special Photographs – NSW Police Forensic Photography archive", Research Data Australia – researchdata.edu.au
• "Justice and Police Museum", Wikipedia, incorporating NSW State Heritage Register item 673 text (CC BY 4.0) – wikipedia.org
• "Water Police Court", Dictionary of Sydney – dictionaryofsydney.org
• "Water Police", Dictionary of Sydney – dictionaryofsydney.org
• "Cadman's cottage", Dictionary of Sydney – dictionaryofsydney.org
• "Rocks Push", Dictionary of Sydney – dictionaryofsydney.org
• NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service, Cadmans Cottage Historic Site Plan of Management – environment.nsw.gov.au
• "Chronology of Policing – NSW", Australian Police – australianpolice.com.au
• "Aboriginal people and place", Barani, City of Sydney – sydneybarani.com.au
• "Gadigal", Wikipedia – wikipedia.org
• "Rocks Push", Wikipedia – wikipedia.org
• "Larrikin", Wikipedia – wikipedia.org
• "Edmund Blacket", Wikipedia – wikipedia.org
• "James Barnet", Wikipedia – wikipedia.org
• "New South Wales Government Architect", Wikipedia – wikipedia.org
• All pictures are from Wikimedia Commons, with credits and licences under each picture.