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Showing posts with label Dubbo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dubbo. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 7, 2026

Taronga Zoo – From Moore Park to Bradleys Head

Most Sydneysiders have caught the ferry across to Taronga at least once, usually as a kid with a packed lunch, and we all know the view from the top of the hill. What a lot of people don't know is that the zoo started life on the other side of the harbour, on a swampy patch of Moore Park where Sydney Boys High and Sydney Girls High stand today. In 1916, in the middle of the Great War, the whole lot was packed up and moved. Lions, bears, monkeys, kangaroos, hundreds of birds and one very large elephant named Jessie all made the trip across Sydney to a new home on the bush slopes of Bradleys Head at Mosman.

This page follows the story from the start. It begins with the Zoological Society and the old Moore Park zoo, then the 1916 move and Jessie's early morning walk through the city, the opening of Taronga Zoological Park on 7 October 1916, and the years since. Those years brought gorillas and pandas, the Sky Safari, the open-range zoo at Dubbo and the conservation work Taronga is known for today. There's a timeline near the end, some notes on visiting, and the full list of sources at the bottom.

Lion at the Zoo, Moore Park, Sydney
A lion at the old Zoological Gardens, Moore Park. Glass plate negative from the Tyrrell collection. Kerry & Co / Powerhouse Museum Collection, no known copyright restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons

The Zoological Society and Billy Goat Swamp

It all goes back to 1879, when the NSW Zoological Society was formed. It later became the Royal Zoological Society of NSW. Animals weren't the first thing on its mind. Its early aim was the "introduction and acclimatisation of song birds and game", which was a very colonial idea of making the bush feel more like England. Before long, though, the members turned to something more ambitious: a proper public zoological garden for Sydney.

The City Council gave the Society a patch of Moore Park known, not very grandly, as Billy Goat Swamp. The sources tell this part slightly differently. Museums of History NSW says the Society leased 7 acres and that this was increased to 12.5 acres in 1881. Centennial Parklands says Council granted the 7 acres in 1883. Either way, the zoo began on about seven acres in Moore Park and grew from there.

Charles Moore, Director of the Botanic Gardens and a member of the Society, laid out the grounds. He had been looking after a small menagerie at the Botanic Gardens, and he moved those birds across to the new zoo. Animals started arriving in 1883, and the Zoological Gardens at Moore Park opened to the public in 1884. It was Sydney's first public zoo.

Two elephants: Jumbo and Jessie

Every self-respecting zoo of the time wanted an elephant. An elephant drew the crowds, and the rides brought in the money. By the end of 1883 Moore Park had two of them, and it's worth getting them straight because people mix them up all the time.

The first was a male, a gift from the King of Siam, who arrived in July 1883. He was named Jumbo, after the famous African elephant in P. T. Barnum's circus. The second was a female bought from the Calcutta Zoological Society. She arrived in Sydney on 30 November 1883 aboard the steamer Newcomen, which tied up at the Central Wharf at Millers Point, along with a number of mongooses. Two keepers, or mahouts, came with her. The papers gave their names as Parbuck and Eliback. Her name was Jessie, and she's the one who became a Sydney legend.

Getting her from the wharf to Moore Park didn't go to plan. The keepers meant to take her up in a van, but no sooner was she coaxed inside than she "walked out again before the doors could be fastened, brandishing [her] trunk and looking rather put out". They got her there in the end, and she was soon "quietly munching sugar cane" in a shed made ready for her.

Nobody really knew how old Jessie was. The Daily Telegraph of 1 December 1883 gave her age as "sweet seventeen". Museums of History NSW says she was believed to be about eight when she arrived. When she died in 1939 the Sydney Morning Herald called her 77, which would fit neither. The honest answer is that her age was a guess from the start.

What everyone did agree on was her temperament. Jessie was gentle and would "lie down, roll over, and do a great many other things at the word of command". People climbed steps to a platform and sat on a howdah, a saddle with bench seats on either side. Parbuck showed the crowds how a keeper mounted her the traditional way, with a foot on her trunk and a hand on each ear while Jessie gave a gentle hoist. She was so well known that "more hide than Jessie" became Sydney slang for a cheeky or brazen person.

Life at the Moore Park zoo

By the early 1900s Moore Park was a proper day out. There were refreshment rooms, gardens, picnic shelters, music and animal rides. There was an orangutan, a polar bear, "cages full" of lions, tigers and leopards, plus bears, dingoes, hyenas, a flock of flamingos, emus and songbirds. Kerry & Co's photographers came by with their big glass-plate cameras, which is why lovely portraits like the lion at the top of this page survive.

The site had real problems, though. It lived up to its old name and flooded. It was dusty and windswept, and the trams and traffic rattling past were noisy. In 1902 bubonic plague was found among the animals and the zoo closed for four months. Museums of History NSW says it was the wallabies, Centennial Parklands says kangaroos, and buildings were burnt and many animals lost. The zoo grew to 15 acres in 1905, and in August 1906 the Council extended the lease for another 14 years, but it had clearly outgrown the place.

Attitudes were changing too. People were starting to object to animals kept in small barred cages on concrete floors with little sun. When the Society's president, Charles Hedley, later made the case for a new zoo, he called the Moore Park grounds "mean and unhealthy" and "not worthy of this wealthy State, of this great city".

A new idea: a zoo without bars

The man who changed everything was Albert Sherbourne Le Souef. He was appointed secretary of the Zoological Society in 1903, a job that was really the zoo director's role. Le Souef was young and full of ideas. In 1908 he and Dr Robert Todd went on a world tour of zoos and came home inspired by Carl Hagenbeck's zoo at Hamburg. There the animals lived in open-air enclosures without bars, kept apart from visitors by moats and ditches instead of cages. Le Souef wanted the same for Sydney.

Choosing Bradleys Head

Plenty of sites were put forward. The list included Long Bay, Upper Lane Cove, Harris Park, Tempe, Little Coogee Bay, Rockdale, Queens Park, Maroubra, Bondi and Vaucluse. Le Souef had his heart set on Bradleys Head, on the northern side of the harbour. It had bushland, rocky slopes, harbour views, and the city was only a short ferry ride away.

In 1911 Acting Premier William Holman announced the government's policy of "preserving the foreshores of Sydney Harbour for the people". At that same event Charles Hedley put the case for part of Mosman's Ashton Park to be set aside for a new zoo. It worked. In 1912 the site was chosen and more than 40 acres were reserved. Wikipedia gives the grant as 43 acres (17 hectares), with a further 9 acres added in 1916. It was all handed to a new body, the Taronga Zoological Park Trust.

What does "Taronga" mean?

Taronga is an Aboriginal word, usually given as meaning "beautiful view". You'll find that meaning on Wikipedia and on Taronga's own material. Some sources say "water view" instead, and some link the word to the Cammeraygal people, the traditional owners of the Mosman side of the harbour. I couldn't find a primary source that settles it, so I'll just say it's usually translated as "beautiful view". Anyone who has stood at the top gate and looked back at the city will agree it fits.

Sydney Harbour seen from Taronga Park, about 1920
The view that gave the place its name: Sydney Harbour from Taronga Park, about 1920. Government Printing Office / State Library of New South Wales, no known copyright restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons

Building the new zoo

Taronga was planned around the land rather than flattening it. The enclosures were built from natural and artificial rock to keep as much of the bushland as possible. The seal ponds even had imitation ice floes. Le Souef made plasticine models and worked out how wide the moats had to be from how far each animal could leap. As he put it, there would be "nothing between the public and the animal but air space".

As each enclosure was finished, animals were put in to test it. The rhesus monkeys happily obliged by escaping, so the walls were built higher. One of the earliest features still standing is the Rustic Bridge, opened in 1915 over a natural gully. Its stone-studded walls were meant to look like an Italian grotto.

1916: How to move a zoo

Now to the part I most wanted to tell: the move. It happened over about six months in 1916, at the height of the First World War. Hundreds of animals and birds left the old cages at Moore Park and were walked, carted or carried through the streets to the harbour, then ferried across to Taronga. The newspapers called it a "miniature Noah's Ark".

Sydneysiders certainly noticed. One report described "mournful yells from hyenas, angry roars from lions and tigers, good-humored snorts from gigantic elephants hauling a veritable menagerie of wild beasts confined in cages" disturbing "the early morning serenity of Sydney streets". Centennial Parklands says Moore Park closed in July 1916, when the Taronga trustees took over all the staff and animals, believed to be 177 animals and 329 birds. By the end of 1916 Taronga held 228 mammals, 552 birds and 64 reptiles.

Jessie's walk across Sydney

The star of the move was Jessie. At around 4 tons (over 4,000 kilograms) she was by far the biggest animal to make the trip, and she did most of it on foot.

In the early hours of Sunday 24 September 1916, Jessie walked out of the Moore Park gates for the last time. Her home of more than 30 years was behind her. With her were three keepers, led by the head keeper, Mr Miller, and behind them in a car came Dr Robert Todd, one of the Taronga trustees. They led her along Dowling, Flinders, Bourke, Woolloomooloo and Palmer streets, across the Domain and down Macquarie Street to Bennelong Point, where the Opera House stands today.

It wasn't easy on her. Her feet got sore on the hard road, and she grew nervous in places, but "a pat on the shoulder, or a reassuring grip on her ear" kept her going through the narrow streets and over the tram lines. Along the way a horse pulling a milk cart took one look at her and bolted. You can only imagine the milkman's face.

At Bennelong Point a vehicle ferry, a punt, was waiting. This is where I want to be clear, because the story often gets muddled. Jessie wasn't lifted in a crate or towed on a barge. She walked on board the vehicle ferry herself. The Evening News of 25 September 1916 reported:

"With hardly any hesitation, Jessie walked on to the punt, and ran her trunk over the outer gate, as if inquiring whether she would remove the obstacle. A word from her keeper, and she stood as still as a rock during the trip down the harbour."

The trip took about 35 minutes. Two photographs of that morning survive, and they're my favourite pictures on this page. In the first, Jessie stands on the deck with her keepers in their caps and coats beside her.

Jessie the elephant on the vehicle ferry crossing Sydney Harbour, 1916
Jessie standing on the deck of the vehicle ferry with her keepers on the trip across the harbour to Taronga, September 1916. Unknown photographer (Mosman Library), public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Getting off was the tense bit. The pontoon at Taronga dipped alarmingly under her weight, but her keepers talked her through it and "she finally tip-toed across the pontoon and on to the wharf". By 7 am she'd been shown into her new home, an elephant house built to look like an Indian temple.

Jessie the elephant coming off the vehicular ferry at Taronga, 1916
Jessie coming off the vehicular ferry on her way into the new zoo, 1916. Unknown photographer, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

One small warning about these pictures. The caption on one of them on Wikimedia Commons says Jessie was "a gift from the King of Siam". She wasn't. That was Jumbo. Jessie was bought from the Calcutta Zoological Society. It's an easy mix-up, and it shows how the two elephants have blurred together in Sydney's memory.

The elephant house at Taronga, 1916
The elephant house at Taronga in 1916, built to look like an Indian temple. This was Jessie's new home. Royal Australian Historical Society, no known copyright restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons

NSW State Archives holds more than 100 glass-plate negatives of the final days of Moore Park and the early years of Taronga, and they've been digitised. Museums of History NSW used them in the "How to Move a Zoo" exhibition at the Museum of Sydney from 20 November 2021 to 24 April 2022. Many of the best pictures of the animals in transit are in that collection rather than on Wikimedia Commons, so I've listed where to find them in the sources.

The opening of Taronga Zoological Park

Before the official opening, the government offered every schoolchild in metropolitan Sydney a free day at the new zoo. It was partly advertising, but it also gave families a bit of joy in a grim wartime year. Between 100,000 and 120,000 children, with their mothers and little brothers and sisters, came over the following months. One reporter watched them charge up the hill, "spilling peanuts as they ran in a wild contest to reach the monkey cages first". He compared the scramble, in the way people did in 1916, to the charge up the hillside at Gallipoli.

The official opening came on 7 October 1916, when Premier William Holman opened Taronga Zoological Park before a crowd of invited guests. Taronga puts the attendance at about 1,200.

Official opening of Taronga Zoo, 1916
The official opening of the zoo, October 1916. Royal Australian Historical Society, no known copyright restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons
Entrance to Taronga Zoological Park, 1916
The entrance to Taronga Zoological Park in its first year, 1916. Government Printing Office / State Library of New South Wales, no known copyright restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons

Getting there by ferry

From the very beginning the ferry was the way to get to Taronga, and it still is. Ferries brought crowds straight from Circular Quay to the wharf below the zoo. One of the photos below shows the ferry Kirawa at the zoo wharf in October 1916, the month the zoo opened. Families walked up the hill from the water, and later generations caught the tram or bus to the top gate.

Ferry Kirawa at Taronga Zoo wharf, October 1916
The ferry Kirawa tied up at the zoo wharf in October 1916, the month Taronga opened. Unknown photographer (NSW State Archives), public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Crowds arriving at Taronga Park around 1916
Crowds arriving at Taronga Park, around 1916. Sam Hood / State Library of New South Wales, no known copyright restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons

The early years

Jessie went straight back to work at Taronga, giving rides to generations of Sydney kids. She'd already been a hard worker at Moore Park. In six months of 1916 her rides there brought in £146 15s, about $15,000 in today's money, and she carried more than 35,000 people at a penny a ride. At Taronga the rides carried on for decades.

Elephant rides at Taronga, 1917
Elephant rides at Taronga in 1917. A penny a ride kept the zoo going for years. Royal Australian Historical Society, no known copyright restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons

Other attractions came along. The Aquarium opened in 1929 and quickly became one of the most popular parts of the zoo. The old photos show refreshment rooms, lawns and picnic spots, and Taronga became the place Sydney families went on a fine weekend.

Goodbye, Jessie

Jessie died at Taronga on Tuesday 26 September 1939, almost 56 years after she first came ashore at Millers Point. Sydney was genuinely sad to lose her. The next day the Sydney Morning Herald ran a photograph from her last birthday party and noted that more than 1,500,000 children had ridden on her back. That's a lot of happy kids from one gentle old elephant.

Sir Edward Hallstrom and King Kong

In 1941 Sir Edward Hallstrom was appointed a trustee, and he launched a review of exhibit design and animal welfare. In 1956 an Act of Parliament made the Taronga Zoological Park Trust a body corporate, which let it run more like a business.

Then in 1959 came Australia's first gorilla. Five-year-old "King Kong" arrived from California and moved into a purpose-built "Gorilla Villa". He was a sensation, and attendance went up 26 per cent to 914,000 in 1959–60.

Not every idea of that era aged well. In 1964 the seal pool was converted to hold dolphins, to compete with the marine parks of the day. Taronga's own history admits the dolphins did badly, with an average lifespan of less than a year.

A new era: from entertainment to conservation

The big turning point came in 1967. A critical review set Taronga on a new path, with scientific conservation, education and preservation taking priority over entertainment. New exhibits designed to hide the buildings in the landscape followed: the Platypus House (1968), the walk-through Rainforest Aviary (1970) and the Nocturnal House (1972), plus new waterholes.

The 1970s brought the zoo's first master plan (1970) and its first dedicated veterinary building (1971). Volunteers started in 1974, and the Education Centre and Friendship Farm opened in 1976. That same year the elephant rides and the merry-go-round stopped, and so did the miniature train and the monkey circus. For anyone who grew up riding an elephant at Taronga, that was the end of an era. It was the right call, though, and it marked the new focus on animal welfare. A new Seal Theatre opened in 1979, with the seals showing natural behaviours instead of tricks.

Taronga Western Plains Zoo, Dubbo

Bradleys Head is beautiful but steep and cramped, and big plains animals like elephants and antelope need room. As far back as 1965 Sir Edward Hallstrom wrote to the government about land for a "Living Zoo". Taronga's director Ronald Strahan took up the idea, and in 1972 the government announced Australia's first full-scale open-range zoo on an old World War II army camp just outside Dubbo.

Western Plains Zoo opened on 28 February 1977. It was officially opened by the NSW Governor, Sir Roden Cutler, and cost about $2.8 million. It was the first zoo built in Australia in 60 years, the first since Taronga itself, and the first designed on open-range lines, with concealed moats instead of fences. Today it's Taronga Western Plains Zoo, and you can drive, cycle or walk its 5-kilometre circuit.

The 1980s: Sky Safari and pandas

In 1982 Taronga imported thirteen Przewalski's horses for a breeding program, at a time when the species was close to extinction. The Australian Registry of Wildlife Health was founded at the zoo in 1985.

1987 was a big year. The Taronga Aerial Cabin Ride opened to carry visitors from the wharf up the steep hill to the top of the zoo. We came to know it as the Sky Safari. The same year a breeding program for the greater bilby began, and five joeys were born in its first six months.

Then for the Bicentenary in 1988, China lent Australia two giant pandas, and Taronga had them for a season. Taronga's own figures say 623,390 people came to see the pair in just three months. In 1989 Taronga became a founding member of the International Rhino Foundation, and it opened the first conservation and research centre in any Australasian zoo.

A zoo for a new century

In 2000 a 12-year, $250 million master plan began, with most of the money going to Taronga. The Backyard to Bush precinct opened in April 2003. Also in 2003, Taronga became the second zoo in Australia to breed the platypus.

The biggest and most argued-over project was bringing elephants back. Under the plan Taronga took five Asian elephants from Thailand for breeding and conservation. Activists in Thailand blockaded the trucks taking them to Bangkok's airport on 5 June 2006, but the elephants came anyway and moved into the Wild Asia precinct, which had opened in July 2005, in November 2006. At 3.04 am on 4 July 2009, Thong Dee gave birth to Luk Chai, the first elephant calf born in Australia. A second calf, Pathi Harn, whose name means "miracle", was born on 10 March 2010, two days after the zoo had announced he was probably dead. The Great Southern Oceans marine precinct opened in April 2008, and the same year the two zoos became Taronga Conservation Society Australia.

The elephant chapter at Bradleys Head has since closed. The last two elephants at Taronga Sydney, Pak Boon and Tang Mo, left in April 2025 for Monarto Safari Park in South Australia. Their old exhibit became the Rhino Reserve. Its first resident is Hari, a greater one-horned rhinoceros born at Dubbo in October 2021 and moved to Sydney in December 2025, who shares it with three water buffalo.

One hundred years

Taronga turned 100 in 2016 and celebrated with a parade through the city streets, a nice echo of Jessie's walk a century earlier. The 160-seat Centenary Theatre opened, and the zoo made a ten-year commitment to ten "Legacy Species": the bilby, koala, marine turtles, platypus, regent honeyeater and southern corroboree frog at home, and the Sumatran elephant, rhinoceros and tiger, sun bear and Sunda pangolin overseas.

More new precincts followed. Tiger Trek opened in August 2017. The Taronga Institute of Science and Learning, known as "The Hive" for its honeycomb design, was officially opened on 16 October 2018 by Prince Harry and Meghan, the Duke and Duchess of Sussex. The Wildlife Retreat, where you can stay overnight, opened in October 2019, and the African Savannah precinct followed in June 2020. In August 2021 the lioness Maya gave birth to five cubs, the first lion litter at the zoo in 18 years. The Nura Diya Australia precinct opened in 2023, and the Amphibian and Reptile Conservation Centre in June 2024.

Bushfires, lockdowns and a lion scare

During the Black Summer fires of 2019–20, Taronga staff treated injured wildlife and gave displaced animals a safe place. When COVID closed both zoos, Taronga launched Taronga TV online. In 2021 ten greater bilbies bred at Dubbo were released into Sturt National Park, more than a century after bilbies were declared extinct in NSW.

Then there was the morning of 2 November 2022. At 6.40 am five lions, a male and four cubs, got out of their main enclosure through a hole in a fence. None got past the secondary fence, nobody was hurt, and the lions were back in their enclosure that morning, with one cub tranquillised. It made headlines around the world, but it never came close to being a disaster.

The Sky Safari: gone and coming back

Sky Safari cable car at Taronga Zoo
The Sky Safari gondolas over the zoo, 2006. The first cable car ran from 1987 to January 2023. Simon_sees, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Sky Safari was updated in 2000 and gave us more than 30 years of gondola rides over the giraffes with the harbour spread out behind them. It closed on 31 January 2023 at the end of its working life. A $105 million replacement was approved by the NSW Government despite local objections about taller pylons, tree removal and harbour views. Sydney Zoo even lodged an objection on competition grounds. On 23 April 2026 Taronga announced that construction had begun. The new Sky Safari keeps the original 900-metre route, its bigger gondolas will take prams, wheelchairs and groups of up to ten, and a new lower station will link it better with the ferry wharf. Taronga is aiming for a late 2027 reopening, while other reports give 2027–28, and the zoo stays open during the works.

Conservation at Taronga today

The zoo that started out showing off lions in cages is now mostly about keeping species alive in the wild. A few recent examples from Taronga's own news in 2026:

  • Northern corroboree frogs: In May 2026 about 700 Taronga-bred frogs were released into Brindabella National Park, the largest release of the species yet. The insurance population at Taronga was set up in 2010 and holds about 370 adult frogs.
  • Southern corroboree frogs: In June 2026, marking 20 years of work on the species, Taronga released 1,450 eggs into Kosciuszko National Park.
  • Christmas Island blue-tailed skinks: These skinks died out in the wild. In 2010 Parks Australia rescued 66 of them, and some went to Taronga. In September 2026, 123 skinks from Taronga travelled by air, road and sea to the Cocos (Keeling) Islands for a release of 545 skinks onto Horsburgh Island.
  • Regent honeyeaters: Taronga has worked on their recovery for more than 20 years. It has released more than 200 birds and helped plant over 30,000 trees in the Capertee Valley.
  • Sanctuary One: Taronga's third site is a 3,050-hectare property on the North West Slopes of NSW, where it is restoring box-gum woodland.

Taronga Sydney now covers about 28 hectares and holds more than 5,000 animals of around 350 species. A new Taronga Wildlife Hospital, built on the old reptile house site, is due in 2027 to care for the zoo's own animals and for wildlife from across NSW.

Taronga Zoo ferry wharf in 2019
Taronga Zoo ferry wharf in 2019. The ferry is still the best way to arrive. Mitch Ames, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Timeline

  • 1879 – NSW Zoological Society formed.
  • 1883 – Moore Park land (Billy Goat Swamp) granted. Jumbo arrives in July, and Jessie on 30 November aboard the Newcomen.
  • 1884 – Zoological Gardens at Moore Park open to the public.
  • 1902 – Bubonic plague in the animals closes the zoo for four months.
  • 1903 – Albert Sherbourne Le Souef appointed secretary.
  • 1905–06 – Site grows to 15 acres, and the lease is extended for 14 years.
  • 1908 – Le Souef and Dr Robert Todd tour the world's zoos, including Hagenbeck's at Hamburg.
  • 1911 – Charles Hedley argues for a zoo in Ashton Park, Mosman.
  • 1912 – Bradleys Head site chosen and more than 40 acres set aside.
  • 1915 – Rustic Bridge opens.
  • 1916 – Moore Park closes in July and the animals move over the year. Jessie crosses the harbour on 24 September, and Premier Holman opens Taronga on 7 October.
  • 1921 and 1928 – Sydney Girls High and Sydney Boys High built on the old zoo site.
  • 1929 – Aquarium opens.
  • 1939 – Jessie dies on 26 September.
  • 1941 – Sir Edward Hallstrom appointed trustee.
  • 1959 – King Kong, Australia's first gorilla, arrives.
  • 1967 – Review turns the zoo towards conservation and education.
  • 1968–72 – Platypus House, Rainforest Aviary and Nocturnal House built.
  • 1976 – Elephant rides end, and the Education Centre and Friendship Farm open.
  • 1977 – Western Plains Zoo, Dubbo, opens on 28 February.
  • 1987 – Aerial Cabin Ride (Sky Safari) opens.
  • 1988 – Bicentennial giant pandas visit.
  • 2000 – $250 million master plan begins.
  • 2006 – Asian elephants arrive from Thailand.
  • 2008 – Great Southern Oceans opens, and the zoos become Taronga Conservation Society Australia.
  • 2009 – Luk Chai, the first elephant born in Australia, arrives on 4 July.
  • 2016 – Centenary, with a city parade and the Legacy Species commitment.
  • 2018 – Institute of Science and Learning opens on 16 October.
  • 2022 – Lion scare on 2 November.
  • 2023 – Sky Safari retires on 31 January, and Nura Diya Australia opens.
  • 2025 – Last elephants leave for Monarto in April, and Hari the rhino arrives in December.
  • 2026 – New Sky Safari construction starts in April, alongside record frog and skink releases.

Visiting today

Do it the old way and catch the ferry from Circular Quay. It takes about 12 minutes to Taronga Zoo wharf, the same trip Jessie made in 1916, though she was on her feet the whole way. While the Sky Safari is being rebuilt you'll be walking up from the lower entrance, so wear good shoes because it's a steep hill. Buses also run to the top entrance: route 100 from the QVB, and route 238 from Balmoral, which links both entrances. Opening hours change with the seasons (9.30 am to 4.30 pm in winter and 9.30 am to 5 pm from September to April at last check), so look at taronga.org.au before you go.

If you want to see where it all began, walk up to the high schools on Moore Park. The remains of the old bear pit can still be seen within the grounds of Sydney Girls High. It's not open to the public, so check before you go. And if you're heading west, Taronga Western Plains Zoo at Dubbo is a cracking day out, with lots of room for the big animals.

Related posts on this blog

Sources

Tuesday, August 10, 2021

History Of Dubbo - New South Wales

Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander readers are advised that this page contains the names and images of people who have died.

Dubbo sits on the Macquarie River, the Wambuul, out on the edge of the western plains, about 400 kilometres from Sydney by road. It's Wiradjuri country. Europeans first came through with John Oxley in 1818, a squatter named Robert Dulhunty took up a run there in the early 1830s, and by 1849 a little bush settlement with a lock-up, a store and an inn had been gazetted as a village. From there it grew into a municipality in 1872, got the railway in 1881, became a city in 1966 and now draws people from all over to its gaol, its old slab homestead and its big open-range zoo. Below is my original post, followed by the longer story.

The History Of Dubbo - New South Wales


 

Dubbo - New South Wales

Dubbo is a city located in the Orana region of New South Wales, Australia.

1. Indigenous History: The Dubbo region has a long history of human occupation by the Wiradjuri people, who are the traditional custodians of the land. They have lived in the area for thousands of years and have a rich cultural heritage.

2. European Settlement: European exploration of the Dubbo area began in the early 19th century. In 1818, John Oxley, an explorer and surveyor, visited the area. The river nearby had already been named the Macquarie River after Governor Lachlan Macquarie by George Evans in 1812-13.

3. Establishment of Dubbo: Dubbo was gazetted as a village in November 1849. Storekeeper Jean Emile Serisier had organised a petition in 1848 for a sale of town allotments, and surveyor G. Boyle White's plan for the township on the banks of the Macquarie River was presented to the Surveyor General in May 1849. The name Dubbo comes from the Wiradjuri language (Dhubu, thought to come from the word thubbo).

4. Growth and Development: Dubbo grew steadily, benefiting from its strategic location as a crossing point on the Macquarie River and along major stock routes. It served as an important center for pastoralists, gold miners, and those seeking new opportunities in the expanding western regions of New South Wales.

5. Infrastructure and Services: Over time, Dubbo developed essential infrastructure and services. On 1 February 1881, the railway line reached the town, connecting it to Sydney and facilitating transportation of goods and people. The town also established educational institutions, hospitals, and other amenities.

6. Economic Activities: The local economy of Dubbo has been predominantly based on agriculture, particularly sheep and cattle farming. The region is known for its agricultural productivity, including wheat, wool, cotton, and other crops.

7. Cultural Heritage: The Wiradjuri people have a significant presence in Dubbo, and their cultural heritage is celebrated and respected.

8. Tourism: Dubbo has become a popular tourist destination, attracting visitors with its attractions such as the Taronga Western Plains Zoo, the Old Dubbo Gaol (a former prison turned museum), and various outdoor recreational activities.

Today, Dubbo is a thriving regional center, serving as a hub for commerce, education, health services, and tourism. It continues to grow and evolve while preserving its historical and cultural significance.

The Longer Story of Dubbo

Wiradjuri Country and the Name "Dubbo"

Long before any surveyor turned up, this was Wiradjuri land. Wikipedia's Dubbo article says evidence of Wiradjuri habitation goes back more than 40,000 years. The Wiradjuri are one of the biggest Aboriginal nations in New South Wales, and the river through town carries its Wiradjuri name, Wambuul, alongside the English one.

Nobody is completely sure what "Dubbo" means, and it's worth being honest about that. The Wiradjuri spelling is given as Dhubu. The usual view is that "Dubbo" is a mispronunciation of a Wiradjuri word, thubbo. Because Dulhunty didn't leave precise records, and today's knowledge of the language is incomplete, there's more than one story. Some say the word meant "red soil", which fits the red earth around town. Others say thubbo or tubbo meant "head covering". A third version says Dubbo was the name of an old Wiradjuri man who was living at the spot when Dulhunty took up the land.

The Macquarie River, Wambuul, as it runs through Dubbo, April 2026
The Macquarie River, Wambuul, as it runs through Dubbo, April 2026. SnowyRiver28, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Another view of the Wambuul at Dubbo, April 2026
Another view of the Wambuul at Dubbo, April 2026. SnowyRiver28, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Oxley Comes Down the Macquarie, 1818

The river had already been named by the time Oxley got there. George Evans, the deputy surveyor, came across its upper reaches near Bathurst in 1812–13 and named it after Governor Lachlan Macquarie. In 1817 and 1818 John Oxley was sent off to trace the Lachlan and then the Macquarie, and he's recorded as the first European to report on the country that's now Dubbo, in 1818.

Oxley's journal, published in 1820, describes the river below Wellington with "rich flats on either side", long reaches "literally covered with water-fowl", and a current you could barely see. He followed it down until it spread out into an "ocean of reeds" in what we now call the Macquarie Marshes. That convinced him he was close to an inland sea. He was wrong about the sea, but his reports of good grazing country were what brought the squatters.

Portrait of John Oxley, 1810, watercolour held by the State Library of New South Wales
Portrait of John Oxley, 1810, watercolour held by the State Library of New South Wales. Unknown artist, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Oxley's chart of part of the interior of New South Wales, showing the Lachlan and Macquarie country
Oxley's chart of part of the interior of New South Wales, showing the Lachlan and Macquarie country. John Oxley; engraved by A. Arrowsmith, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Robert Dulhunty and Dubbo Station

Robert Venour Dulhunty was born in Paignton, Devon, in 1803 and arrived in Sydney as a free settler on the Guildford on 5 March 1824, with his brother Lawrence. He got a 2,000-acre grant at Cullen Bullen and later lived mostly at Claremont in the Mulgoa Valley near Penrith.

Sometime between 1829 and 1833 he set out from Penrith with about 40 Aboriginal people in his party, crossed the mountains and followed the Macquarie down to Dubbo. When surveyor Robert Dixon passed through in 1833 to survey the Bogan, he noted he'd borrowed a dray from Dulhunty, so it's believed Dulhunty took up the land in about 1832. He liked using Aboriginal names for his properties, and "Dubbo" was one of them. After the Squatting Act of 1836 he took out a licence for Dubbo Station, in 1837.

By 1839 he had 28 free men and 18 assigned convicts working at Dubbo. His Wikipedia biography says he had a name as a fair boss who seldom had his convicts flogged. He hit his peak around 1839–40 with half a dozen big runs, then the depression of the early 1840s cost him dearly. He moved his family permanently to Dubbo in 1847 and died on 30 December 1853.

A Lock-up, a Store and an Inn: The 1849 Village

By 1846 there were enough settlers about that the government decided Dubbo needed a courthouse, police station and lock-up. A constable's residence went up in 1847, and a wooden slab courthouse and lock-up were finished early in 1848. That was the whole of Dubbo then, four buildings: the constable's house, the courthouse and lock-up, a store and an inn.

Nobody had title to their land, so in 1848 the storekeeper, Jean Emile Serisier, got a petition going asking for a sale of town allotments. Surveyor G. Boyle White sent a plan to the Surveyor General in May 1849, the place was gazetted as a village in November 1849, and the first land sales were held in 1850.

Dubbo Court House, about 1881
Dubbo Court House, about 1881. State Records NSW (Photographic Collection from Australia), CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Dubbo Court House in 1889
Dubbo Court House in 1889. State Records NSW (Photographic Collection from Australia), CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Gold, Trade and the Roads North and South

Growth was slow at first. According to Wikipedia's Dubbo article, it was the gold rush trade of the 1860s, with traffic moving north and south through town, that really got things going. The first bank opened in 1867. By 1872 there were 850 people, and Dubbo was proclaimed a municipality that year.

Dubbo became a law-and-order centre for a huge stretch of the west. The heritage listing for the gaol makes the point that it was a regional centre for the courts before it became a place for commerce and settlement. The courthouse that stands today was built in 1887, and Kgbo's photo of the gate shows the date 1888.

The Dubbo Courthouse in November 2007
The Dubbo Courthouse in November 2007. Michael Gardner (MichaelGG), Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
The date 1888 on the gate of the Dubbo Court House
The date 1888 on the gate of the Dubbo Court House. Kgbo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Macquarie Street, Dubbo, in the 1920s
Macquarie Street, Dubbo, in the 1920s. State Records NSW (Photographic Collection from Australia), CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Old Dubbo Gaol

The gaol in Macquarie Street grew up on the site of the town's very first courthouse. The NSW State Heritage Register record, summarised on Wikipedia, gives a long list of building dates. A new stone lock-up in 1871 was the start of the gaol proper. A hospital, kitchen block, perimeter wall and watchtowers followed between 1877 and 1880, and big alterations, including the women's cells, came in 1886–87. It's believed to have been officially opened as a gaol in 1887. Inside the walls are 12 ordinary cells plus solitary cells, a padded cell and a condemned cell, and the gallows have been re-erected.

The gaol closed in 1966. The state government planned to knock it down for an office block, but Dubbo City Council and the local historical society fought it. In 1973 it was handed to the council, and it opened as a tourist attraction in 1974. It was added to the State Heritage Register on 26 March 2004.

Old Dubbo Gaol, 2021
Old Dubbo Gaol, 2021. Kgbo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Inside Old Dubbo Gaol, 2021
Inside Old Dubbo Gaol, 2021. Kgbo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Old Dubbo Gaol, 2021
Old Dubbo Gaol, 2021. Kgbo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Old Dubbo Gaol, 2022
Old Dubbo Gaol, 2022. Kgbo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The gaol entrance on Macquarie Street, 2007
The gaol entrance on Macquarie Street, 2007. Sheba_Also 43,000 photos, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
State Heritage Register plan of Old Dubbo Gaol
State Heritage Register plan of Old Dubbo Gaol. Heritage Division, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Jacky Underwood and the Breelong Murders

The best-known name tied to the gaol is Jack (Jacky) Underwood. On the night of 20 July 1900, Jimmy Governor, his brother Joe and Underwood attacked the Mawbey family's homestead at Breelong near Gilgandra, killing members of the family and the schoolteacher Ellen Kerz. Underwood split from the Governor brothers and was caught on 24 July at William Shaw's selection near Leadville, where he'd called in claiming to be "Charlie Brown".

He was tried at Dubbo on 2 October 1900 before Judge G. B. Simpson for the murder of Percy Mawbey. The jury found him guilty, though it told the court it couldn't decide who had struck the fatal blows. He was sentenced to death, waited months in the cell at Dubbo Gaol, and was hanged there on 14 January 1901. Jimmy Governor was caught near Wingham, tried in Sydney and hanged at Darlinghurst Gaol in January 1901. Joe Governor was shot dead north of Singleton. I've told the full story in my Jimmy Governor and Gilgandra page.

Jack Underwood, photographed after his capture in July 1900
Jack Underwood, photographed after his capture in July 1900. Unknown author, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Jacky Underwood with police after his capture, published in the Daily Telegraph, 30 July 1900
Jacky Underwood with police after his capture, published in the Daily Telegraph, 30 July 1900. Unknown author, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Jimmy Governor, 1900
Jimmy Governor, 1900. Unknown author, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
A mounted posse during the hunt for the Governor brothers, 1900
A mounted posse during the hunt for the Governor brothers, 1900. State Library of New South Wales collection, no known copyright restrictions, via Wikimedia Commons

The Railway Arrives, 1881

The Main Western line was extended from Wellington and formally opened to Dubbo on 1 February 1881. Most of the stone station buildings went up between 1879 and 1881 under John Whitton, the railways' Engineer-in-Chief. The station building is a stone "first class" type with a refreshment room, and a stone station master's house in Talbragar Street was finished the same year.

Dubbo became a proper railway town, with a junction for the Main Western, Molong–Dubbo and Coonamble lines and a big loco depot. It was as far west as the heavy 36, 38 and 60 class engines went; smaller locos took over beyond. The last piece of the Molong to Dubbo line opened in May 1925, and that line was decommissioned in 1988. Trains from Sydney still finish at Dubbo, with coaches carrying on to Bourke, Broken Hill, Lightning Ridge and other towns.

Dubbo Railway Station, from the State Heritage Register listing
Dubbo Railway Station, from the State Heritage Register listing. B. Hanna, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Dubbo railway station in 2017
Dubbo railway station in 2017. Bahnfrend, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Station Master's House at Dubbo
The Station Master's House at Dubbo. B. Hanna, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Dubbo waiting for the royal visit, 10 February 1954
Dubbo waiting for the royal visit, 10 February 1954. State Records NSW (Photographic Collection from Australia), CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Dundullimal Homestead

About 7 kilometres south of town on Obley Road, just past the zoo, is Dundullimal, built by John Maughan on his sheep run beside the Macquarie. It's believed to be the oldest surviving slab hut house in Australia. The National Trust owns it, and it went on the State Heritage Register on 1 March 2002. The run sat in the old Wellington Squatting District, beyond Governor Darling's "limits of location", where squatters took up land under the 1836 licences.

The entrance to Dundullimal Homestead
The entrance to Dundullimal Homestead. Bidgee, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The stables at Dundullimal Homestead, 2021
The stables at Dundullimal Homestead, 2021. Kgbo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
An old wool press in the stables at Dundullimal, 2021
An old wool press in the stables at Dundullimal, 2021. Kgbo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The River and Its Floods

The Macquarie has always been both Dubbo's reason for being and its biggest worry. Oxley noticed it in 1818, writing about "the vast body of water which this river must contain in times of flood". The river's recorded flood history includes serious flooding in 1955 and heavy flooding of low-lying land along the river in 1979. In November and December 2010 there was major flooding on the lower Macquarie. Burrendong Dam near Wellington now holds back the river for flood control and irrigation.

Dubbo in the Second World War

When war came, the RAAF wanted its supply depots well inland, out of reach of carrier-borne aircraft. Sites across inland NSW were surveyed in February 1942, and in April Dubbo was chosen. The RAAF Stores Depot in Cobra Street was built between 1940 and 1943. It was one of ten RAAF stores depots in Australia and one of only two in NSW, and it carried on under various names until 1995. In the 1930s Depression that same ground had been "Bagtown", where families camped in makeshift tents. The land that later became the zoo was also an army camp during the war.

The wrought iron gates of the Memorial Park, Dubbo, each with the Rising Sun badge
The wrought iron gates of the Memorial Park, Dubbo, each with the Rising Sun badge. Doug butler, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Jacarandas in flower along the avenue of the Memorial Park, Dubbo
Jacarandas in flower along the avenue of the Memorial Park, Dubbo. Doug butler, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

A City, 1966

Dubbo was officially proclaimed a city in 1966, the same year the gaol closed. The town's older streets still show its story: the Victorian courthouse, the Lands Office clad in timber and corrugated iron, the 1881 station, red-brick California bungalows and Victorian terraces around Darling Street.

The Dubbo swimming pool, undated photo from State Records NSW
The Dubbo swimming pool, undated photo from State Records NSW. State Records NSW (Photographic Collection from Australia), CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Macquarie Street, the main street of Dubbo, 2017
Macquarie Street, the main street of Dubbo, 2017. Bahnfrend, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Western Plains Zoo, 1977

In the late 1960s plans were drawn up for a big plains zoo to go with Sydney's Taronga, a place where large grazing animals could breed and roam in the open. The old wartime army camp outside Dubbo was turned into a 300-hectare zoo of bush and irrigated grassland, and Western Plains Zoo opened on 28 February 1977. Its Wikipedia article says it opened with 35 different animals from six countries and was the first new zoo built in Australia in 60 years. There are no fences in sight, just hidden moats. Today it's Taronga Western Plains Zoo, known for its rhinos and breeding programs for endangered species. Its story ties back to Sydney's old Moore Park zoo and to Taronga, which I've written about separately.

Taronga Western Plains Zoo, 2020
Taronga Western Plains Zoo, 2020. Maksym Kozlenko, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The entrance to Western Plains Zoo
The entrance to Western Plains Zoo. Ché Lydia Xyang, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The giraffe enclosure at Western Plains Zoo
The giraffe enclosure at Western Plains Zoo. Ché Lydia Xyang, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Dubbo Today

At the 2021 Census Dubbo had 43,516 people, the largest centre in the Orana region, and 15.6 per cent of residents were Aboriginal or Torres Strait Islander. It sits where the Newell, Mitchell and Golden highways cross. It's the big shopping, hospital and freight town for much of the west, with a Charles Sturt University campus, a Royal Flying Doctor Service base at the airport, and Fletcher International Exports as its largest private employer.

Dubbo town centre, 2020
Dubbo town centre, 2020. Maksym Kozlenko, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Timeline

  • 40,000+ years ago: Evidence of Wiradjuri habitation in the Dubbo area.
  • 1812–13: George Evans reaches the upper Macquarie and names it after Governor Macquarie.
  • 1818: John Oxley comes down the Macquarie and reports on the Dubbo country.
  • c.1832: Robert Dulhunty takes up the land he calls "Dubbo" (some sources say 1828).
  • 1837: Dulhunty takes out a licence for Dubbo Station.
  • c.1840–42: John Maughan builds Dundullimal.
  • 1847–48: Constable's residence, then a slab courthouse and lock-up, are built.
  • 1848: Storekeeper J. E. Serisier petitions for a sale of town allotments.
  • November 1849: Dubbo is gazetted as a village.
  • 1850: First land sales.
  • 30 December 1853: Robert Dulhunty dies.
  • 1867: First bank opens.
  • 1871: New stone lock-up built, the start of Dubbo Gaol.
  • 1872: Dubbo proclaimed a municipality, population 850.
  • 1 February 1881: The railway from Wellington formally opens.
  • 1887: The present courthouse is built and the gaol is believed to have been officially opened.
  • 2 October 1900: Jacky Underwood is tried at Dubbo.
  • 14 January 1901: Underwood is hanged at Dubbo Gaol.
  • May 1925: The Molong to Dubbo line is completed.
  • April 1942: Dubbo is chosen for an RAAF stores depot.
  • 1955: Serious flooding of the Macquarie.
  • 1966: Dubbo becomes a city, and the gaol closes.
  • 1974: Old Dubbo Gaol reopens as a tourist attraction.
  • 28 February 1977: Western Plains Zoo opens.
  • 1979: Heavy flooding along the river.
  • 2002 and 2004: Dundullimal and the gaol are added to the State Heritage Register.

Where the Sources Disagree

  • When Dulhunty arrived: Wikipedia's Dubbo article says Dubbo Station was "established in 1828" and occupied from the early 1830s. Wikipedia's Robert Dulhunty article puts his trek at sometime between 1829 and 1833, and says he probably took up the land in 1832.
  • Dundullimal's date and builder: The Dubbo article says it was built "around 1840" by "John Maugham". The Dundullimal Homestead article, drawing on the heritage listing, says "c. 1842" by "John Maughan".
  • The name "Dubbo": Sources give "red soil", "head covering", and the name of an old Wiradjuri man. None can be proved, because Dulhunty left no clear record.
  • When the gaol began: The heritage record treats the 1871 stone lock-up as the start of Dubbo Gaol, but the gaol is "believed" to have been officially opened in 1887. The same record says it was built "from 1847 to 1945", counting the first lock-up and the last additions.
  • Gold and growth: Wikipedia credits "the Victorian gold rush of the 1860s" for Dubbo's growth. The main Victorian rush began in the 1850s, so the 1860s trade may have had more to do with the New South Wales goldfields. I couldn't settle this from the sources I fetched.

My Earlier Posts

Sources

  • Wikipedia, "Dubbo" – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dubbo
  • Wikipedia, "Old Dubbo Gaol" (based on the NSW State Heritage Register listing) – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_Dubbo_Gaol
  • Wikipedia, "Dundullimal Homestead" (based on the NSW State Heritage Register listing) – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dundullimal_Homestead
  • Wikipedia, "Robert Dulhunty" – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Dulhunty
  • Wikipedia, "Jimmy Governor" – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jimmy_Governor
  • Wikipedia, "Dubbo railway station" – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dubbo_railway_station
  • Wikipedia, "Macquarie River" (including Oxley's 1820 journal extract and the flood list) – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macquarie_River
  • Wikipedia, "Dubbo RAAF Stores Depot" – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dubbo_RAAF_Stores_Depot
  • Wikipedia, "Taronga Western Plains Zoo" – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taronga_Western_Plains_Zoo
  • Wikipedia, "Wiradjuri" – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiradjuri
  • Images: Wikimedia Commons, credited under each picture.